this is exactly what I needed this morning- thanks for the report!
Cant wait to hear about all of your castle adventures!
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this is exactly what I needed this morning- thanks for the report!
Cant wait to hear about all of your castle adventures!
just what the doctor ordered . . . thank you and more please!!
Great report Cherry! How can we NOT follow along after you quote the great Vince Lombardi? (I'm also glad you choose not to waste the beer......that's a sacrilege here in Wisconsin) ;)
hanging on every word Cherry!
Just wonderful. Sorry Sunshine on your Toronto munch mess, yuck. But the cure was waiting in Negril, I just bet!
Cherry, you are making my day, loved the landing, made me want one.
Great report!
As we pull the through the gates I don't quite know where to look first. Our bags are unloaded and arrangements for our next ride made with Kingsley. The gardener seemed to be doing double duty as porter. He hefted both our bags with so little effort it was like they were empty, rather than the 40 pounds each actually was. Up and up we went to the doors to our private paradise. Up once more and we were home.
We got the basic tour of the space, passed on our appreciation and in moments we were on our own. The windows in the Penthouse were all open, the breeze was blowing through. We could hear the sound of the surf all around us. We both kind of stood in the center of the room in a bit of a daze, just taking it all in.
I suggested that a sub might go along quite nicely with a bottle of Shamrock's liquid gold and we set about making that happen. We headed to the deck on the tower to sit back, relax and just take it all in.
Still riding high, we went exploring all the views from our 3 levels of decking. As magical as it was, the exhaustion of the past 24 hours was starting to set in. As sunset approached, we talked about how surreal if felt to be back in Negril. Our first sunset wasn't much to write about. Given the night/day we'd had, it somehow just fit.
Sunshine didn't make it that much past sunset, truth be told. I talked him into eating one of the banana breads from Juici Pattie. He'd had a whole bottle of Shamrock's juice at this point and I was hoping it would be just the restorative he needed. This was one of these nights were I am glad I insist on at least a queen size bed in our room (the penthouse is actually a king). Snuggling together is lovely 90% of the time. On the day after a nasty round of food poisoning, you kind of just want your own space.
Though it had been a long day and night and I was rather exhausted, I just wasn't ready settle down. The full moon had risen over the hills behind the castle not long after sunset and as the clouds cleared out it was like a giant night light in the sky.
Saturn (or maybe Jupiter?) was chasing the moon across the sky. I tried to capture the scene, but I was working from a point and shoot.
At one point I saw the wishing lanterns floating up from boardie Rinakim's wedding at CocoLaPalm.
It wasn't how we had planned our first night back in Negril, but I wasn't put out. Sunshine was a little worse for wear, but I was pretty confident it was a temporary setback. I was where I wanted to be and so was he and that was all that really mattered.
so sorry for Sunshine --- a good cup of chicken foot soup works wonders --- you don't have to eat the feet lol
You can have the next landing like that! We'd used up so much runway before the wheels hit the ground, I was starting to think we were going to have to head back up and come around for a second go, which of course would have been better than driving off the end into the bush.
cherry, you are a wonderful writer, feels like i was there alongside with you guys . . . the pics are stunning . . .
Love the pics! Glad you made it there!
I thoroughly enjoyed your last trip report and am now hanging on your every word on this one. You have a magnificent talent for story-telling. I have just over a month before I'll be on a plane headed to Negril and this report is helping the days go by. As each day passes, getting me one day closer to that big airplane ride in the sky, they get slower...and slower...and slower...:)
Wow! Your night time pictures are awesome! What an interesting perspective. And you were kinda participating in another boardies wedding too? Thats pretty cool. I bet they would love to see those pics.
Love it .. just what I need to help get me through the next 80 days!
I'm showing my hand! ;)
Great report, thank you
Chapter 4
“Sometimes I arrive just when God's ready to have someone click the shutter.”
― Ansel Adams
It was our first full day in Negril and I had set an alarm clock for 6:10 in the morning. No joke.
Am I only one who checks the moon tables before heading on vacation?
