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I took a route bike one time with another local girl. I had my arms wrapped so tight around my driver where as my local friend just held on to the back. I must admit my driver was young and handsome, that may be why I wrapped my body around his. LOL And he gave me his phone number. :-) Must not have minded this old gal clinging to him.
Christmas Eve in Negril. No, it’s not ‘twas the night before Christmas an’ no creature is stirring’ Nuh! EV’RYT’ING IS STIRRIN’!
Yes, very busy all around town. Crazy shopping going on, people buying up fruit cake by the pound and sorrel juice by the gallon. Much, much, much traffic. People in the streets, music coming out from everywhere. Police all over in town, checkin’ t’ings ovah, nah tru.
It started yesterday. In our walk to the gym we passed a gospel group at the traffic circle. 7:30am mi friens! They were lined up on both sides of the road. The ladies were all dressed up, the men in long pants and dress shirts. The preacher calling them from the island in the middle of the circle, the gathered returning in full voice. We heard a few ‘Praise the Lord’s and pleas to ‘Lawd, save de yout from de evils of rap music’. ‘Save our children.’ Not the first concerns I’ve heard voiced in that regard.
Bea made up some sorrel drink from scratch. Put the sorrel and some ginger in water, boil it, set for 24hrs. Drain and strain, add some cane sugar. Chill. Then pour some in a glass and add white rum top taste. There you have a traditional Jamaican Christmas drink. Yah, mon.
Sorrel
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Today I am not posting much. We are relaxing, heading down to The German Bar later. Tomorrow it will be Christmas Dinner at Seastar.
Latah . . . .
Christmas Eve 2013, Negril Jamaica
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Have yourself a Merry Likkle Christmas
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Merry Christmas to you and Bea as well. Please keep the stories and pictures coming in the new year :)
Merry Christmas to you and Bea. Look forward to more reports when you can.
PS Pumping weights looks good on you! Look at those guns!!!!
Nice photos! Merry Christmas!
I'm enjoying the pics and reports. Merry Christmas!
Christmas Day. A cold front came through and the weather finally cooled down a little. The air was clear, all the humidity having been swept away by the front. A stiff, blustery wind raised whitecaps on the bay and white water was crashing over the reef. Not a great day for waters sports, but it was refreshingly cool – a Christmas blessing.
I stood atop the broad retaining wall in our yard and looked out over Long Bay to the green hills beyond the Great Morass. The cool breeze washed over me, I relished in the freshness of it. It was glorious.
The view from our yard, Christmas Day.
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We decided to go to the gym, since it was our regular day anyhow and we were planning on going to the Seastar buffet in the evening. (See the ying and yang there?) Center town was quiet – eerily so. We walked past the police station. I looked over and saw an unlikely group of young people, mid-twenties, walking slowly in a ragged file departing the building. I wondered; it’s 7:30am, these kids look a bit bedraggled, they’re quiet, not talking to each other at all, and a couple of the girls are dressed in going-out clothes. Hmmmmm? Then it struck hit me; they must have just been released from the drunk tank. The Christmas Eve celebrations around here were numerous and loud and continued way past the time that we had ‘settled our brains for a long winter’s nap.’
On our way to the gym we carried a bag of lollipops with us to hand out to the kids along the way. We passed a little group of eight of them, out playing in their yard. That’s something you see a lot of here – kids out playing in their yards. Laughing, yelling, playing tag, running around after each other – being kids. This little group spanned the ages from about three to pre-teen; all playing together. It was obvious that they were pretty excited about it being Christmas, so we figured; what the hey, let’s get them jacked-up even more on sugar. Actually, we cleared it with their moms, who were out raking in the yard.
One mom waved the kids over and they descended on Bea like a pack of hungry elves. It was funny to see her circled by a boisterous gaggle of eager children, all with their hands outstretched. After the gym, on the way back we passed the group of mothers, which had swelled to five or six in number. One of them asked Bea if she had any more sweets left, so she gave them the rest. They dug in and started to eat the candies themselves.
The banana truck, every Saturday morning.
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A well tended red ground yard in Redground.
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Inside our supermarket - it's open every day.
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WOW, I love that banana truck. Looks like a lovely Christmas day.
Christmas is done and gone. I feel like a new chapter is beginning, I have things to share . . .
