Awe and Splendor: a Trip Report

This trip started as a joke. A joke between my BFF and me to rile up my husband on the way home from a set of DMB shows in July at Alpine Valley. This trip started as a trip to NYC to see museums. My husband put his stamp of approval immediately on that trip, and my friend and I looked at each other like, “REALLY?!?!” So we immediately started looking at flights and hotels for the first week in September but were dismayed at the prices. No way were we dropping that kind of cash for a trip within the US. So we started looking outside the US for a cheap getaway and straightaway, Jamaica was our choice. So it was mid to later July and we had a trip booked – I usually book much, much further out than that for international trips, but we had time to research. For a while, I felt as if I was over-researching, but once we hit the ground, I was so, so glad I had done all the reading that I did. I felt totally at ease and confident in saying no, knowing what we wanted, and had a great list of places to see, items to eat and drink, and experiences we’d like to treat ourselves to. Of course, I owe a great deal of this level of preparedness to you all here at Negril.com – so thank you all for your vast experience and knowledge of this slice of heaven – it was endlessly helpful.

We left at 3:30am from my house. We were prepared. We had our luggage strategically packed to fit our St. Anthony’s donations. We had laminated maps (YES, LAMINATED; we’re teachers, dammit!), we had snacks, we had cash, we had swimsuits, we had snorkel gear, we had bug spray, sun lotion, sundresses, hats – we had it all. We parked at a friend’s house and walked the 5 blocks to the light rail station, missed one train by literal seconds (we even ran, a tall order at 4:30 am!), but got the next one, no problem, and arrived with plenty of time to the airport. We only had carry-ons, it was early, and so our check-in and security process was smooth as butter, much like the majority of our trip – all that planning and research really paid off in the long run.Attachment 30627

After a smooth and uneventful layover in ATL, a few 9am drinks, and a snack, we sat down at our gate. Except when I sat down, I fell off my chair, well, more like slid off, and at that moment, I knew that we needed to really watch the alcohol intake on the trip – neither of us drink much anymore. So we made a pact to try to drink equal parts water and alcohol on the trip so we could (mostly) keep our wits about ourselves.

After boarding our MBJ plane in ATL, we quickly realized that the party vibe was already in full effect with most others on the plane, including our flight attendants, who sang, danced, and got us all cheering numerous times throughout the flight. Seemed they were just as excited to get to MBJ as we were.

Upon our arrival, I caught a few whiffs of the lovely sea air between the plane and the gate, and after quick, painless, and easy immigration and customs stops, and a quick purchase of some Appleton Estate and some run cream at the likkle duty-free liquor cart, we entered the hall to go to the bus counter and we were swept off to our awaiting driver and bus. We tipped the dude who helped with our luggage and I was a bit bummed we weren’t approached for a ganja transaction, mostly just so we could have a some good stories and also so we could practice our assertive rebuffing of such offers after having heard of how hard we’d get hustled, but I guess we look too innocent. Haha. ;) Attachment 30628Attachment 30629

After chatting up our driver and the other couple on the bus, we realized we had a bit more of a wait, so we ran over and grabbed some patties and waters. After about a half an hour wait (which was annoying, but we expected it after researching, so it wasn’t the end of the world) we finally got off on the road. MBJ was pretty busy so it took quite some time to just get out into the country side. On the way our bus driver stopped and bought us a bunch of the grape-like fruits that have a jelly-like inside with the hard shell on the outside, which were delicious! We also had to stop at those Grand Pala-whadducall’um AI resorts to drop a few folks off – woah, so glad we didn’t go that route for a hotel. Just so, so not our style and way too ‘luxury’ for our tastes. We continued on, and moved to the back of the bus since it was raised up and we could see better. We thoroughly enjoyed the drive into Negril! It rained just a tad, although it looked as if it’d rained more heavily earlier in the day since there were some puddles and the roads were still wet. Attachment 30630Attachment 30631Attachment 30632Attachment 30633