Well, I do and I had discovered that we were arriving just in time for the full moon and that it was due to set into the ocean pretty much right in front of the castle not long after sunrise. This is my inner geek showing, but I am sucker for astronomical events. I had on opportunity once (with a 3 hour drive) to witness a total solar eclipse. It is one of my Top 10 Most Magical Experiences ever. This wasn't quite that, but I fell in love with the idea of seeing the full moon come up in the evening and then witnessing it set into the sea with the sun rising behind us.
I had originally thought we might still be up to see this happen, but obviously our plans had changed. From the beginning, I was a bit doubtful as to whether or not I'd be able to get Sunshine out of bed, but I decided in advance not to be a pain about it if he opted to just sleep through.
Well as it turns out, there was a plus side to food poisoning. Having had a pretty early night, by the time the alarm went off, we were both actually already awake. We had only to step out our front door.
Each armed with camera we had a magical start to the day.
We headed up to the upper deck to see the sun crest over the top of the hills.
I spotted the Blue Mountain coffee being set out and Sunshine offered to bring us up mugs. He takes such good care of me.
To date, this is remains the only Jamaican sunrise I have witnessed. It was so very quiet. There weren't really any vehicles on the road and we couldn't really hear any sounds of the castle waking up, at least not over the sounds of the surf. It was bliss.
I managed to capture a panorama with both the sun and the moon. If you look closely on the far left, there is a rather phallic cloud pointing directly at the moon. It isn't much more that a spec, but it is there.
There is something really magical about the Penthouse. You just have so much space and it is all just for you. If you like to be alone, you can really do that here.
We eventually headed down to the courtyard for breakfast from Teddy's. We place and order for shrimp and eggs with peppers and banana rum pancakes, which we shared. Then we poured a bit more coffee and headed back up to the penthouse for a little reading and reflection.
Cherry, I just thought I'd let you know about a book, that I've read about five times {Good to take on the airplane} It's called "Walk Good, Travels to Negril Jamaica" by Roland Reimer. Go to Amazon, used or kindle etc. The writing I would say is similar to yours....details! details! Keep up the posts. It's turning into a highlight of my days! Farmer
Thank you for lovely reporting. Big up to the Castle as well for being so cool.
As I am now just less than 40 hours from boarding my plane your stories brought tears to me eyes! My husband is coming with me this year for his first trip, it's my 2nd trip...I haven't stopped telling him how glorious it is since I landed home last year. Negril really is the closest think I can compare heaven to. I already know I'll be up all night for the next day and a 1/2 and I'm OK with that!
Gracious! My bags are packed and darn near at the door! I cannot wait to wake up in paradise....
Breathtaking pictures!
Seems like the herbal meds and some love and attention fixed sunshine right up :)
Write on Cherry ! :)
~D~
Waiting patiently for more (fingers drumming...)
Around 2 o'clock, we decided we had been sufficiently lazy and that perhaps we might leave the castle grounds. I suggested we head over to PeeWee's to see if we might get some lunch. We were venturing out but we certainly weren't going far.
Walking up to the bar at PeeWee's it was completed deserted. There were sounds coming from the kitchen though, so we poked our heads in a said hello. I think it was Danny in the kitchen. He came out introduced himself and got us a pair of Stripes.
One of the things I told myself before we arrived in Negril was that I needed to be better at telling people what it was I wanted. Everything in Jamaica is no problem, as long as you know what it is you want. My impression from our first visit was that I was just confusing people when I was being vague. The 'What to do want?'/'Well what do have' dance just wasn't working.
We were hungry, so I asked if he were serving food. He paused briefly in contemplation. 'What do you want?' he asked.
"Something for lunch," I replied.
"Chicken?"
"Sure, with some rice and some veg maybe?"
"Okay, I can't cook for you right now, but I can get it no problem. I have a friend nearby who has a shop, he will bring it here"
I'll admit that wasn't how I'd expected this to go down, but I'd said what I wanted and he was sorting it out for me. I had a momentary concern about what this solution might cost. "Sounds, good but I don't want it to be too expensive."
"Is $10 each good?" Danny responded.
"Perfect."