This morning we walked back from the gym – the journey of 1,000 beeps. Things are getting back to normal, people out and about, everything is open. Since Christmas, there are noticeably more tourists in town; however, there seem to be fewer goats.
We had the gym to ourselves again so we cranked up the A/C and the music. Some of the lyrics this morning are interesting. Gone are the Christmas carols, we’re back to: ‘Down at the Ho-tel motel, take a dirty picture of me – CLICK!’ and ‘I’m drinking rum and Red Bull . . . blah, blah, blah.’ And it just goes downhill from there. Good beats though.
I wonder, why do people feel compelled to broadcast their tales of debauchery?
Exiting the super, cooled-down gym and walking out onto the hot parking lot it feels like entering a sauna; shocking. So much so that Bea lost her focus momentarily and stepped into a mound of fresh doggie poop. There’s a lot of it here, poop that is. Not just doggy poop, but horse poop and goat poop too. You gotta watch your step. It’s like walking around downtown Paris.
On the way back we checked out the new grocery store on the Sav road, right across from the bus park. It’s called Zhang’s Wang or something like that – brand new, clean organized and A/C’ed. Same items on the shelf as everywhere else, mind you.
Back on the sidewalk outside the store a guy approached me and started to ask all the questions, “Where you from . . . yadda, yadda.” He was looking for an angle that he could work me on. Then he asked, “Where you coming from mi friend?”
I kept walking but answered him, “The gym.”
“OK,” he said, looking back in that direction. “Where you staying?”
“Redground,” I replied.
“Redground?” He was a little taken aback.
I nod.
He considered this for a moment. “OK,” he said, then turned away.
I’ve learned that Redground has a bit of a bad reputation in Negril. Maybe this guy thinks I’m a rude bwoy from Redground.
Our walk back towards home takes us past Hammond’s bakery. I could go in there and buy stuff every day; they have such good pastries and cakes. As we approach the place I can hear the sweet likkle voices of the gizzadas in the display case inside calling out to me. “Kaaahuuuna . . . Kaaahuuna . . . come take us awaaaay!”
The aroma of freshly baked goods wafts tantalizingly from the open door. But, exerting great amounts of self-control, we don’t stop.
Further on in the little market we get bananas– $250J for nine sweet bananas. Then we get a dozen ackee – $150J, which is the going rate. Scallions and thyme are added to our bag. I’ll pick up some saltfish in the Hi Lo later. Ackee, saltfish and callaloo will be on the table tonight – I love it and I could eat it every day.
We stop in at the Burger King for tea and coffee and A/C – it’s getting hot and humid already. We had another torrential downpour last night just after sunset, there are puddles all around and the humidity is way up. We sit in our favorite booth, the one with the view.
This afternoon, we witness a shakedown in the Burger King . . . .
Yah mon, Likkle more . . .
Please, Sir - may I have more? She didn't like that little piece of bammy.
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Night Jasmine bush, its flowers are closed now, but at night - the fragrance that comes from this bush is sensual.
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The computer store - this store is actually a reclaimed refrigeration unit of an old truck, mounted up on concrete piers.
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enjoy so much reading your posts!...thank you!
I love that the computer store sells wata and bag juice, along with nitro.
My favorite trip report by the way...
Kahuna - A new follower to your posts. I am enjoying reading your posts, from my office in western Minnesnowda. Almost record cold December this year, and the forecast is not improving going into January. I long for those humid days on the beach. I would like to say "come soon", but have 49 days, 14 hours, 59 minutes, and a bit to wait............Feb 15. We have stayed at Point Village, and at Coco, but the last 3 years at Rooms Negril. We frequent Myrnas, the little bar (Sunnyside?), Ms. Sonias, Best of the West, and many of the other places that you mention in your writings. I long to be there for 90 nights!!! LOL! Last year Ms. Sonia had lost her lease, and was sort of squeezed in between two buildings, with not very much visibility. The building that she was asked to vacate, wasn't being used when we were there in Feb. What a shame. They did not renew her lease, but didn't intend to use the building. She said that business was down, and that she was barely "making it work". I felt so bad for her. I wonder how a person could help her succeed? We stay at Rooms, and the one thing they do not have is a good kitchen and bar. I wonder if they could maybe sell "Ms. Sonia" patties or something? I know the manager Ms. Grant. Maybe we can have a sit down when I am there this year. I would sure hate to not have Ms. Sonia patties as one of our lunch options! Such a sweat lady.