Of course we were the last ones on the bus and the only folks on the cliffs on the bus, but we arrived to Xtabi safe and sound. Upon first look, both of our jaws literally dropped and I don’t really think that I picked my jaw up off the ground for the rest of the trip. We very quickly toured our room (#16 – much larger and roomy than we’d come to expect based on pictures!), congratulated ourselves on a job well done on the smooth trip, and dumped our stuff off, threw on swimsuits, and headed out. We hightailed it right across the road to the bar and the cliffs. We promptly ordered up two Rum Punches and again did some verbal back-patting while we sat down. The sun was on its way down and we were in pure awe. The drinks were quickly downed and before we could even think clearly, we headed down into the caves – all we could keep saying was “holy S#$*!” over and over again. My friend continually said, “I’m so happy! I’m so happy!” – it was that pure magic that only arriving just in time to experience perfection can bring. Attachment 30634Attachment 30635Attachment 30636

Adrenaline pumped through my veins in a way that I didn't expect – it was a rush unlike any other; somehow knowing that we were in the right place, at the right time for this stunning show about to unfold before us was affecting me physically – and it seemed we were the ones it was all for – that somehow Jah, or Gaia, or God, or whatever higher power may control the sun and the sea, boiled up this brew of beauty just for us.

The permutation of awe, splendor, and humidity kissing my cool skin brought me to another place, a place where it was so easy to forget the 3 year old I’d normally have tugging on me, the messy house, the curriculum planning waiting for me to finish, not to mention the 170 students I’d be greeting in just a few short weeks for the start of the school year. It was all gone – gone and scorched into the very far reaches of my memory. I was living in the now. In the here. In the beauty of Jamaica.

We quickly stormed down the steps heading to the largest and smoothest swimming platform and we peeled our sweaty dresses off and before either of us knew it, we were in the water. I eased myself in and pushed back (gingerly because I had re-broken broken pinky toe from being clumsy two days before leaving for our trip – I originally broke it 11 years ago at my bachelorette party and damn, that freaking hurt). As I tasted that first flavor of the salty sea, I spread my arms wide and floated back, toward the sunset. I turned over, dove down, immersing myself fully in the sea, somehow both cool and warm simultaneously. It was perfection. Meanwhile, Krista was out a ways exclaiming, “I’m so happy! I’m so happy!”, making me smile and realize that our entire 20+ year friendship felt like it was coming to some sort of culmination – a special place that we’d never forget. We’ve travelled on the road together a number of times, but never like this, even though we are both relatively well-travelled for our ages and incomes (her more so than me). We made a pact to do as much as possible on this trip – she had made a list of things to do, experience, to taste, to see – and we were determined to cross off those items. In fact, just the very act of floating in the ocean watching the sun set before us, as Rum Punches danced on our taste buds satisfied a number of items on the list alone.

And despite our wish to get out, to see, so do, to experience, our first night was spent at our resort. Quietly, with joy, we returned to our room, dripping sea water as we scuttled across the road. We changed, and despite our very best intentions of heading to Canoe Bar to catch the tail end of the webcast, we decided to just eat at Xtabi that night.

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After much deliberation over the menu, we placed our orders and enjoyed just being. Being there, being warm, being loose and free. There was a table near ours with some women and rasta who were having a mixed conversation of Patois, French (I believe) and English and I let the language, the words, the enjoyment wash over me. I love language and communication and even though I wasn't paying much attention to what was actually being said, the mix of sounds, words, and accents sealed the deal for me of this international adventure.

Our soups arrived and all I can say is wow. Xtabi’s pumpkin soup is most definitely a must try if it’s available. Within a few minutes of our soup being finished our meals arrived. Here I’ll say what fantastic service we received at Xtabi – it was slow due to low season, but we were still treated very well and not in a clingy, annoying manner; we were always pleased with, in particular, the timing of our orders being placed and the food being presented. We have both been servers in our past lives, and timing is often the problem in service, but they had it down. We were never left for want of more water, fresh drinks, etc. I ordered the grilled veggie platter. Our meals were exceptional – well cooked, flavorful, and relatively reasonably priced for the setting, the service, and the quality of the food.

We did not realize that this trip would eventually become so much about the food – finding it, eating it, raving about the flavors, the healthful aspects, and so on and so forth. Our beach vacation quickly turned into a cliff-dwelling foodie getaway. And I was in no way disappointed!

We finished our leisurely meal, and had a few more drinks before heading back to our room where we had more drinks and prepared for the next day. We got all of our St. Anthony’s donations together, packed our beach bags, and finally hit the hay around 11:30, after basking in our self-congratulatory glow on our porch for a while more.

