I've got to find my way back, back to summer paradise - Nov 2011 Trip Report

[CherryNorth49]

Nervy of my employer to think I should actually have to work for my pay. I would much rather be hanging out dreaming of Negril! Today's chapter is going to come out in a few pieces, but I will get it all in there.

Iowagirl – Thanks for the encouragement. The good news is Sunshine got there in the end! He sure is excited to be heading back.

Lovechild – Across the miles, I still got the hug, thank you!

Mavmaiden – Don't say that! I think so much of the fun of trip reports is how each has its own style. I don't know how to quote from another thread, but in his last report, Booger commented that once you get beyond the " I don't give a $hit if people like it or not," you could write it. That comment pushed me over the line and got me writing. I look forward to hearing about Negril from your point of view.

Kaycee – it really was a priceless moment!

Tizzy – Connie was like a guardian angel that day. I can't wait to go back and say hello.

Lady Jane – Why do men do that? Sunshine did the same thing when I first introduced him to my family's style of camping. I haven't yet figured out if he isn't saying it or if I am just not listening. I prefer to believe it is the former.

irie always and Mamade – I sure hope we do run into each! When I finish up the telling of last year, I will lay out our plans for this year – not that we have many plans, because we are of course going to continue with mostly doing nothing – but I do know where we will be doing nothing! Negril is not that big a place, I am sure somewhere our plans will overlap. We are planning to be at the Seastar show Dec 1.

Ktans, pine tree john and Seveen, I am glad you are enjoying following along. Thanks for reading!

So it's Wednesday in Negril…

[CherryNorth49]

Chapter 9
“Kindness is a language which the deaf can hear and the blind can see.”
― Mark Twain

Wednesday started with sunshine inside and out. I was becoming addicted to the OJ from Shamrocks. It is just so good.

It was pub crawl day and we had though perhaps to get on board, but when we called the bus was already full. Oh well, something to save for next time (pick up is already booked for November 30th).

We talked it over and decided to make this our 'fancy' dinner day. Normally when we go on vacation, we aim to head out for one really nice dinner along the way. We decided on Rockhouse and called to arrange our pickup for that evening.

The sand gravity had a strong hold on us that day. With our dinner plans made, we got our swim suits on and headed down to the beach.
Breakfast came entirely from the vendors along the beach. I got caught with my guard down and discovered myself holding a bag of coconut along with the pineapple I thought I was buying. Now it is in my hands, so the negotiating gets more one-sided. Ah, whatever might as well give it a try. I decided afterwards that it was meant to be. I have never really liked fresh coconut, but this stuff was addicting. I kind of wished that I had more. Patty man came by and then the ice cream man; you really never need to get out of your lounger if you don't want to. Sunnyside was keeping the Red Stripes cold and Sunshine was an excellent server, never letting us run dry. Life was really good.

When Sunshine and I vacation, we always seem to get to a point in trip when we start to talk about how the reality of the trip has been lining up with our expectations going in. The first of these conversations I recall was while we were bobbing around in waves that day. We certainly shared some laughs at our own expense. If you can't laugh at yourself, what is the point?

One of the things that we were finding most remarkable was the people. We were making our way around Negril with all the grace of a bull in a China shop and I was not especially proud of that. What was most amazing to us was that every time we had stepped wrong on this trip, there was a Jamaican there pointing us back onto the right path. Some were nicer about it than others, but wasn't the important part; what did matter was that without fail someone had always helped. I have been in tough spots in strange places where I certainly wouldn't have said the same. We are not so naïve as to think that in this summer paradise all people are good people, but they certainly seemed in the majority.

So how was the trip comparing to expectations? In the end, I think our smiles kind of sum it up best.

This is literally the only picture I have of the two of us in Jamaica.

[CherryNorth49]

We got cleaned up and into our least casual clothes; the bus to Rockhouse picked us up at the hotel right on time. It is by far the shiniest bus I have seen to date in Negril.

There is only one other couple on board and we aren't making any other stops. They are coming from one of the more expensive AIs, I can't recall which one. Turns out they were, in Canadian terms, from our part of the country (i.e., within 1000 or so miles). He had been to Negril and Red Ground some 25+ years earlier, so their trip was a return for him and an anniversary celebration for them both.

The basics of where you from covered, she gets right into what seems to be an really important question, "What time is your reservation?"

"It's for sunset."

"Well yes," she says, "but what time is your actual reservation?"

I try to clarify, "Well, we called and made a reservation for sunset, so that kind of is the time."

"Well, what time is sunset?"

I'm wondering to myself if this is an AI thing or if this woman is just a bit strange. Sunshine's eyes meet mine and I know he is thinking the exact same thing.

I haven't had a watch on in five days, so I don’t really know what time the sun actually sets. I have been using the old 'sun's getting low in the sky it must be almost sunset' kind of logic. I do want to be helpful though, so I think back to the last webcast I watched from Canoe, "Umm, somewhere between 5:30 and 6:00?"

She turns to her husband, "Oh no, our reservation isn't until 7:00. What will we do? Will we have to wait? It's only just 5 o'clock! Why did we reserve so late?"

I suggested to her that I am sure this would all work out fine, but she was clearly put off.

I got a strong sense that this little jaunt on this bus from their AI to the Rockhouse restaurant was a daring adventure, as they boldly ventured forth to 'see Jamaica.' Her nose almost wrinkled at the prospect of 'staying off resort' as we were doing. She was very interested in learning more about our trip, though her questioning felt more along the lines of someone asking for all the juicy details of some sordid, gossipy tale.

"Do you have a restaurant at your resort?" she asks.

"No, it is closed because it is low season" I reply, "though there is breakfast included."

"So where do you eat?"

Deep down, I want to give her a snarky reply, but I figured it wasn't worth my time. Reminding myself that there is no such thing as a stupid question, I reply "Well, there are lots of restaurants around and the vendors on the beach have lots of options. It is like an endless buffet out there."

I am sure Sunshine can sense where this conversation is going. He is always really good at reading moments like this. He chimes in, naming off a number of the places we have been, generally making it sound wonderful and normal all at the same time. Eating in restaurants is of course normal, but you wouldn't know it from the look on this women's face.

Her eyes got wide and her hand started fluttering up towards her chest. "So you have been eating in Jamaican restaurants?" she says with some alarm, "Haven't you been sick?"

I sneak a quick glance at the bus driver. He is clearly listening, but his face remains a neutral mask. I feel bad that she doesn't understand the insult she has just given, since she basically just implied that Jamaican's don't understand the fundamentals of clean food preparation. There is a vast difference between having fewer material things and being dirty; I haven't really encountered any dirty Jamaicans, it's been quite the opposite really. I try to compensate with an extra enthusiastic reply. "No, actually the food has been great. It is all very fresh and prepared to order. In fact, I am starting to feel like I have spent a week at the health spa. Given all we've been drinking, it must be something in the food."

If you ever want to feel really good about something, get Sunshine to deliver the pitch. When inclined, he is capable delivering a message with of a level of (seemingly) sincere enthusiasm that few can equal. He is starting to lay it on pretty thick.

She's not entirely convinced and continues on her interrogation, "Aren't you worried about your safety?"

I shrug, now actively trying not to look at the bus driver, "Not really, security at the hotel has been great. There are certainly lots of vendors around, but we haven't felt threatened by any of them."

With a small shake of her head, she turned to her husband and started inquiring if there was much he recognized along the route.

By now we are half way up the West End Road and we seem to have hit a bit of a traffic jam. I suspect for anyone who finds driving in Jamaica a bit harry, shuffling through a traffic jam on the West End Road ups the drama. We come around the next corner and we are suddenly faced with a sea of people all dressed in orange. They have noise makers, horns are honking and most everyone seems to be jumping up and down yelling.

Our traveling companion cheerfully asks the driver, "Oh, is this for a sporting event?"

"No man," he replies, "its politics, but it's no problem, yah man."

Her faces falls and she grabs for her husband, exclaiming rather loudly her concern. I thought perhaps she might jump right into his lap. She was most certainly wishing she had never dared to venture out of her resort.