I will continue to live vicariously through your writings! Thank you! Respect. - KC
Hussyband, the selection available in the store is why I took the photo, but I forgot to point it out. Thanks. And thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Hussyband
kellc1 - I'm happy to bring a little warmth to Minnesota. :)
Back to the Burger King . . . . . .
I’ve read comments by people on this board disparaging the Burger King in Negril . . . . Like it doesn’t belong there and it’s a blight on the landscape. That’s probably because BK is a big multi-national and represents fast-food and all that is bad in the American fast-food culture, including the apparent exploitation of low-wage workers. OK, I get that. But the Negril BK is very, very Jamaican. Go in there sometime, check it out, you may be surprised. It is extremely popular with the residents of Negril. Besides, it’s the nearest thing to a coffee shop that you will find in the town center.
I sit in the booth and gaze out the window. A fisherman is cleaning his morning catch where the concrete pier meets the beach. Three magnificent frigate birds whirl above him, floating on their long, delicate wings and changing direction effortlessly with flicks of their forked tails. They swoop gracefully down to skim the water to pick up the scraps thrown out by the fisherman.
Beyond the fisherman the waters of Long Bay are calm and flat, reflecting an iron sky. It looks like rain. Booby Cay . . . magical, mysterious, enticing . . . with its tiny white slash of beach, lies off in the distance.
What a view! Yeah . . . and I’m sitting in a Burger King. Sometimes I just have to pinch myself.
A young guy walks by us headed for the counter. Half his ass is bulging out the top of his shorts. It’s OK though - he has his Christmas boxers on – green and red with little candy canes. Bea, who is sitting facing the door, says she saw the guy pulling his pants lower before coming through the door. There are three other young guys inside who also have their shorts pulled way down revealing the shape of their buns pushing through their boxers. Seems like a new thing here.
Three cops wander in. Two in uniforms and one with a ‘Police’ vest on, otherwise in street clothes; probably undercover. They walk slowly around the booths, checking people out. They stop in front of one of the ‘shorts-down-low’ dudes. They have him stand up and raise his arms. They frisk him; pull everything out of his pockets. They go through all his stuff, ask him a few questions. Guess he’s OK because they let him go, and they didn’t even tell him to pull up his pants. Apparently it was just a spot check – good to see, actually. None of the other customers paid too much attention to what was going on. Last week, right around sunset, I saw the same three cops patrolling in the Corner Bar.
We visit the BK for coffee every few days, it’s our coffee shop. There’s an older gent who’s been in there having his morning coffee every time we’ve been there. And he’s there again this morning. Bea has been watching him. She leans towards me and whispers conspiratorially, “That guy has a small bottle of rum cream and he’s been sneaking it into his coffee.”
“Good idea,” I reply.
“Yes,” she says, “We should bring our bottle next time.”
I’ve got the salt-fish soaking and I’ve de-seeded the ackee. Tonight we are going down to the beach, hopefully there will be a nice sunset.
Tomorrow I have a special photo to share with you. Well . . . I like it.
Likkle more . .
OK, I like cats.
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Home made plantain chips - splash on a little Pika Peppah . . . wash em down with a Stripe - heaven.
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Bea - her first day at her new job.
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Went for a walk yesterday along the new sidewalk. Early in the morning it's great, lots of shade. We love it.
A wonderful addition to Negril.
Here are a few photos from the walk.
This afternoon, I have something really nice to show you :)
It would be even better if people didn't park their cars on the damn sidewalk, but . . . I'm just sayin . . .
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This is from just one walk.
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They park on the sidewalk everywhere.
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I noticed all the cars parked on the sidewalk while I was there too! Maybe the police will realize this is a new source to raise money.
KAHUNA....you didn't have to take a pic of our car...LOL!
Just kidding...we noticed an increase on the sidewalk as of yesterday also...annoying! The police were having the drivers move their cars a month or so ago...apparently they'll have to do it again. Hard to change some people's habits apparently.
