I have now officially spent over half my life visiting Jamaica.

36 years ago, at the age of 36 I first visited Jamaica so now I have officially spent over half my life visiting Jamaica. I am still trying to let that sink in. In all those years, I have experienced some very bad things and, more importantly and in overwhelming quantify, some very good things so to rate this recent 42-day vacation one of my favorites of all time sets a high bar for the future.

Except for the occasional trip to Sav and a couple to Negril plus my periodic therapy sessions in the cold river, I did very little traveling out of my caretaker’s home. To most people it would seem like a waste of a vacation not sitting on the beach or partying, but I was there to relax and improve my health. When not on my annual vacation to Jamaica, I work every day of the year including weekends and Holidays for a minimum of six hours a day so I was content with reading my books and becoming part of my new “adopted Jamaican Family”, studying my surroundings and learning more about life in this area of rural Jamaica.

This all came about following two years of having my caretaker visit me most every day while I was staying on the West End at Y Worry Cottage when it was suggested that I just come stay at her house in Williamsfield with her family on my next year’s trip to save us both time and money. Her 21-year-old daughter who only stayed there occasionally would give me her room. It all seemed like a no-brainer except that I would be turning over control of my vacation and going to an unfamiliar area of Westmoreland and staying with people I barely knew in a house I had never seen. It was then that my trust in her and the time we spent around each other trumped any fears and actually made me hungry for a new and different adventure.

What follows is a recap of some of the highs and lows of that visit with, what I hope, some insight into the everyday trials and tribulations that come with living in rural Jamaica. Out of Respect for the people involved and their privacy, there will not be many pictures included.

Every year the ordeal at Sangster seems to get easier and easier and within 40 minutes of the plane landing, I came out to meet my caretaker and her brother. We loaded up his car and headed towards Sav on the old route through Anchovy via Ferris Cross. I wanted to hit the Cambio on the way, but they convinced me that would not be necessary. It was Saturday and market day so it would be very busy plus she would be going back on Monday to shop for food so I could come along on that trip. I just leaned back into the seat and let them take control.

We headed out of Sav towards Williamsfield and my excitement was wrestling with my concerns over my feelings when we pulled off Principal Road into the driveway up to the house I had never seen. My caretaker and her brother took out my luggage and guided me up the stairs onto the verandah. Inside the house, I saw a group of possibly a dozen or more people from small children to 30-somethings sitting in the living room as they bade me to sit on the verandah into what was destined to become MY chair for the rest of my stay.

For the next hour or so I was bombarded with names some I had heard before, but most were new to my ears along with their relationship to my caretaker from grandchild to child on to second cousins. It wasn’t long into this process that I gave up trying to remember names and relationship vowing to add this information one at a time over my stay. I was taken by the politeness and calmness of such a large group of Jamaicans in one small room.

It was getting near sundown and my caretaker wanted to show me my room where my luggage had been taken. It was usually occupied by her daughter, but she offered it up when she found out I was coming to stay. I quickly unpacked my luggage and checked out the bathroom next to my room before returning to the verandah to enjoy one of my favorite Jamaican dishes; Curry Chicken with coconut rice and peas along with some fresh June plum juice from a tree in the front yard. Wiping my lips with the napkin provided, I stared out and reflected on how satisfied I was with my choice to stay here. I included this in the trip report because it set the tone of what my stay would be going forward. Although there were a lot of family members around a lot of the time, they worked and played as a tight knit unit and invited me to become part of that family unit.

It was still early but I was tired from traveling since 5:30am that morning and I like to go to be early so I can get enough sleep to get up early as well. I retired to my room and lay in bed examining my room surroundings and the sounds from the neighborhood. It was remarkably quiet and no long after I fell into a deep and restful sleep.

Peering out through a corner of the window curtain, I saw it was early as the sun was only casting an orangish-red glow in the Eastern sky and mere silhouettes of the trees outside were becoming visible. I dressed and washed up before leaving my room only to find everyone else still sleeping and the house dark so I retrieved my little flashlight and made my way to my chair on the verandah to experience the beginning of my first day at this home in Jamaica.

I checked the clock on my phone, and it was 6:30am and I was soon to learn that this house’s occupants rarely rise before 8:30am so I had a couple of hours to myself. The first thing I really noticed was all the people walking down the road to a standpipe with empty water containers and coming back lugging full ones and a few others going to the house under construction next door to get their containers filled. I was soon to learn that this house and the one under construction next door were the only two houses in the neighborhood that paid for piped in water. The rest either couldn’t afford the bill or found the hassle and exercise a better trade-off than paying one.