The next morning we awoke early, but an hour earlier than we thought due to the stewardess telling us the wrong time after we landed and our phones somehow not adjusting to the appropriate time – this ended up being a blessing since our feet hit the sand on the beach nice and early, so early that few were out and we could truly walk without much action from the beach boys (still some, of course!), and we could watch the beach awaken to the day.

Next up: our first route taxi experience, St. Anthony’s (short and sweet visit!) and how we managed to make it through the craft market to the beach without buying anything – amazing!

There ain't nothin' like the first trip!!!! :cool:

Yessss!! Love it! I remember my first trip, I couldnt sleep the night before and when I arrived I took pics of everything!

Thank you for sharing this with us. You write beautifully.

I'm loving it already, great start! Also big props to both of you for being teachers, a thankless job that I have learned to respect since my daughter became a teacher 2 years ago.

Awesome report and pictures,thank you for helping keep our dreaded island fever at bay!!

booking - a------

Great TR so far! Thanks for the pictures (esp the one of the arrivals duty free). You write beautifully , can't wait to hear more!

Don't you love it when the flight crew gets the time wrong :rolleyes:

Keep it coming!

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Originally Posted by 2nutz4travel

Great TR so far! Thanks for the pictures (esp the one of the arrivals duty free). You write beautifully , can't wait to hear more!

Don't you love it when the flight crew gets the time wrong :rolleyes:

Keep it coming!

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Thank you! I know that lots of people have been wondering what the duty free liquor set-up looks like, so I thought I'd snap a pic. :)

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Originally Posted by Tanfastic

I'm loving it already, great start! Also big props to both of you for being teachers, a thankless job that I have learned to respect since my daughter became a teacher 2 years ago.

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Thank you! Teaching is amazing but trying. Especially since it's one of those jobs that you have to be "on" at all times for - It's just exhausting to be "on" for 8 hours, then come home to a crazed 3 year old, get him to bed, and then sit and work for another 2+ hours every night and more on weekends. I always joke that it's 9 months of pure stress, then 3 months of pretending not to work/think about school, (even though we work quite a bit in the summer too) and then back to it - a wicked cycle. ;) But it's worth it when we get the occasional notes, thank yous, and hugs from students. :)

Thanks everyone! :) It's been a lot of fun writing so far - I do not ever get the chance to write for pleasure and most of the time I'm critiquing others' work, so thank you for the kindnesses! :) I wish I could have brought my big SLR camera, but I couldn't justify it for a four day trip. :)

"Our beach vacation quickly turned into a cliff-dwelling foodie getaway.

Hahaa true nuff!!!

Write on!

Great start. We went for our first time this year and are hooked. Can't wait to go back. Soon come I hope.

Love your writing style. So did you ever get to test out that "assertive rebuffing "?

Thank you for a wonderful report. I, too, was a teacher and my first trip was also in July. You brought back many memories. Your first time is magical BUT now I feel that way each time although not with the same intensity.

So loving your report and pics!! Keep them coming!

And here comes another great report......

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Originally Posted by MoFromMonroe

And here comes another great report......

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Agreed. Keep it coming. I can feel the joy in your story telling

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The sun was on its way down and we were in pure awe. The drinks were quickly downed and before we could even think clearly, we headed down into the caves – all we could keep saying was “holy S#$*!” over and over again. My friend continually said, “I’m so happy! I’m so happy!” – it was that pure magic that only arriving just in time to experience perfection can bring.

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Great start on your report, wow, you have me back at Xtabi (also, my first time place) in style. Your pictures, smiles and style d'écriture have me hooked!

Thank you, thank you, thank you all! :) It's been a joy to write about this trip - I've always dreamed of travel writing and I've never brought myself to actually do it. I second guess myself too much and think I'm being a cheeseball in whatever I've started before. So I really appreciate the positive feedback and support. :)

My husband has come down with the flu and I'm crossing my fingers I don't catch it was well - either way, I'll try to start the next installment tonight.

GREAT start....love your vibe!

I dig the Greek Mythology reference. Thanks Teach! More please.

Great report, keep it coming!

LOVE IT!!!!!!:cool:

This report is what I expect from Negril.com. Pure joy! Thanks Nicole.Edith!!