Sidewalk looks great. I agree that its a bit annoying that its being used as a parking lot. I will see for myself in two weeks. Thanks for the pics and report sir its keeping me sane in the weather. We had a couple of nice days but a blizzard and back to -30C again today....sigh! :)
Hmmm...Looks like they are parking as they did prior to the sidewalk going in, so they can park close to their home. I've seen this lots, they park close as possible so they can hear if anybody is trying to steal or take parts of their vehicles.
Sidewalk looks nice minus the cars.
That's exactly the thought that I had - a great source of revenue.Quote:
Originally Posted by poolguywindsor
Bnewb - I know your car, I didn't post the shot I have of it parked on the sidewalk :)
Sorry I'm late this afternoon - power outage then internet problems. It rained a lot here today, fifth day in a row.
But, I have something nice to show you :) At least, I think it's nice.
There is a family with about a half dozen kids living next to us. The kids are always out playing in the yard, more so lately because Jamaican kids get three weeks off over Christmas. One of the young boys got a big box of firecrackers for Christmas. How do know this? Well, he’s been popping them off, one every minute or so, since Christmas morning. He must have been given thousands of them. Why would a father buy firecrackers for his eight year old son? I dunno. Just what we need around here, more noise.
Speaking of family - - when someone asks you, “How many brothers and sisters do you have?” How long does it take you to answer the question? Three seconds, I’d wager, or less, maybe. Easy question right? But maybe not so easy for some Jamaicans.
We were talking to a Jamaican man the other day and Bea asked him the question. This man is about forty years old. He canted his head to one side and started to count. There were some ‘Ahhh’s’ and he moved his fingers and muttered to himself. Finally, after about 30 seconds of heavy cogitation he said, “Me ‘ave t’ree sistahs.” Then he started muttering again and counting on his fingers, “Ahhh, four . . Devon,’im dead, lemme see.” Then after a considerable lapse, he said, “Ahhh, me ave six bruddahs, one dead, so t’ree sistahs, five bruddahs, an’ me, dats ten.”
Bea continued talking with him, but I was wondering why it took him so long to answer such a simple, common question. Then I realized what the reason must be. He wasn’t counting up the members of one big fambly living under one roof. He was counting up half-brothers and half-sisters, several of whom he probably wasn’t raised with. And then there’s maybe-brothers, and half-cousins, and – well it could be complicated. It’s the baby-momma and baby-poppa thing.
If you’ve been reading this trip-report/blog for a while you’ll know that one of the things that I love about Jamaica is the natural foliage. Even the weeds here are beautiful. No, I’m not reefer-ing to THAT weed, which is quite stunning, but that’s another topic altogether.
Have you ever walked past something a thousand times and not really noticed it? Maybe not, but it happens to me. And just the other day, right here in Negril, something that I’d passed by literally hundreds of times suddenly jumped out at me.
We were walking along One Love Drive, just below Dead Man’s Corner. It was a little before sunset, so the rays of the setting sun were slanting low across the land. As usual, I was walking with my eyes down so as to not step in any dog or goat shyte. I glanced up to check my bearings and that’s when I saw it. A huge, magnificent, lone cottonwood tree, standing on the sea shore. Its leaves were brightly-side lit by the low rays of the settling sun. It was breathtakingly beautiful; one of those moments that stops you in your tracks. I stared at it, wide eyed and in awe.
The cottonwood sits on a small, rocky spit of land, directly across from the Quality Traders supermarket (the lime green building).
I snapped a few shots, but didn’t come anywhere near to capturing its splendour. Check it out for yourself one day.
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Love those cottonwood trees. The Llantrisant property has several huge examples that you can see from the road if you stop and take a peek.
Gorgeous.... Mommy and I admired the big Cottonwood tree at the Negril Lighthouse. Amazing!
That tree is gorgeous! Thanks for sharing! :)
Oh, that tree! I have stopped and just looked at that tree several times, I actually walked right under it one time ,not really sure why but its a really cool tree!
That also reminded me there is a plant that grows in Jamaica with a distinct smell, kinda smells like onions. There are some of them out towards the Westender, and they are all over the Southcoast? Does anyone know what I mean? The name of that plant?
PGW – I agree, that tree is special somehow. I’m going to walk over to it and stand under it, good idea. I wonder how long it has been there, maybe 40 or 50 years?
Booger – I’ve admired the group of cottonwoods in the Lantrisant property many times, I really like the one that has all the other plants growing on it, really spectacular.