The water and the electric current’s absence at times was a continuing theme throughout my stay. I was soon to learn that the water came from a spring down by the river and the pump depended on the current to operate as there was no backup generator. Thus, no current meant no water and short power outages were frequent and would not interrupt the water but longer ones that happened every day or two would and that would also cause the standpipe water to cease flowing. Once the current was gone for 14 straight hours and the freezer full of expensive meat was in peril of being food for the dogs. Catching rainwater for bathing and flushing the toilet was a necessity during these longer stretches. Sometimes, if it were in the day, we went to the river to bathe coupled often with the therapy sessions.

Behind the two doors from the verandah, I could hear my caretaker stirring from her bed and behind the main house door someone else in the kitchen making breakfast. Many mornings followed this timeline throughout my stay and before long a rhythm developed that was calming and predictable which suited me just fine.

Not everyday was remarkable or worth commenting on. I had become totally part of the normal life the caretaker’s family and friends. For brevity, I will include a few things that happened on different days as if occurred on only one day. Also, I have a few comments on various subjects.

MONEY. The most frequently used word in Jamaica, in my opinion. Mostly the lack of it and sometimes the expectations of getting some more by a remittance, work or winning the lottery. When I arrived the exchange rate of US to Jamaican was a little over $1.30 and by the time, I left it was a little over $1.40 and the relative prices of goods just continued to rise as if everyone was living off that rate increase. The problem is that a maid making as little as $5,000 Jamaican per week was making the same at the beginning and end of my vacation while the prices were rising.

HOUSE. Before I left last year from Y Worry Cottage, I made a deal to partly pay for this stay in advance. The major problem with my staying at my caretaker’s home was a steep hill I would have to walk up to get there. I paid $900 US so my caretaker could move her house from atop the hill down to an existing pad by the road. How? By using a saw and cutting it into three sections and have a tractor jitney transport it down the hill and reassemble it on the pad. Sounds crazy, huh? Well, this is Jamaica, and everything is possible.

Well, as they were cutting it, it was decided the wood was too old and brittle so the money was added to other money and a new indoor bathroom along with two additional bedrooms to an existing one, a living room and a kitchen were built with new wood. All this construction was completed within two months. Now, the formerly one-bedroom outhouse and verandah, is a three-bedroom house complete with a new indoor bathroom, kitchen and living room.

SOE. The SOE or State of Emergency calling the soldiers into action to stem the crime that has been spilling out of urban cities onto the island is, in my opinion, a necessary step but not the solution to the problem. Violent crime in Jamaica is akin to air in a balloon. When you squeeze it here or there, the air just goes to other areas of the balloon and, in this example, into otherwise peaceful areas of the country. The solution involves letting the “violent crime” air out of the balloon or it just moves to another location. Reforming the money laundering laws and getting tougher on lottery scammers is one solution being implemented and a lot more police corruption reform needs to be undertaken. Soldiers acting as police will sometime emulate the police by petty extortion of money from drivers at check points. That happened to us coming from Accompong Town for a paltry amount of $1,000 Jamaican Dollars.

One of my most important missions to accomplish on this visit was to visit my deceased best friend, Marshall’s grave in Accompong Town. I delivered a eulogy at a service held last year in the community center but was not emotionally ready to attend the graveside burial. I felt a need to let his community friends and immediate family grieve without any distractions. We had been friends for 28 years and his mere presence acted like a validation for me over the years but now it felt like I was sort of a widower and back on the market (so to speak). The difference was subtle but even my caretaker remarked on how it felt to her and we agreed after leaving last year.

I decided to travel to Accompong Town on Saturday, November 2nd and asked my caretaker’s brother to help me arrange transportation. I was very pleased and somewhat surprised when several family members asked to come along if it was only a day trip and not an overnight stay which was just fine with me. Our group of five consisted of me, my caretaker, her daughter, a 10yo granddaughter and my caretaker’s brother who would be driving.

I am a big proponent of using Red Plate Taxis but in this case, I was just tagging along with my new family so agreed on a car rental deal that is quite popular in rural Jamaica. Private car owners regularly rent their vehicles out for 3-day minimums. I ended up paying $30K total for the car, petrol and some bratta for the driver and got the trip to Accompong Town, a following day trip to Negril and another day to shop in Sav for groceries.