I say this with a smile on my face. I offer you so much respect for your report. After 40 some trips to the rock this is the first year in 20 years that we have not had 1 or 2 airfares bought or a plan for when we would return. The noise and confusion of life and fulfilling other obligations has just not let our Jamaica Thrill fire burn. But tonight as I read your report your excitement brought back that thrill and awe that always motivated us. Much respect for your sharing.

I am liking your trip report. Beautiful pictures! :cool:

Awesome report. This is a special treat. Rare is the day we get to feast on a newbie report. Please include as many details as possible!

i can see the smiles now when you first set foot at xtabi and saw the sea and surroundings...i remember my first time there too...many years ago-but with same awe as you all experienced- nice trip report....

Great start, and thanks for taking the time to share your experiences!

I'm wondering if this trip report will include a little shock and awe vs the "awe and splendor" that we all experienced as newbies. It seems like no matter how much you plan, how much you think you know or how many times you have been, there is always that moment where you realize you're no yardie and you still have a lot to learn. I always love hearing what caught first-time visitors off guard, as well as all the things they loved about Jamaica.

Hope hubby is feeling better and you don't get the flu!

Doing good now the hard part to keep the report rolling.... Love your pictures and We all know that wonderful feeling... I cant wait to be back

great first installment. looking forward to more.

Loving this report,please keep it coming nicole!!

We need more! We need more! We need more!
...please ?.... :)

Morning one began with me waking after a solid 7 hours of sleep. No waking up with the sweats in the middle of the night, as is common occurrence at home. No 3 year old breathing in your face whispering with urgency, “mama, I gotta go potty!” at 4am. No middle of the night wake-ups for my own potty break. I slept a precious 7 hours – straight. Unheard of since before I was pregnant with my son. And seemingly, only possible on the rock hard but somehow magical mattress in #16.

As I tend to do when on trips, I jumped out of bed, sprung by the urgency of our already fleeting time in Negril. I usually feel as if I can swoop onto my usual travel companion, my husband, and shake him awake when we’re in a foreign country, eager to begin my day, but this morning I softly padded on the cool tile floor to the bathroom, closing the door gently behind me. I didn’t want to interrupt the rest of my friend’s sleep.

When I was finished in the bathroom, I slipped back into bed but I just couldn’t lay still. I grabbed my camera and silently slid through the door to the porch. Much like at home in the depths of July and August, as I stepped outside, I was hit square on with that humidity, lovely and refreshing. It’s not as stifling of a humidity as it is at home – it’s the kind of humidity that makes you feel as if you are sweating out all of that s&^# in your life, all that stuff that makes you feel low, awful, lacking, self-loathing. A few minutes in that heat, coupled with a smooth breeze, and I feel more alive and well than I have in ages – like I have a right to feel good. This, coupled with food and culture, is another of the top reasons I love to travel.

I amble around the grounds between the road and the guesthouse and snap some photos, again really missing my SLR and lenses back at home. The tiny camera I’m using is frustrating, so I switch to my phone, which is much more satisfying to use and fun to play with, changing lenses and film on my Hipstamatic.
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When I return to the shocking cool of the room (we are so glad we ponied up for a room with air!) Krista is up and at ‘em. We have already mostly packed for the beach, and we check the time, about 8:15 when we figured in the time change from our phones, so we finish getting ready and head across the road for breakfast. We’re greeted with a stunning view of the water, as was always the case on our visit, with rich and bold sunrise colors in the clouds. As we step into the bar/restaurant, the staff seem a bit surprised to see someone so early, but they seated us nonetheless. We ordered a fruit plate and a bread plate; tea for me, coffee for Krista. I pretty much have an aneurism when they bring the sugar – raw cane sugar. I pay a mint for this type of sugar for my teas at home – I don’t drink coffee. This sugar was pure, unadulterated sweet joy – I experienced that ever-elusive perfect cup of tea that morning. The perfect cup is that rare cup that’s the right blend of strength (I drink black tea of varying types), sweetness, and creaminess. This, of course, only added greatly to the already strong sense of rightness of the moment. Our meal was absolutely lovely – sweet, earthy, raw. The breads were lightly toasted and were delightful. I cannot find a better word – I was absolutely delighted with the sweet breads. The fruits were chilled and had a slightly muted sweetness from what we have at home – more real. MmmmMmmMMm. After breakfast and settling our tab, a few other folks came to be seated for breakfast – we once again applauded ourselves on our wonderful timing.