Apologies to those of you who read my teaser and were anticipating something really exciting – and just got a photo of a tree :) But I love the natural beauty of this island, and that tree blows me away.
OK, now I want to talk about dogs:
Years back, when I first started coming to Jamaica, the people here did not like dogs. No question about it, it was quite obvious. They would yell at the dogs, throw things at them, kick them or hit them with sticks and brooms, whatever was handy. And the dogs would, in general, give Jamaicans a wide berth when passing. In short, the dogs were treated like dogs. But now, apparently, Jamaicans love dogs.
Nowadays there are as many pet dogs around as there are strays. Obvious by the collars they wear, the well-fed look and general good appearance. There are also many, many stray dogs. I mean there are hundreds of them. They are obvious by their mangy, scruffy, starved look. Many of them have injuries and have scars on their hides. But they aren’t chased away like they used to be. And then there’s the category of not-a-pet, but not-a-stray. There are lots of semi-cared for dogs around too.
At night the dogs, pets and strays alike, howl and bark to each other over long distances. I sit out in the evening and I hear the dogs communicating back and forth. In the morning it’s the roosters crowing to each other across the yards. In the evening, it’s a symphony of barking dogs. Also, in the morning, the dogs like to crap on the side of the roads.
Speaking of dogs; yesterday we were walking the last section of road up to our place. Across the road from us there are two pet dogs. I saw them through the fence. They were playing. It looked like they had a big stuffed toy and were wrestling with it. Something didn’t quite seem right so I stopped to get a better look. Then I noticed that the stuffed toy that they were playing with was moving its legs and had feathers. It was a brown chicken. There are a lot of chickens that roam around up around our place. It looked like one of them had wandered into the wrong yard and paid the price. Bonus meal for the dogs - bad day for the chicken.
Later I talked to the gardener that works the property. He’s an older gentleman with years of hard work etched into his face and posture. He said the dogs had killed his only chicken, and that he’d had plans for it; no doubt involving a pot, spices and some vegetables. He said the dogs didn’t eat the chicken, just killed it and played with it a while. I asked him if the boss, the owner of the pets, would pay him for his chicken. He smiled ruefully and shook his head, “No, mon.”
One more thing about dogs. As I’ve mentioned, we have a ferocious guard dog, Luna. She visits us every day, looking for a brushing and a scratch behind the ears. The next time we were in the Hi Lo, I thought maybe Luna would like a little bone to gnaw on, so I went to the butcher shop in the back. The guy behind the counter was helping another customer, a Chinese dude.
When I had the opportunity I asked the butcher if he had any dog bones. He gave me this really weird, pained look, and said, “What?”
The Chinese dude smiled at me. I nodded at him.
So I repeated myself, “Do you have any dog bones?”
Again, the bewildered look, “You mean for soup?”
Then I realized that he thought I was this crazy tourist guy who was asking him if he had any dog meat for sale, like maybe a leg of dog.
“No, no,” I explained, “like a bone for a dog to eat.”
The butcher’s look changed from puzzled to offended, “No, mon, we don’t ‘ave no dog food!”
One of thousands . . . . good girl!
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This will be our last stop on New Years Eve - in fact, our last stop of the year. If those girls are there, I'll post a photo for sure.
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Check out the admission charge 'GOOD OVER EVEL' They misspelled the 'Evil' part of it, but literally it means. 'No charge, but come to party (the good), not to make trouble (the evil).'
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It would be interesting to learn the estimated age of the cotton tree. A few years ago I spoke with the Doctor, who owns the property and learned that the main house was built before The Great Russian Revolution [1917].
Laffin OUT Loudly..picturing the exchange with the butcher ..... he WAS offended.... but bless your heart. How would you know ?? hehehehe The Chinese in Jamaica have always been accused of eating and serving dogmeat... (laffin) by the locals. They are very sensitive and get really angry wen the subject comes up. He must have been thinking yu had big cohones to come into his store to tease him to his face. Had a local posed that question the way yu did, he would have certainly run them out of the store..(laffin)
I am enjoying your candid observances of the local culture..and the pictures..
I just caught up with all your posts. Love reading you're adventures in Negril.