So Danny pointed to the cooler with the Red Stripe and told us to help ourselves and just let him know how many we'd had. I can't even imagine what our local liquor inspector's reaction to that might be. Danny got on his phone and wandered back into the kitchen. So we sat back and just let it all soak in.
About 20 minutes later he walked back out and let us know our food was here and he needed that $20. No problem.
Our food delivered he ran back into the kitchen to get us real forks and knives. We got fried chicken with pineapple sauce, rice and peas and some cabbage and carrots. It was delicious. The portions were huge however and we came nowhere near finishing. We had no real use for the leftovers, so Danny asked if we might leave it with him for the local dogs. I am so glad he suggested it, because where I come from, you don't feed animals in the street. I just wouldn't have thought of it.
He asked if we smoked and we allowed as we did. He offered us up a lovely big sub and we just couldn't say no.
At some point it became clear why he couldn't cook us lunch. He was too busy cooking a meal for what I assumed was his family. We sat at the bar and watched 8 or 10 folks arrive and gather around one of the tables in the back. Danny served up the meal and joined in the festivities. We enjoyed our private bar and kept up a count of our Red Stripe consumption, but no one seemed very worried.
I am amazed by how well behaved the street dogs in Negril are. We'd gained a companion who seemed content to just have someone nearby while he had his afternoon nap.
Have I mentioned Sunshine works in lighting? He is pretty into it. I have become accustomed to the fact that everywhere we go, the first thing he notices is the lighting and if it is visible, the electrical setup. Negril is a gold-mine of not precisely to code and yet perfectly effective solutions. If you catch him staring up at the ceiling, he is probably checking out the lights. When Sandy was delivering a glancing blow to Negril last year, I showed him a few pictures from the board. The first thing he says? "Wow, they have striped the wires right out of that building; that is amazing!" He says nothing about the evidence of the wind, the menacing skies or the lack of people and furniture. He is far more curious about how to make the lighting hurricane ready.
So what was our first big winner in the cheap and cheerful lighting solutions category? The ubiquitous black bag used as a lamp shade. We decided it was probably practical and effective, if not precisely to code. It was nice to see a vintage Manitoba license plate on display as well.
As we were starting to feel the urge for an afternoon nap, Elvis arrived to mind the bar. We settled up our tab and wandered on back to the castle, with a stop at L&M Grocery first. I'd heard so much about this Sangsters Rum Cream that when I spotted a small bottle I just had to give it a try. A few supplies laid in we wandered back to our Penthouse.
It was Thursday, so we had plans to head to Canoe for the band and some dinner. The sunset was just too beautiful to leave though, so we got a bit of a late start. I just couldn't be torn away.
We got a ride from one of the castle handy, who was also driving one of the maids somewhere. She seemed pissed he was giving us a ride, but got a lot more cheerful when I gave him a $5 for his trouble. Not a red plate I know, but I figured he was a known commodity and it would be okay for such a short ride.
The webcast was hopping when we arrived. I admit that I was feeling a great deal of apprehension; Lisa was there with a big smile and hello and that certainly helped.
Sunshine still wasn't in top form, so we headed for table to get some food. We'd been talking (okay, mostly me taking and Sunshine listening) for months about having lion fish and onion rings at Canoe and there was no holding back. Having had a huge lunch, we decided just to share.
We needed some of that rum punch too. In hindsight, we perhaps might have started with something a bit kinder to Sunshine's insides, but that is why they call it hindsight. The punch went down a treat, so we had to have another. Once happy hour was done, I asked Sunshine to surprise me and he came back with something blue? I don't drink a lot of mixed drinks a home and this stuff was going straight to my head.
Another boardie who lives not 20 minutes away from us at home came up to say how much she had enjoyed my first trip report. The feedback was so kind. We chatted a bit about our plans and common ground back home. It was great to make the connection.
We enjoyed the band, our meal and just the overall vibe of Canoe. I love the sound of the west end road mixed with the surf on the beach, all not 50 feet apart. The moon was up and bright again as we headed out onto the road. There were no obvious taxis around, so we started wandering up the road.
It wasn't long before I hear a beep beep behind us. Up my arm goes and the car comes to a stop in front of us. I notice right away the white plate. Deep breath and remember, tell people what you want.
I wave him on and say "Sorry man, you aren't a red plate and I want a red plate." It was a decent looking vehicle, nice and clean inside, but that doesn't matter. I'll walk all the way home if a red plate doesn't come along.
Being the good entrepreneur, the driver replied back, "It's no problem, I'll give you a ride. It's all good."
I haven't stopped so he is idling along to keep up. I look in and smile, "When you get your red plate, you can give me a ride." He gives me a long stare and an accepting shrug, steps on the accelerator and he is gone up the road and around the bend.
Sunshine turns to me with a big grin, "That was awesome; you handled him like a pro!" I felt about 10 feet tall. I suspect for the more experienced among you that it might seem a bit silly. But I was out walking on the west end road after dark and we were getting it right.
We continue along. One of the bars along the is set up with big speakers and the whole block was vibrating with the sounds. It wasn't all that long and there is another beep beep behind us. The red plate comes to a stop. As I open the door I ask the driver, "Five dollars to Blue Cave Castle?" "Yamon."
All is quiet at the castle when we return. Sunshine was looking a bit pale. We'd not been back long when we determined that lion fish, onion rings and rum punch were not the ideal post food poisoning meal. After some quality time with this porcelain throne, he was pretty done for the night. We had picked up a couple of bulla at L&M. He ate half and headed for bed.
So again I found myself on my own with my thoughts and the sounds of the sea. I felt really bad that Sunshine was missing this time, but at the same time I didn't think it meant I couldn't have a good evening. I made myself a drink and a sub, found my book and settled with my thoughts into my chair perched high above the sea.
I'm a Negril addict also. It's the only place I've been to since I discovered it 3 years ago! Leaving tomorrow for 9 days!!!! Can't wait!!!
Chapter 5
“Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter, and those who matter don't mind.”
― Bernard M. Baruch
We woke up to another beautiful Negril morning. Sunshine fetched up some coffee and I broke out the rum cream, curious as to what all the fuss was about. I should say I really dislike Baileys and think it is one of the quickest ways to ruin a good cup of coffee. I was not optimistic. I do like flavor in my coffee, but never cream. First sip: hmmm, not bad. Second sip: OMG, where have you been all of my life?! I was hooked.
We had spoken with Teddy the day before and planned to have his special mushroom omelets for breakfast. On the lowest level of the Penthouse, there is a lovely section of the patio that is covered and shady. It is still nice and open so the breeze blows through and keeps it cool. We decided to have breakfast delivered. We wandered down to order everything up.
I find that I am struggling in my descriptions to do Blue Cave Castle justice. It is not a fancy place, but it is a really special place. You would never mistake it for the Hyatt or the Ritz. That day though, I felt as though all the money in the world couldn't have bought us a better morning.
We talked about what we might do for the day and decided we were kind of already there. We were booked on the pub crawl that afternoon, so we wanted to save our strength.
I know there are some special showers in Negril, but I want to add the shower on the lower level of the Penthouse to that list of awesome places. It isn't fancy at all, but it is also totally private, well except to anybody else staying with you in the penthouse. If you skip the shower curtain, you have a view across the patio to the crenellated walls and the sea beyond. I honestly don't remember the practical details. If the water pressure was bad, I don't recall and whatever temperature the water was it worked for me. It is all about that view.
It was rather windy the whole time we reigned in the castle. As I was getting ready to board the bus, I discovered that the wind was funneling just right through the windows on one side. Mother Nature's blow drier:
Sorry if some of these pictures are giant today. Photobucket is giving me real attitude today :mad:
This was our first Pub Crawl and I would suggest that our experience was not exactly the norm. As I recount our experience, keep in mind we are booked back the bus this year, so I am still a big fan.
Our pick up for the pub crawl was somewhere between 2:30 and 3:00. We were waiting at the gate when the bus arrived. There is no one on board. 'Great', I thought to myself, 'we are the first pick up, so I'll get to meet folks as they board.' I'm shy, so starting smaller and building up is kind of nice. We trundle on down the road and the bus stops in front of a small bar. Lenbert explains he dropped the rest of the crawl off already before picking us up and we should head in.