The previous day was November 1st and my 72nd Birthday and All Saints Day…. How appropriate. Ha! Ha! I was getting a lot of subtle pressure or call it subtle hints that I should buy a lot of alcohol and a ram goat for Mannish Water and I pushed back by replying that it was MY birthday and THEY should buy the alcohol and goat which kept them confused. I finally agreed to buy an ice cream cake for the immediate family and grandkids which make at least the kids happy.

During the cake eating party, I took time to call Kerry Ann Robinson up in Accompong Town to reserve her time to take the group on a historical tour while I visited with friends. She is somewhere in her 30’s and Marshall’s cousin and on a 1990’s visit to the town, she sat on my lap during a taxi ride in a packed 1957 GMC panel 10-seater van when she was just a school child. We have a lot of history together.

Full of ice cream and cake, I decided to excuse myself for some Internet time and go to bed for an early start the following morning around 9-9:30 but because it is Jamaica, I knew 10am was more realistic.

Yep. I was right. The car arrived about 5 minutes before 10am and by 10:15am we were on the road. I asked the driver how far before Accompong Town does he know the route. He said he knew to turn at Tombstone in Lacovia but from there, he did not know the way, so I just sat back and relaxed until the turnoff. After leaving Whitehouse, we encountered our first SOE check point, but we were waved through without questions.

After turning at Tombstone, I called Kerry Ann to let her know to expect us in about half an hour or so. This is called Tombstone because there are two brother’s cut-stone monument graves in the road. It seems they killed each other in a duel over, what else, a woman. Or so it is the legend.

I take a medicine once a week that messes with my digestion of food and right now my intestinal track was signaling a stop was in order but I knew there was a nice bathroom in Accompong Town at the Community Center and I reasoned I could wait but, when we reached Maggotty, I couldn’t wait any longer. I instructed the driver to stop at the old Maggotty outdoor market next to a bar I knew from the ‘90’s that would have facilities.

The bartender wanted $50 J to use the toilet but at that point I would have paid $5000 J or maybe even more! After washing and leaving the toilet, the rest of our crew needed to use it as well, so I went back to the car to wait. On the way out the front of the bar, I saw a face I hadn’t seen since the early 90’s when I used to spend 4-6 months a year at Apple Valley Park. Peta. Instant recognition and an embrace for two old friends ensued and I sat with the door open in the passenger seat talking to my old and dear friend. The driver came out to get payment for the toilet use so I gave him $1000 and told him to give Peta the change so he could have a cold beer on me. I wanted to stay and talk a little, but we had to meet Kerry Ann soon. We exchanged numbers and after loading up a refreshed crew, we were off to Accompong Town.

We drove into Accompong Town and noticed the grill to the Community Center was locked so it was a good thing I didn’t wait for a toilet to be available here. Kerry Ann has taken over running a store on the main that used to be owned and run by another dear friend, Piaki, who died a few years back.
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We pulled into the entrance to the cemetery and parked amid a large group of community members who were “bushing” the town. “Bushing” included cutting weeds with machetes, raking debris and partaking in a social event which helps bond the young and old and boosts the pride and moral of the citizens. We were greeted by Kerry Ann and I took her aside to pay for the tour of my “family” and to make sure there was a little extra for her after she has to give a portion to the town which helps pay for programs like “bushing” etc. assuming things worked as intended. They don’t always do.

As Kerry Ann took my group down to the Cudjoe Monument, I walked over to sit in front of Rubber’s store where you would usually find me when I stayed in town and wanted to hang with friends. Within mere minutes friends seemed to come from all directions asking how I was doing and expressing sadness over Marshall’s unfortunate and swift passing. I will always consider Accompong Town my “home away from home” however I don’t know if I have a desire at this point to stay overnight as my caretaker doesn’t want me to. She has her reasons and I respect her judgement at least for now on the subject.