If I were ever to be reincarnated and had to come back as something other than a human, I'd want to come back as a cottonwood tree living on a beach or cliff in Jamaica. What a beautiful tree, I could see us sitting on one of it's branches with not a care in the world while we embrace the surroundings. Nice...
I look forward to reading your posts everyday. That's so funny about the dog bone.... still chuckling :D
This was my thought when I saw the Cotton Wood Tree pic...
Cottonwood fallin' like snow in July
Sunset, riverside (seaside), 4 wheel drives
In a tail light circle
Roll down the windows, turn it on up
Pour a little crown (insert redstripe) in a dixie cup
Get the party started
Just couldn't resist.
I also love trees and natural surroundings. It was beautiful.
LOL that butcher story is to funny. I feel bad the man lost is brown chicken hopefully he will have something else to prepare for a meal or three. I was told the cottonwood tree at the Lighthouse was 80 years old. Imagine cutting that down and making canoes out of it years ago? Must have been such hard work
That's interesting that the Lighthouse cottonwood is 80 years old. I'm going to try to find out how old the big Lantrissant tree is. I'm so glad they don't cut them down for canoe building anymore.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Jane
It’s a beautiful day here today. Hot, sunny, a nice breeze, blue skies. I wonder if it will rain again this afternoon, if so it will be the seventh consecutive afternoon with rain. But it’s all good.
This morning we went for a walk down to Charela for coffee. On the way back through town we picked up some things at the market; bananas, ackee, tomatoes, jack fruit, and oranges. But nobody has any eggs. Third day straight – no eggs. Whaaa gwaan?
So tomorrow is New Year’s Eve. You know how they lower the ball in Times Square? – that would be the N.Y. Times Square, not the one in Negril. Well there’s a rumor going around town that The Corner Bar is going to be lowering a goat from the highest part of the hanging tree.
Speaking of Times Square – in Negril this time. You now know where to get the King Gizzadas. Good. We went back there recently and I slowly devoured every morsel of another King Gizzada, (OMG!). It was a hot day, but I’ve got to warn you – It’s really cold in there, and I’m not talkin’ about the A/C. You know the Seinfeld episode on the Soup Nazi? Yeah, like that. The wait staff in there are the King Gizzada Nazis. Cold, brutha’, cold, cold, cold.
We’ve been here a month now. Wow, that was quick! Funny how things that I would gawk at the first week I was here are beginning to look just ‘normal’ now. Not entirely, but it’s starting to go that way. Of course it’s natural that the sense of newness gradually fades away. On top of that, I've settled into my groove and I'm getting lazy now.
So, with the accumulation of days spent here, it becomes more difficult for me to see, feel and write about new experiences and to craft pithy impressions. (read . . . I’m running out of new material) For example, I don’t even hear the tree frogs now, except after a rain when they seem to sing three times as loud. Walking by a yard in the morning and hearing a rooster (or three) crow the rising sun seems perfectly natural. Indeed it is. But during my first week here I would have slowed my pace, turned my head and grinned. Today I picked up my hat from the railing and a gecko jumped out of it. I didn’t give it a second thought, until just now.
I guess I’m saying that I’ll keep on posting, but probably not as frequently. I won’t post for the sake of posting, I’ll only do so when I feel I have something worthwhile. But I will keep posting.
Now for some blatant self-promotion: For those that don't know, I have two published books that are set in Negril, a travelogue and a novel. You can find them on Amazon;
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...oland%20reimer
Likkle more . . .
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One of my favorite people on the beach, sweet Myrna!
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Fresh fish at the fishing village market.
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Kuhuna3 just remember you go to long between submitting reports and pictures and DIF for the rest of us escalates and that would be torture :(
Thanks again for the ride!
Yup...believe it or not we're low on chicken, beer bottles & eggs so far this season....Quote:
Originally Posted by Kahuna3
K3,
Love the pic of Myrna! No problems with the blatant self promotion!
Keep posting!
Thanks,
VVHT
K3, even if you have little to say; please continue posting pictures of the flora and fauna when you get a chance.
Soon come.
Your books are so good and informative, they should be made compulsory for all visitors to Negril.
Please keep writing !
Thanks again K3.....we will have to be on our best behavior when we go see the gizzada nazi.
Your likkle observations will still be appreciated whether it's once a day....or once a month.
(p.s. you just sold another book) :cool: