First trip to Negril - Travel Report - Day 4 - Moving over to the Coco La Palm

Day 4
Part 2

We decided to unpack our bags later and explore the grounds first.

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Coco La Palm is beautiful and in a different way than Grand Pineapple. Coco has white pristine curved bungalow-style structures covered with painted murals. Every room seemed to have balcony views and the pools surrounded by palm trees. I saw a lot more birds around us... no peacocks, but a lot of wildlife fluttered in the trees overhead. There was a lot more staff. They were all very professional but had large welcoming smiles.

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Everyone that walked by us on the pathway seemed happy. Children darted by us laughing with their parents following behind with a relaxed swagger. There were definitely more families here. Grand Pineapple had a larger amount of European guests. This hotel had a lot more American and Canadian guests. That was my first observation.

We headed over to the bar area and slid down into the seats to see the menu. All the prices were very reasonable and it was happy hour. (2 for 1 drinks!)

We ordered two Dirty Bananas from the bartender named Vernon.

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He was really good at what he did with a witty sense of humor. I noticed all the guests were calling him by name “Hey Vernon! Another round of Red Stripes please” There was a lot of activity and groups of people clustered together talking.

For a moment we were sitting by ourselves and I missed our British friends at the Grand Pineapple. It's hard moving over to a new hotel especially after making friends there. It's like starting all over again as newbies.

We weren't alone for long,

“First day at the Coco la Palm?” A friendly guy sitting with his wife asked.

“Yeah, we just arrived an hour ago, but we've been in Jamaica for 3 days so far...” I said

We found out that he had just arrived earlier that day too and he flew in from Canada. He comes to visit CCLP every year.

He and his wife introduced us to his other friends from Canada that were sitting at the bar across from us. They all waved to us. A cool bunch of people.

We chatted for a while and ordered another round of Dirty Bananas. They were delicious! Vernon knows how to make a killer Dirty Banana. I felt ourselves relaxing into our new environment. We were beginning to feel at home. Coco has a subtle charm to it, It's very chill and laid back with a touch of luxury mixed in.

The sun was beginning to set, but at the same time dark ominous storm clouds were moving in overhead. It was an oddly beautiful combination.

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The threatening skies mixed with warmth of the setting sun. It was an utterly unique sunset..the wind picked up and swirled around us. We stood on the shore and took it all in.


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Sunsets in Jamaica are bittersweet. They're beautiful but represent the end of another day. It's a time to reflect and contemplate life. It means another perfect 24 hours in Negril has already passed and a feeling of gratefulness for being there washes over you. It's a calm period where everyone comes out from where ever they were previously and observes the setting sun on the beach.. sometimes in silence.. holding hands with each other or taking snapshots.


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The beach in front of Coco la Palm is massive the expansive stretch of water lapped in front of us invitingly. I couldn't wait to experience it during the day.


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When the sun disappeared entirely over the horizon we head over to the hotel Restaurant for dinner. I planned on having dinner in other places in Negil during our stay but we figured we'd check out the restaurant there first. It was getting dark and starting to rain.

I ordered the shrimp scampi and Markus had a chicken dish. The wait was pretty long. I finished off the bread appetizer and we waited another 45 minutes.

In the meantime, a kitten rubbed up against Markus's leg. He leaned down and gave it a piece of bread.

“He's going to tell his friends you know..”I warned.

Sure enough, Markus was surrounded by kitties within minutes. He was like “the Cat whisperer”, they nestled below his chair waiting for him to drop some more and weaved around his legs. They were all so tiny and their small meows were adorable. I was worried that the staff would yell at us and shoo them away but they didn't seem to mind.

The kittens reminded me of our own cats waiting for us at home and for a moment I missed them.

When our dinner arrived, it was absolutely delicious and we devoured it. We sat there content with full stomachs. Rain was pouring down but I didn't mind. we were dry and warm under the cover of a big umbrella. We could see the darkening beach in the distance and hear the gentle waves.