You might recall when planning this trip that I declared to Sunshine that Jamaica was perfectly safe, with the one caveat to that being that it might not be during elections. Where do I find myself now? With an election called and us driving into the middle of a political rally. I'm thinking to myself, please don't let Sunshine remember I said that.

I will admit that my heart rate did go up a notch; to a foreigner, their enthusiasm was intimidating and a bit scary. This was clearly not my best case scenario. The driver sure didn't seem alarmed, but I suspect even if this was bad, his face wouldn't have shown it.

I was waging a bit on an internal war. I was scared, but I was also really annoyed by this fellow Canadian's rather rude disregard for her host's feelings. I'm getting up on my soapbox now. I really hate it when people treat those in the service industry like they aren't there and they have no feelings. How friendly you choose to be is a personal choice, but everyone deserves the respect of at being treated with good manners. Ok, I'm stepping back down. The faces in the crowd looked enthusiastic, not menacing, so annoyed won out.

"Oh this," I said in my most nonchalant tone, "this isn't anything to worry about. You know how at home during elections, everyone puts signs out in their yard? This is like the Jamaica equivalent of yard signs. Look, it is even orange like the NDP!" It was a total lie, but I wanted this woman to stop looking at everything like it was from an alien planet and see things in a relatable way.

I saw the driver's eyes flick in my direction in the rear view mirror. I have no doubt he knew I was full of sh*t, but I like to believe he appreciated the effort. She relaxed her death grip on her husband and I turned to Sunshine and engaged him in inane chatter. I was really done with this woman.

The rally slowed us up a bit, but we were still at the Rockhouse in good time, none the worse for the experience.

[T&A]

Her eyes got wide and her hand started fluttering up towards her chest. "So you have been eating in Jamaican restaurants?" she says with some alarm, "Haven't you been sick?"

They will never know how much great food they missed out on. The AI's must be doing a great job of bull****ting their guests on the dangers that lurk outside the gates of their little community.
Great report by the way! Keep it coming.

[bjritz]

Connie declares she has an auntie with the same name as me. It must be a common Jamaican auntie name, as she was one of three people to say that to me that week.

Yah, "Auntie CherryNorthFortyNine" is common in Jamaica, I bumped into a few too.

The two bobbing happy heads in the wata was so delightful to see.

You're right about the food, it feels good and of course tastes even betta.

I would have thought your dinner bus buddies would have panicked at the corrogated steel walls just before getting to Rockhouse. Rough bit that.

You are keeping me in stiches, CN49, thanks for that!

[kaycee]

ughh....I hate tourists like that! I've been to Jamaica three times and I've never ate at expensive places(Kuyaba was the most expensive place I ate at which was $37USD)...I always try to eat at Jamaican owned restaurants because it helps the local economy.

My last trip I met a couple who stayed at a high end A/I and I told them about Negril...they had no clue it even existed. Don't these people know that Negril is the Capital of Casual?! LOL!

[CherryNorth49]

Now I could be justly convicted of making some less than generous judgements on the bus ride to Rockhouse. Payback is quick though, as I must admit when we arrived at the Rockhouse, I felt a little like I was being judged. It could be all in my imagination, but I suspect that they don't pick folks up at Rooms on the Beach all that often. I felt as though we were being perceived to not be their 'usual crowd.'

As we were being led to our table, the waiter leaned over us and whispered in an almost conspiratorial way, "You know we don't take Discover Card." I didn't quite know how to respond. Is he trying to help us out early, so we don't humiliate ourselves later when we couldn't pay for dinner? I asked him if cash would do, or perhaps they might take Visa. He allowed as how both were fine and sat us at our table. It was a strange start to the experience.

That said we had a beautiful table on the railing overlooking the cove. The restaurant at Rockhouse does not have the best sunset views, at least not in December. In a perfect world, I would have a cocktail out by their pool, watch the sunset and then head to the restaurant for dinner. I have no idea if they would do that for a non-guest or not. Probably depends on the season. You can see the special "Rock Table" over Sunshines shoulder.