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We stepped out to the road and grabbed our first taxi. After negotiating the price for him to bring us to three stops, we hopped in with two adorable little school girls. The older sister was probably in 2nd grade and the little girl was probably four. The older girl was clutching the fare for both girls in her hand – a slight swell of responsibility in her chest. They were just so cute, and we of course told them we were teachers and asked what they liked to do in school. The older girl shyly told me she loves to read and the little just smiled and looked at her lap. I fished out a handful of Smarties that were in the bag to bring to St. Anthony’s and handed them each two rolls of the tart candies, some of my favorites to give to my students on special days or as rewards for quiz games or the like – it’s fun to say, “here are some Smarties for my little Smarties!” which, of course, I mumbled some version of as I placed the candies in the girls’ hands. The older girl immediately said, “thank you!!!” and the little just stared at her palm, the candy lying parallel to her fingers, as if she could not believe her luck. We dropped the girls off at their respective schools and the driver told us that they’d probably love it if we were able to find time to visit – we put it on our list for our next, longer trip.

Our driver quickly guided his well-kempt car to St. Anthony’s and walked us up to the door where we spoke briefly with the woman running the kitchen, Pearl, I believe (my friend has the notes). She thanked us with her warm smile and told us to come back again to visit if we could. We jumped back in the cab and the driver brought us to the Cambio across from Burger King (which cracks me up…I’m always so amused by US chain restaurants in foreign countries). It was pretty busy – we realize they have just opened. It was a bit disconcerting being in there with 4-5 others as it’s pretty tight, but we were all business and we return back to our driver, who then drops us off at the start of the beach right near the craft market. Now, we didn’t really know what was up with the market – we just wanted to get to the beach, and the driver told us to walk down through the parking lot and to the beach from there. We paid him and he was off and so were we, but not before we realized we hadn’t brought our phones and we had no idea what time it was. He tells us it’s somewhere in the area of 8:45, which seems weird seeing as how we just sat down for breakfast a bit after 8am…huh. Weird. Oh well – we were on a mission to get our feet in the sand. We’d just have to keep an eye on the time and try to figure out how we lost an hour somehow - we had to be back and ready for the One Love Bus by 2pm.

The market was basically dead with only a few early bird merchants open and of course they begged for us to see their wares. We looked, saw a number of things we could see ourselves buying, but we figured we had plenty of time to shop later – too bad at that time we didn’t know that pretty much everything is closed on Sundays, one thing that our research had not really brought to light, so we did miss out on a good shopping experience, something we both love to do…even though it’s so cliché and touristy, a good shop can do your soul wonders, I swear.

Once we emerged onto the beach it was as if time stood still for a few moments. We turned in wide circles, wondering why there were basically no people to be seen. We shook off our shoes and stuffed them in our bags and we set off. The water lapped at our feet as they sank into the sand. We took a few photos as some beach boys emerged from the shady trees up the beach a bit, all in varying states of awake. We figured we’d start moving and the rebuffing of the boys thusly officially began. We kept moving and said no to everything you’d expect: ganja, snorkeling tours, glass bottom boat and jet ski rides, rides on the backs of motorcycles to the ganja fields, Jamaican boyfriends (I was actually surprised that these precise words were used – ha!), escorts on our walk…we took it all with a grain of salt and kept moving, saying many, many versus of, “no thank you, no thank you!” and “respect!” – no problem.

We did stop briefly to take a look at our map to see what was coming up, as it was apparently only about 9:15, which we confirmed with one of the beach boys – we finally figured out that we’d showed up to breakfast 45 minutes before they actually opened, but they served us nonetheless. So, even though we hadn’t planned it that way, we landed on the beach at the perfect time of the morning, avoiding an intense experience in the market and perhaps a more busy beach. But as it stood, the sky was vivid and clear, the water looking luscious and translucent as it licked our toes, and we had the beach virtually all to ourselves. And so we walked…

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Originally Posted by Lorax2

We need more! We need more! We need more!
...please ?.... :)

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Since you begged...

;)