Our new Canadian friends were sitting at a table behind us and waved. A band started to play. There was a beach party tonight at the Coco La Palm despite the rain. I probably could have easily sat there all night drinking dirty banana's and listening to the live music all night.

But then I remembered “The English Rose” and Greenie's live band playing at 8:00. They were putting on a special show for us and our British friends from the Grand Pineapple would be waiting.

It was 7:55!!.

“lets get our check, we have to go!” I said urgently. It's easy to get caught up in a moment in Negril and lose track of time.

Our check arrived and it made us realize that we would have to eat elsewhere for the rest of our stay to remain within our budget but it was nice enjoying the hotel restaurant for one night.

Markus signed the bill with our room number and we dashed off back to our hotel to get changed and ready to head off for our night out...

I'll let Markus take it from here tomorrow...

Gotta get me some of that! Going once a year for 2 weeks is just is not enough! These trip reports get my mojo going and I start planning and more like conniving on how can I get back sooner. Oh well, at least this makes for a good start to another day back here.

Just love getting up in the morning and seeing more of your trip report. I had to put my trip on hold this year, so I really appreciate it. Clarity and Markus, I know you mentioned somewhere, and hate to repeat the question, but what kind of camera are you using? Your photos are stunning.

the dirty banana on the right looks bigger ... not fair!

love it!

ahh. so nice to hear more and escape into your photos and story. It relaxes me and makes me melt, just like a JA sunset. I am thinking about doing coco for a future trip--I like staying on the beach and have tried many spots but always like checking out a new place. Plus their prices are good and no one has ever had anything negative to say about the place--only glowing reviews.

Clarity,

I'm sitting in my room at CCLP right now enjoying your trip report. Our first time staying here was in February, and on that trip we were upgraded to that same room. It was beautiful. I can absolutely relate to the excitement of been given that luxury. We were like little kids in Disney when we saw our room. We have a baby, so we were a little concerned about the steps and balcony, but we were not going to complain! Thanks for taking me back!

Loving this will be at Coco in 27 days

Encore just for you guys!

Attachment 1516

Is it over? Did I miss the end?

No, Clarity is just still on Jamaica time ..... Clarity, are you out there????

Thanks gerry - I been searchin', so long searchin' :-)

You will love Coco La Palm. My favorite place on the beach. Best Dirty Banana around. Be sure to have the Coco Melt for lunch one day. Walking the beach is just a wonderful experience as well... enjoy!

You guys crack me up! ;) Yes I'm still here and you didn't miss the end. haha.. Day 4 isn't even finished yet. You know we're slow as snails.

Right now I'm just waiting on Hubby-Man. We've been tag-teaming our way through this trip report and He's next up to the bat.

He's been really busy with a huge new programming job though and I was in New York for a while visiting my family.

I'll give him a poke.
Update coming soon :o

I'm on pins and needles anticipating! :)

I'm thinking about booking Coco this trip, can't wait to hear the rest!!! :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Clarity

You guys crack me up! ;)
I'll give him a poke.
Update coming soon :o

---

Can you make it a quickie poke? lol

Lol jx2

Next page

I'm sorry it's taking so long to finish this trip report. After a while regular life catches up with you. Your friends don't want to hear anymore, that you are “supposedly” sitting home writing about your last vacation and you have to pass up a night on the town. Eventually you have to fit other things in. Then it keeps getting harder to remember what really happened and how it made you feel, so getting to the end of the report is a really hard.

Well, so I will try my best for another installment. But it might be slightly faded.

The night in question was however one of the most memorable of any vacation.

Earlier someone had predicted: “Rain will fall.”and so it had. It was a quick shower that dumped a half an inch of water in minutes. The wild life had an instantaneous response to the event. The birds seemed to sing louder and there was more of them. Swifts darted through the air in swarms so big, they looked like a cloud of insects in the sky. Everywhere life seemed to be teaming with activity and excitement.