Oh crap. There goes the starting small plan. Instead I figure I'm going to be that weird person lurking on the fringes getting the strange 'why are you here' looks.
The first stop was Natural Mystic. I spotted another great Jamaican light fixture.
We ordered a round. They were out of cold Red Stripe, so I tried my first Red Stripe light. It offends my prairie sensibilities that I would pay more for something with less alcohol. It tasted fine but went down like water. I prefer a bit more bite to my brew. Then I indeed stood around rather awkwardly out behind the bar, which appeared to be where most of the crawl participants were gathered. You could certainly still see evidence of Sandy's recent enough passing in the detritus along the shore. At least I think that was the cause, I'm actually just guessing.
The call to load up the bus came and we got several strange looks when we boarded too. I was hoping the interloper feeling would fade at the next stop, which was I think Swordfish (nice bar upstairs, ice cream on the main floor?). It seemed we were earlier than expected as the bar was without bartender and bottle opener. We found the Stripe ourselves and luckily, one of the crawlers had a flip flop with integrated bottle opener. When the staff caught up we settled our tab.
There were stragglers loading up after at this stop. While we waited on the bus for everyone to get on board, one of the other crawlers remarked on the photo strewn poster board one group was carrying along, photographing it at each venue along the way. I didn't catch the whole story, but it seemed a great deal sadder than just a shout out to friend who couldn't make the trip.
Next up was No Limit. This was great for us because it was right in our neighborhood. At this point, there seemed to be only one other person on the crawl staying on the West End, so on that score we were a bit of a novelty. It was good to be able to point and say, "See, right there; that is where we are staying." For most that proved enlightening. I found myself at one point a little amazed when I was asked if there was much to do on the West End and where did we eat. I saved the snarky response for my inside voice, but seriously, where had she been for the last hour?
Three stops in and most everyone on the bus still seemed pretty sober and to my surprise there was not a single sub in sight. At one point Lenbert came in with a big green parrot. Don't get me wrong, I love birds. My grandfather's version of easy listening was sitting in his rocking chair relaxing to recordings of bird calls. Some families have bibles; mine has a birding reference book with three generations of 'Spotted On' notes. I just don't love birds in enclosed spaces and I most certainly don't want them using me for a perch. The bird made no menacing moves in my direction and all was well.
Back on the bus and down the road to Xtabi. I was really excited for this stop as it was on my must check out list for the trip.
Some of you may recall a certain 'gurly girl' and 'real men' photo contest on the board. It involved replicating one of the boardies avatar shots. Sunshine had no knowledge of any of this tomfoolery. I rather innocently asked him to head into the opening so I could get a picture. His wardrobe is a little off, but otherwise I think he nailed it.
I will say proceed with caution, it slippery down there. Really cool spot. We will be back.
Back on the bus, we head to Bella Donna. Lenbert jumps out and after a bit of back and forth, the big gates open and the bus pulls right into the yard. It seemed to me the original architect of the space was going for a real Mediterranean feel with a big courtyard and open archways to the covered spaces along its perimeter. There was a restaurant on one side and bar along the next.
The pizza was in the oven, so we were certainly expected. There weren't really any cold beverages, which was a bit of a shame. There was the most adorable little puppy dashing around in the yard, which immediately captured almost everyone's attention. You know how puppies can be; they will bound around frenetically to everyone who will give them attention.
After a few minutes an older women comes hurrying out. "Don't touch that dog, he has mange!" she practically shouts. A little late, given at least half the bus has already shown the little guy some love. I have to admit, I didn't really know what mange was, but I am pretty darn sure I didn't want it.
She explained he was being treated for it, but that we now all needed to wash. So in she goes for soap and we all form a line at the cold water spigot coming out of the wall. As we each got to the front of the line we were issued a squirt of dish soap and a chance to wash up. The poor puppy couldn't quite understand why all the love had turned into a whole lot of 'Shoo, go away.'