About an hour later, my “family” came back from the tour with Kerry Ann and walked down to hang out at Kerry Ann’s shop and eat some chicken with rice and peas. I was not hungry and content to drink a cold bottle of water. We hung out and reasoned until the later afternoon as storm clouds were forming and our driver didn’t want to navigate the road in the rain. Now, it was time for me to go to Marshall's grave and pay my respects. My caretaker and I accompanied the driver to a spot next to the church where we got out.
MARSHALLS GRAVE
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MARSHA (A CLOSE FRIEND AND MARSHALL'S NEIGHBORS GRAVE
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My good friend, Flashy, got in the car as we took a drive around to Hilltop Road where Marshall's house sits to take a look at some work that has been done since last year. We stopped and talked to a lot of my friends and neighbors who gave their best wishes and hoped to see me soon. I have been blessed with so many good friends here. We drove Flashy home before returning to the main road.

It was starting to sprinkle so we gathered up the daughter and granddaughter as we said our rounds of goodbyes and promises to return. Going down the hill, I reflected on my discussions with the citizens of the town and the problems I observed. A common connection was that oft used word. MONEY.

Sometimes it angers me a little when it seems like the “Betta mus come” attitude of the citizens makes them complacent and resigned to the status quo instead of taking control of the things they can change and holding leadership financially accountable for the revenue they receive from tourism and aid. The two major problems, aside from the sometimes “I’m entitled to it” attitude, are misappropriation of funds and the LUMI.

While we were there, a tour bus full of paying visitors had to turn back because no one had the key to the Community Center to record them in. Recently, a tour bus paid $100,000 Jamaica in total tour fees and someone misappropriated it right into their own pocket and the proceeds from the 2018 January 6th Celebration still haven’t been turned in. Lack of leadership and accountability is an ongoing problem.

The LUMI. The WHAT you say??? In short, it is a currency cooked-up by a guy named McPherson who sold the idea to town leadership to get rich and to help their African homeland in Ghana at the same time. Why? Because he believes that the Maroons in Accompong Town and, in fact, the Cockpits are a sovereign country within Jamaica and thus the Bank of Jamaica has no jurisdiction over it. Here is a picture of the currency that makes for a nifty souvenir for visitors at $1000 Jamaican anyways.
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When I put my money in a bank, I want to know what does the bank offer as security and collateral. Well, the LUMI is not technically backed by anything. Its value is set at the cost to produce 100 Kilowatt hours of solar power in Ghana. Mumbo Jumbo and silver-tongued talk by a sophisticated grifter in my opinion. It costs $1000 J to purchase and can only be redeemed in Accompong Town for the same $1000 J so, what is the purpose? Timothy E. McPherson Jr came in a Brooks Brother’s suit with his version of magic beans to sell. After selling the idea, he then became Chief McPherson Minister of Finance complete in an African Dashiki Caftan and now sporting a working warrior look and changed his name to Chief Makao I (sp?) Supposedly, Colonel Williams has put a stop to his representing Accompong Town as it’s Minister of Finance. Most everyone is wondering what will happen when this scheme implodes, and a few are waiting with outstretched palms waiting to get rich.

LINK TO STORY http://nationwideradiojm.com/maroon-money-is-here/

In over 36 years of traveling and living part-time all over the island, I have experienced accommodations from camping on a remote beach like Strawberry Fields up to being an honored guest staying in a music producers luxury condo and never have I felt so at home and in the right place at the right time. It seems that everyone continuously went out of their way to keep me feeling as Irie as possible.

We spent hours laughing about and discussing so many things that it seems like it happened all the time. I was asked if I ever saw things like unicorns and mermaids. I explained that they were mythical, and they would say that certain of their friends, relatives or others have seen them. I said, “you have a Smart Phone.” “Look it up.” They would read what they found aloud, and we would discuss it further. It was a great learning experience for all of us. It surprised me just how many myths and legends were taken as real and fact.

There is a legend of Mermaids being in the rivers of this and some other areas. This was something we talked about for days. Most of those family members believed it was a real thing and some even swore they knew someone who seen them. Of course, I kept pressing the subject wanting to know more and I was mindful of the tendency of some Jamaicans to tell you what you want to hear in some instances. In my experiences, when you ask a question, most will give you a positive response or opinion rarely do you get an “I don’t know”. After days of discuss the mermaid claims, my caretaker told me about a Golden Table that came up from the depths of the river and hovered there before a farmer tied his cow to it and the table suddenly when back down into the depths dragging his cow behind.