We tried to very clear to our server that we were in absolutely no hurry. We had all night and didn't want to be rushed. It wasn't busy such that there was a second sitting coming in behind us, so I didn't feel any concern about occupying our table for a while. This was our special meal out, so we weren't going to cheap out on the bill.

We had yet to sample a Dirty Banana anywhere along the way, so we thought this would be the perfect time. As a general rule, I am not a huge fan of bananas or cream in beverages, so this was a bit of a risky proposition. I figured the rum and coffee flavor would make it all ok and there are so many references to these in other reports; I had to give it a go. The Dirty Banana was delicious, though it was a bit like starting a meal with dessert and a filling one at that. I will probably order another one somewhere along the route on our next trip, but it will be as a snack instead of with a meal.

We had conch fritters and coconut shrimp to start along with some blended cocktail with Papaya. This was the first time we had every ordered conch. After having the fritters, I feel like I still haven't eaten conch, as I think there was a lot of dough and not a lot of conch. There certainly were no strong identifying flavors. The coconut shrimp were good, but I have had better.

I had ordered the Jamaican Rundown with chicken for my dinner and our server came back to explain that our food would be slower as they made it from scratch and the rundown took time. I told him again we were in no hurry. It was a fair comment, but I wish he would catch on to our pace.

Sunshine studied the wine list and ordered us a bottle of red to go with the meal, which was good. He said that they had a decent wine list. I understand why lots of places don't have a lot of wine on the menu. I am a wine drinker at home and I didn't really ever think to order it while we were in Negril.

I thought the mains came fairly quickly, but I was so chill it could have been an hour. I had my rundown and Sunshine had curry chicken, which came looking like a sun, how perfect. I think this is the only meal I managed to photograph the whole trip and I still didn't quite catch it before we started. Both our main courses were delicious and worth having again.

[yetta]

Really beautiful presentation on your meals! I have only eaten once at Rockhouse and it was good but the price was a little hefty. Great picture of you and Sunshine!! Anxious to hear more!

[Guirigay]

It's like going along with you! So personal and fearless, I really admire this. If you took as many risks on vacation as you do in your stellar writing you would put adrenaline junkies to shame. Sunshine at BCC, you can see in that pic that he has turned a corner. You can't really fake a smile like that. His pitch in the cab to Rockhouse confirms it. If you're only gonna have one photo together from the trip, sopping wet in the sea is a good one - the smiles are great. So glad you're sharing, please continue...

[CherryNorth49]

We did want to have dessert and coffee, but needed a bit of digesting time. We also each had a glass of wine left to enjoy. After the waiter checked back twice about our ordering dessert, I finally asked him (nicely) if we could just sit undisturbed and enjoy our wine and the view of the cove. It is beautifully lit at night and you can actually see fish down in the water. I told him when our wine glasses were empty, we would order dessert. He seemed to finally get the idea and left us be for the fifteen or twenty minutes it took us to finish up.

For dessert, we opted to have coffee and share a slice of rum cake. In case we were in danger of sobering up, Sunshine suggested we each also have a 12 year old Appleton on the rocks. It was my first taste of the vintage Appleton and I was in love. Lucky for us both, it was a seriously generous pour.

At some point along the way, I did need to find the ladies room. I had crossed the line over to drunken bathroom photos, which unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately) I seem to have deleted.

Well fed and watered, we paid our bill without incident and headed towards to road to get a cab. We went out a bit of a back door, so didn't end up using one of the cabs from Rockhouse. A red plate stopped as we stepped out the gate, so we chartered him back to the hotel with a stop at Shamrocks.

We had enjoyed the rum so much that we bought a bottle of it at Shamrocks. The fellow had to dust off the box, which had me humming a little David Lee Murphy in my head:

"There might be a little dust on the bottle
But don't let it fool ya 'bout what's inside.
There might be a little dust on the bottle
It's one of those things that gets sweeter with time."

(here is the video, should you feel the need to sing along. I've been mocking 80s hair for a while but yikes, the 90s are starting to feel the same way!)

Our usual orange juice, stripe, snacks and now rum in hand, we headed back to Rooms to enjoy the rest of our evening.