When the short showers, that had sprayed the balcony every few minutes, grew less frequent, we hurried over to the bar. The bartender Vernon, was a tall guy with serious skills. We tried out the Dirty Bananas and observed the beautiful sunset.

The rain began to pour again during dinner. It's easy to forget the time on vacation , where it seems less of a real institution than on a working day. With only five minutes left before we were supposed to be at the English Rose, we stormed into the lobby to ask to have a cab called.

Two minutes later we meet cab driver Tall Man, as he pulls up in his van to pick us up. He never heard of the English rose before, so we scanned the side of the road in the half dark evening light, looking for a familiar fence as we speed down Norman-Manley. Finally the familiar vegetarian restaurant next door comes into view.

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Our British friends are already on sight. Big hello's, hugs and ado. We are also introduced to a new member of our posse, an elderly British farmer, who as I later learn, has traveled the world more than anyone I know - mostly in pursuit of romantic services, he proclaimed, with some pride in his libido.

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The music is good (still from the stereo) and the beers are tasty. The rain is still off and on and so we shuffle back and forth from the outdoor tables to the crowded interior of the shack. Greeny fidgets with a cell-phone and keeps running to the street to peer southwards. “My band members come soon. They play at Ricks Cafe. They will be here soon! They won't let me down”, he ensures us, then he sticks a hand out and gives a worried look to the sky. One of his steel drums are outside under a tarp, the other one is sheltered in the shack.

We are all eager to see Ikey at this point, mostly because he had found a firm place in our hearts, when we first met him. But Daisy had also wanted to buy a Bob Marley shirt from him. She knew he had to advance the money to get it for her and the whole day it had weighed on her conscience. So we asked Greeny to get him.

Oh what a joy when he came around the corner. We hugged and pointed at the sky and said: 'Oh what a night!!' and 'How beautiful!' and such. He had been the middle of cooking dinner so he asked us back to his house.

It was really dark by now. Ikey walked ahead of us dramatically kicking every stone or stick out of the way turning around every few feet making sure no-one had tripped.

His shack has no lock, just a few bricks with wooden boards across standing in for a staircase. Inside is not much to protect. Basically a sink, a fridge, a wooden crate for a seat, a stove and a few mostly empty shelves. There is a photo in a frames, but this man is certainly not burden down by earthly possessions.

From behind a curtain sectioning off an area for storage, he pulled out two really tasteful and well designed Bob Marley shirts to choose from. The image on the front is in Color, the one in the back black and white.

Daisy was ecstatic and chose one immediately. She handed Ikey quite a bit more than he had ask for the merchandise, which made Ikey look extremely concerned. So he disappeared behind his curtain again and reappeared with three beautiful necklaces, that looked outside our price range.

“Which one do you like?”, he asked. Daisy let them nervously glide through her hands but can't make up her mind. Finally Ikey says: “This is the best one.” He separates a beautiful green gem necklace from the bunch and holds it to her neck. “This is my present for you! No money, please don't give me more money!” Daisy tries to protest, but to no avail. Damn it is really hard to do something for Ikey without him doing something back for you right away.

Ikeys stew was beginning to rattle the lid and we could see he was eager to get back to his cooking, without an audience. So we thank him and he promises to join us later.

Outside the Britts are in a jolly mood, but almost ready to leave. Finally a car pulled up and Greeny let out a deep sigh. “See, I told you they would come!”

A seriously exhausted looking bass player, drummer and guitarist exit the vehicle, dragging out a whole truck load of equipment with them. The rain is graciously letting up in time. The new arrivals take a smoke-break and a beer first, before they set up the whole big jumble of equipment.

As they were setting up behind him, while the slightest drizzle was still falling from the sky, Greeny's drum sticks tentatively tried out the steel. It sounded somewhat out of tune, but as the sounds mixed and began to melt together - joined by first the snare and bass drum, then by the bass and finally the guitar - tuning no longer seemed to have any meaning. Greeny's touch was so precise, his control over the instrument so fantastic, that he pulled at your soul with the rising and falling of the notes of this first slow tempo song.