Now, this was just too much for me! Golden Table? Who made it? Where did they get the gold? etc. But it seems everyone knew about it. I was perplexed but also extremely curious wanting to get to the bottom of this. And so, it goes over the 42 days I stayed with my caretaker and her family. We had so many wonderful times and lasting memories they are just too numerous to recant. I hope I didn’t bore you all too much and I thank you for reading.

BTW, I just was searching the Internet about a golden table and look what I found. Now this just explains a lot! http://archive.gosanangelo.com/lifes...356823561.html

Peace and Guidance

Thank you for posting this account of your time in Jamaica. I always enjoy your day to day of the runnings. I especially liked your telling of Accompong town that it encouraged me to take a trip up that road and met your friend Marshall. He was a wonderful person and I am sorry to hear of his passing. My sincere condolences on the loss of your friend.

Great story. We went up to Accompong a few days after you left and it wasn't a pretty story. If I get a little gumption, I'll tell it with a few photos.
Regards,
Bob

Thanks for sharing! I thoroughly enjoyed reading about your visit. Condolences on the loss of your friend.

wow ...thanks for taking the time to write all that....I have been with the anjo hines family in redground for 2/3 of my life from 19 in 1978 till 60 now. have gone from "little boy" to "old timer" now. I wish I could write like you because I enjoy all your postings. I always relate to your post having had many similar experiences. It may be Negril but when I go to Jamaica I go to Jamaica not a resort on the beach.(its just near the beach). thanks again for your writing its a great story from a great storyteller...……..view of Negril beach from our home

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Originally Posted by Momthor3

Thank you for posting this account of your time in Jamaica. I always enjoy your day to day of the runnings. I especially liked your telling of Accompong town that it encouraged me to take a trip up that road and met your friend Marshall. He was a wonderful person and I am sorry to hear of his passing. My sincere condolences on the loss of your friend.

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Thank you for the condolences. Yes, Marshall was a very special person and the hole it has left in my heart may never again be filled. Glad you enjoyed the story.

Respect

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Originally Posted by rjonsun

Great story. We went up to Accompong a few days after you left and it wasn't a pretty story. If I get a little gumption, I'll tell it with a few photos.
Regards,
Bob

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Hi Bob. I will be interested in hearing about your visit. I don't want to leave an impression that visiting a historical spot like Accompong Town should not be on ones list of things to do. Remember, when I first visited in 1990, they were relatively untouched by tourism and were authentic in their welcoming of the rare visitor. Over the years, Accompong Town has matured and not always in a good way.

Now, a visitor is treated more like a source of income much like at a restaurant where the waiter is anxious for you to leave (after leaving a tip) so the table can be filled by another customer. Even that wouldn't be so bad if they meal is worth the money or, in their case, the experience is worth the cost which can vary by the visitor and/or the guide.

A few individuals have weaseled into positions representing the town where they have adversely affected the process. Enriching themselves at the town and the town people's expense.

I will always love Accompong Town though.

Respect

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Originally Posted by alix

Thanks for sharing! I thoroughly enjoyed reading about your visit. Condolences on the loss of your friend.

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Glad you enjoyed the story and thank for for the condolences.

Peace and Guidance

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Originally Posted by redground

wow ...thanks for taking the time to write all that....I have been with the anjo hines family in redground for 2/3 of my life from 19 in 1978 till 60 now. have gone from "little boy" to "old timer" now. I wish I could write like you because I enjoy all your postings. I always relate to your post having had many similar experiences. It may be Negril but when I go to Jamaica I go to Jamaica not a resort on the beach.(its just near the beach). thanks again for your writing its a great story from a great storyteller...……..view of Negril beach from our home

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Developing a close enough relationship with a local Jamaican family (regardless of the location in Jamaica) where you can stay and learn about the culture and history is a great experience. One I have been lucky enough to do several times over the years.

In those 36 years, I have never stayed at an All Inclusive and only walked on a property of one a couple of times to see friends who were staying there. I was lucky enough to start my trips to Jamaica by camping out and staying in low-cost accommodations highly recommended by Lonely Planet Travel Guides.

Here is a camping picture from St. Mary many years ago.
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Respect.

I haven’t been on here for awhile . So glad I chose tonight. I enjoyed this. Hopefully you finish the whole trip.

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Originally Posted by Miss Honey

I haven’t been on here for awhile . So glad I chose tonight. I enjoyed this. Hopefully you finish the whole trip.

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Finished. Done. Home. Respect.

Nice write-up, Accompong!