Now that we are hopefully disinfected, out comes the pizza. Despite having washed up, I wasn't really that hungry anymore. We still each got a slice to spread our (relative) wealth around. Lenbert hurried us back on the bus to head for our next spot, where we would see the sunset. He needed to hurry us along or there wouldn't be a sunset to see.
Sir D's Lookout/Love Nest was up next. Now if you are counting, we are at stop number six and the party bus hasn't really been that much of a party, at least from our perspective. We have certainly had some nice conversations but I wouldn't have really called it a party bus. Now it is sunset, I am weary and want a sub. Sunshine and I had come prepared with our own subs to share, not really expecting we'd be the only ones. We headed out to the farthest end of the deck so as not to be in anyone's face about it and sparked one up.
Talk about a polarizing maneuver. As the sun slowly sank into the sea and the gentle scent of sub caught the air I hear a rather loud voice proclaim, "Well it's just never the ones you expect, is it."
I did not turn around, so I don't know who said it. I don't actually care. What I do know is that without missing a beat, I loudly exclaimed, "Welcome to Jamaica!"
Turns out the group had a number of hungry members and we proceeded to make a few more new friends at what had instantly become the smoking end of the deck. I was disappointed that there were a couple of people we'd had some good conversation with earlier who were no longer interested in relating with us at all. I really felt like we were getting the cold shoulder and I found it almost hurtful. Even almost a year later, I still fundamentally don't understand how such a small thing would warrant such a strong reaction.
One love, people, one love.
It was a beautiful sunset and nothing could spoil that.
As the color began to deepen in the sky, we loaded back on the bus and headed for a quick drive around the lighthouse. Nothing was open so we continued on our way. I wish we had stopped to take a few photos, as the color in the sky was the most vibrant we saw all trip.
Our final stop was the Seastar Inn. I was excited to meet Chris at Seastar, as we are from the same town. I'm always happier going to a new place for the second time and we were looking forward to being back the next night for the Luciano show. This visit would make it familiar territory for the much larger gathering the next night. That is one less thing for me to worry about.
Not long after we arrived a sub the size of a baby's arm appeared and started making the rounds. Just like that everything was all irie.
We were talking up the show the next night like crazy to the other crawlers. There was a solo traveler on our trip that Sunshine and I dubbed Random Bob. It was his first visit to Negril, he'd been encouraged to go by a friend and when Idle Awhile was booked up he had booked Hide Awhile. Though he did say it was a beautiful property, I think he was finding it a bit more remote than he had bargained for. Though I am certainly not an expert, Negril.com makes me sound like one sometimes, so we were helping his itinerary out as best as we could.
The pub crawl was finally at an end and we loaded back up on the bus for one last ride. I asked Lenbert to drop us off at Ciao! on the way down the road, as we were both pretty ready for some food.
Despite the fact that it had been a pretty tame crawl, we were neither of us what you would call sober. We found our way into Ciao and it was pretty much deserted. We were shown upstairs to a table on the balcony and there is literally only one other couple in the place and the way we were seated, we couldn't really see each other. It was probably all for the best, as we had a bit of a case of the sillies. I know we both had pizza and that it was really good.
The setting was pretty awesome; I'd go back for sure. I don't know what the inside would be like if it was busy, but the balcony along the street would be great even if it was packed.
When we arrived back at the castle, a party was in full swing. It was not a surprise, as Teddy had invited us earlier to the party as it was his birthday. On another day I might have joined in, but I'd had enough making new friends for one day. It was also our last night in the castle and really Sunshine's first, as he'd been in recovery mode to this point. I'll say the fierce sound system going downstairs was a great addition to the party upstairs. We didn't last as long as they did. When we finally called it a night, I drifted off to sleep to thumping of the base rather than the crashing of the waves and it too was good.
Tomorrow would be moving day #1.
I remember the puppy! We used to raise pigs here on the farm, so we remember what mange was! The song Bella Donna sang was her "special" version of "Just a Gigolo" ??? I've got it on video. Your picture of you at Natural Mystic with the Red Stripe light ....that's me in the background with the Jamaican flag tank top! Thank God, I wasn't doing something stupid! Go to your profile section for a message. Can't wait for the next installment! Farmer