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The tiny crowed applauded, me up front with special enthusiasm. The band did not wait for the crowds reaction to taper and transitioned straight in to the next hi-tempo number. I am not sure which song it was. I heard it before and it wasn't reggae either, but rather a hippie-era Rock song. I was amazed at the range of styles these four guys with only half their equipment could tickle out of their instruments.


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Behind the wire mesh fence, a few people who had been on their way down Norman-Manley stopped, and peer in through the wire, amazed at the unexpected on-goings. One by one they dared to round the fence and our little crowd at the English Rose was slowly growing in number.

Ikey too seemed to have finished with his stew and appeared from the dark backyard, dancing and JB in hand.

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The new additions to our group included two guys from Germany, Andreas and Klaus. Daisy waved me over, excited to have produced some fellow Country men of mine.

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This is a typical situation and a probably already a well known fact, yet to advise all readers: It can be generalized that the one thing, that is least exciting to a German abroad …. is another German! We already know each other and the reason that we are not in Germany is to escape our own boring stink.:p So while you are free to introduce any German to any other German with out having to expect a horrible disaster, you should also not expect too much excitement from the encounter either.

These guys were really sweet though. They seemed to have taken a very off-road approach to their Jamaica travel and had interesting stories to tell, so it was not altogether unpleasant.

A friendly Jamaican man and his young daughter had also joined us. The father was going from person to person showing his kid asking everyone, if she wasn't the prettiest thing in the world. First I was a little put off by that, but it really seemed utterly harmless, so I finally took it at face value. He was just genuinely a proud father!

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Daisy in the meantime was running around showing everyone the T-shirt she had bought from Ikey. At that Ikey pulled me away from the crowd and pointed to her. He had tears in his eyes as he pointed out:”Look! She is helping me. She is trying for others to buy my T-shirts! One-Love man, One-Love!” He was buzzed from his JB which intensifies emotions, none-the-less I was really touched by how small a gesture, which could be interpreted in more than one way, could stir him so deeply.

The crowd grew constantly or rather, it was a coming and going. Two ladies from Belgium where in a deep discussion with Daisy when I found her again. Next to them was a young Jamaican fellow dressed in the latest fashion and laden with a golden chain. He was short but very handsome and gave off an air of someone you ought to pay attention to.

He zoned in on the Belgium girls, particularly the blond one, who towered above him by a good two heads. They made a funny picture together and his flirtatious advances were so exaggerated that they were obviously full of jest. The girl, flattered at the advance and the three or four proposals for marriage, took it semi-serious and was not 100% sure how to react. So she flung questions at him like: “Who will bring home the bacon?”, “Who will take care of the kids” or “Will you be the one taking out the garbage?” which he answered with the most comical slew of responses, indicating that his job was to make her happy in bed and that's that.

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Later he told me that really he was working very very hard in several jobs and considered his diverse talents, ranging from plumber to sous-chef, as his greatest assets over his libido. He was also far older than any of us had guessed, which he proved by producing his picture ID. He was also networking like a whirlwind. Unfortunately I lost the piece of paper with his cousins phone-number, through which I was to contact him until he had more suitable means of communication. There are so many reason to come back to Negril. :)

The whole time Greeny and his friends had been playing. Several times Greeny's ability to create crescendos and control the volume and character of the notes pounded out of the two steel barrels had amazed me so much, that I stopped mid-sentence to listen.

Finally it was over. The band and the Britts were tired. The Germans had to get up early the next morning to meet with some Rasta-Man in the mountains. So we sipped our last beers and said our good-byes. We hugged Greeny and Ikey tightly. It was an amazing feeling of connection that had formed in our two encounters time. If we lived in Negril, I have no doubt, we would be the best of friends.

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Daisy and Greeny

Despite the dulling effect of the alcohol it really hurt, when we turned around the corner and began to march down Norman Manley boulevard.

We sadly left our British friends at our old abode. Daisy by this time had a solid second wind under her wings and pulled me towards the crowded entrance of Alfreds. Cigarette vendors and cab driver immediately swarmed in on us, again indicating that this must be the place to be. Despite us obviously having already arrived at our destination they would not let up and offered to drive us to our Hotel for free...no idea how that makes sense???

Finally we reached a heavy iron gate, massive enough to protect a prison or Langley. To aggravate concern the cashier was sitting behind a massive window of bullet proof glass.

When we handed over our ten dollars cover charge and passed beyond the fence, with the cab drivers and cigarette vendors reaching through the bars of the fence as if to grab us, I felt like I was crossing the border between East Germany to West Germany. What's up with that? ...Maybe I was just very drunk.

50 yards further, passed several buildings containing lavatories and stuff, Alfred was pumping with bright light and grinding bodies. An amazing amalgamation of people from all over the world was pooled together here. Styles ranged from soulful-hippie to Jersey shore tough guys. Conservatively dressed people, clad as if they just hopped off a luxury cruise liner, mingled with couples, that would would have won any Pimps and Ho's costume competition in the attire presented.

The large stage with a singer is raised from the beach. Over the surrounding fence one could see cigarette vendors balancing on what-ever it was they used to prop themselves up over the obstacle. Clear bags on their heads showed their merchandise and they kept haphazardly waving at people to come over, somewhat like half animated anemones in the current, obviously tired from a long days work already. One of the vendors had flickering christmas lights attached to his bag of cigarettes. He emerged slowly over the fence as though he was a floating alien spaceship beckoning smokers to come to him.

We stripped our shoes off our feet and threw them on the pile next to the stage, trusting they could be found again. When the next song came on, it was Berres Hammond “I feel Good”. We looked at each other in disbelief. Then the urge to swing the hips became irresistible. We slowly approached each other and finally fell into a melted oneness to the sound of the music. Everything else disappeared and I can say with some confidence that I was the most contented and happy human being on this planet at that moment. It was like getting married all over again. I hope she felt the same :).

“I feel good” was the last song in the bands set. The DJ put on some horrific dance-floor-techno and the dancing crowd moved all at once towards the bar. Only the Jersey-shore looking dudes and dudettes found this the new music more enticing and replaced the dancers on the beach with a grunting, fist-pumping and mechanically grinding mob.

At the bar, two bartenders strained to fill the orders. A white-haired lady with a serious expression, who appeared have been installed as a human register, taking down every transaction in a large ledger, was making change for the servers. We ordered two red stripes, whipping out our funds save the cab fair and sat down at a table on the beach.

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To the left of us a group of morbidly overweight girls were hitting on a muscular Jamaican. The the central girls seat of her jeans read “booty” while the section of her shirt covering her breasts proclaimed “delicious”. While she ground the air in front of his face, her girlfriends where cheering the poor man on to “Slap that Booty!”, which he did a few times with some bewilderment more then enthusiasm.

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Lacking funds for another beer we finally called it a night and made for the exit.

On the way out a nice young fellow offered us his taxi service, which we unwittingly excepted.

Once we passed the gate we realized our mistake, as the cab drivers from earlier swarmed all around us. The situation got heated and there was a lot of yelling and botheration. Especially the guy who had offered to drive us for free earlier was getting aggravated and claimed that we had promised to be his patrons (for free at that). The whole scene didn't make any sense and we were very happy to finally managed to squeeze by and into the SUV of the our young cab driver, who said in disbelief: “That ridiculous man acts, as if you married to him.”

IN minutes we were at the CCLP and happily passed by the security guard to our room.


The fun night did not end here, we went back out.. but It's getting late. I will leave that for another night to write about.

Love! Thanks for still reading.

And Sweetness, I heard you are going for your next reach very soon. You know what to do!: Have an Amazing time and if you visit the English Rose, Please Get us Greeny's mailing address :).

good stuff. I can so picture that scene in front of Alfreds ..... how many more days at CoCo at this point?

Thanks!
2 more days at the CCLP to go! believe it or not, We're almost finished with our trip report! :)

Alfreds!!! Many years ago we stayed at Alfreds, in the room next to the stage that faces the beach through the wooden fencing. The story is too long to tell on this wonderful trip report, but enough to say that the first night the band started up, everything in our room vibrated that much, we had to move the breakables onto the bed before we went out. The only way we could talk to each other was to put mouth to ear and scream!!!! We only made it four nights and had to re-locate, but the memory lingers. Loving your work Hubby-man, there is as much colour in your word as there is in your photo's.

Excellent! once again, Hubbyman. I love your words...especially "botheration" Describes that situation at Alfreds perfectly.
I know it's hard to keep the inspiration to write this long after your trip, and it is truly appreciated.

Really great stuff...8 days and a wake up until Coco La Palm...I can't wait!

Thanks Hubby-man!
Even after your disclaimer of time, reality of life and faded memories, your report picked me right back up and I felt as if no time had even passed since the last installment!
We are here, no worries mon.....take your time
We will still love every minute of your words, stories, pictures and emotions
It just amazes me how you capture exactly what I remember some of these experiences being like for me my first trip and that was 12 years ago!

Thanks as always for sharing this with us!

This trip report is priceless. I'm sad that there are only 2 days left. Your memory seems as fresh as day 1. Laughed out loud at the story/photo of the young Jamaican man and woman from Belgium. Thanks so much! Great start to my morning.

Wonderful! Your writing is a pleasure to read - you really should put your text together in a book with your photos. I know everybody is electronic these days but some things are nice to hold and enjoy. Glad that your first (and certainly not your last) trip to Jamaica was so wonderful. When you can, walk across the street from Coco La Palm and look for Jennifer James @ Green Leaf Cabins. That is a totally different experience but for me it was like having my own "little cottage in Negril." It is very affordable and down to earth. That place will always be home away from home. Even when I am not staying there, I still stop by to chat with the family. :D

Oh how I love your reports.....best ever......for real. Yep Marcus, I will be in rapture in just over a week and you can count on me stoppin in at the Rose to meet Greeney. I will get the name he prefers for mail. In Negril, there is not mail delivery. You have to "check" the postoffice to see if you have any mail in your name. And I will tell him to check in once in a while to see if he has any mail. Another option: If you want to write up something and email it to me, I would be glad to deliver along with maybe a pint of J&B as a gift? Private message me if I can do this for you guys - it would be my pleasure!!!!!!

Can't wait for future installments.....of your trip. Bless you both - we have all fallen in love w/you guys!

Oh I thought of another idea. If you want, I can print out some of your pictures like the one of Daisy and Greeny and give them to him too. Only with your permission of course. Of the band too....just let me know.

So Clarity - How is it that you have the two highest viewed posts on the Board?? Did you notice that?

Just like the Soprano's
No ending
Clever
Entertaining report
Enjoyed it
Time to move on
No disrspect

Negrilbound - actually there is an ending.

http://negril.com/forum/showthread.p...-day-in-Negril

Yesterday I posted my final update

I'm done.
It's over.

noooo!

I don't share Negrilbound's sentiments. I want it to go on and on. What about the late late night after getting back from Alfreds--going out again? And the day you left? oh I am crestfallen if that last post was really it.

"no offense" but WTF negrilbound? Seriously.....but whatver, I guess you are entitled to your opinion (even if you are the only one that has that opinion)

Clarity, please dont let the view of ONE person (clearly the minority) make you believe that ALL the rest of us are not still interested in your trip report....afterall that is basically why we are all here, to share our stories of Negril
And not only are you doing that, but yours is one of the best I have read and after 2 months you still have most (if not all) hanging on every word and still waiting for and wanting more.

Clarity, please keep writing, please keep sharing..... if a certain person is not interested, they dont have to click on it and read it....but they also shouldnt ruin it for everyone else who is interested, excited and waiting for more.

I am with irieworld....I could and would read this report forever if you kept writing it!