# Negril.com Message Board Forums > Negril Message Board >  Paradox in Paradise

## Guirigay

Warning! Lots of romantic ramblings and philosophical musings will follow

First, shout outs to RastaGal, Patty Sather, GerryG, Brasi, TicToc, Daisy-Markus-Jamar, Rum-Polephoreskin, Hettie, Kahuna and all the folks I've forgotten whove invested time in their trip reports the last couple of months. You all roll differently but everyone has offered multiple insights to me on the who, what, when, where and how of a great trip to Negril. What was not really expected and probably most enjoyed, however, were the whys. Beautiful, thoughtful, emotional, silly, ridiculous, profane whys. They were amazing and perceptive.  Ive followed them closely and got a trove of information to help me prepare for a week of spontaneity. Planned impulsiveness? Yeah, thats not really intuitive, but its a fairly decent absurdity to describe me. Sponge up as much information as I can on as many facets as I can think of concerning something I want to do, then try to follow the lucid moment. I suspect, though, in Negril it will be interspersed with a series of semi-coherent interludes.

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## Guirigay

And thus, the title of my self-indulgent opus. I think this may be the perfect/worst place to introduce a little verse. You may find it amusing, you may want to slap me silly, you may be amused about slapping me silly

--Education
The considerable powers of science and academia
Have failed us
Centuries have been lost
In this world of mine
Teach me
To Live
With paradox

The story Im working on involves finding happiness while losing love, searching for peace while living in chaos, turning the page but remembering the tale, letting go while holding on, learning to detach from an attachment that will never go away.  The last few years of my life have played out like a really bad Hollywood script. I have read some impressively presented back stories here but Im talking Star Wars epic and Pulp Fiction crazy just on my side. Sweetie Pies story has its own set of bizarre twists. The full back story would far outweigh our penultimate chapter so I will give you just the character synopsis of our protagonists. If it sounds crazy in brief, just multiply by infinity to get an idea of the full story, I am trimming out a lot. Oh Yeah, I asked Sweetie Pie and she said it was OK to include her in this trip report

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## Guirigay

the Cast of Characters -

Guirigay  pronounced gear-ee-guy with the Spanish rolled r. A nickname given to me by some friends from Spain. Guiris are tourists in Spain from northern Europe, always red from sunburn. I am always red, only occasionally from sunburn.I am a guiri guy. I am also a gregarious soul. Boisterous, occasionally loud, full of commotion, sounding of gibberish to some individuals. The Spanish word for that is guirigay. The Spaniards find that hilarious, I find it both accurate and endearing.

 I was, or thought I was, a one woman man married for life. 22 years together, 2 children at University of Michigan and Kalamazoo College, beautiful home, great job. All of our friends thought we were the perfect family and to be honest, so did I. Its amazing how fast things can fall apart. With the youngest off to college the ex had little to do, shes a small fortune heiress and never really wanted to work after having the kids. Alcohol and submarine sandwiches filled her days. She started hanging out with our daughters friends who had not gone off to school. It got to the point where she was slurry by the time I got home most evenings. I tried to talk to her about this, didnt go well. Tried therapy, she wouldnt go. In a matter of 3-4 months shes telling me that she doesnt love me, wont ever love me again, but its OK to hang around as long as Im willing to be told every few days in some fairly brutal terms that she needs to let me know she doesnt love me.

My genius daughter (not kidding, 140+ on multiple IQ tests) drops out of college to wait tables while lying about dropping out. The wife and I split and she drags around one of my daughters 19 year old male friends to a one bedroom apartment and then to the house she buys with money I give her in the settlement. She and the lad start a cold cuts deli for submarine sandwiches.

Through all of this, I cant help it Im a stupid romantic, Im hoping and working for a reconciliation. I met Sweetie Pie just before the divorce was final and we had an immediate an intense connection. Initially , though, it made me long for what Id lost. After a few months I decide I need to make one last effort at reconciliation. Long heartfelt conversations with Sweetie Pie ensue. She is amazingly, painfully, beautifully understanding. Sweetie Pie and I break up. The ex says she wants to try, a week later she says no, no she doesnt. Im swimming somewhere well below the surface. A few months after the breakup Sweetie Pie sends me a beautiful birthday gift. We agree to go see a movie wed talk about many times while dating. Its Christmas time and we exchange gifts. She gives me a gorgeous Japanese wool scarf she knitted herself. She spent a lot of hours on that scarf, and we were not dating. I knew she was something special.

We see each other every couple of weeks and she has plans to learn to ski (I am an avid skier). Her friends who were going to go with her back out at the last minute and she is still on her way, by herself. I am seriously impressed by her adventurism. I take her on her first ski trip and its a lot of fun. Were dating again within a month.

Shortly after we start dating again, my son comes home and tells me he believes he is transgendered and he is going to begin the transition process. This is out of the blue, no prior indication. I am very close to him and did NOT see it coming. This was about 11 months ago. Hes been on hormones for 6 months and Im working on understanding the inconceivable. Let me tell you, it aint easy.

I thank goodness for Sweetie Pie and thank Sweetie Pie for goodness.

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## poolguywindsor

WTF did that say! lol

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## Guirigay

Cast of Characters Continued -

Sweetie Pie  is incredibly deserving of the name. She is a kind, loving, nurturing, helpful, considerate, understanding, caring soul. As a perfect example, she has a terrible problem with competitive games that require you to make deals with other players. She will always make the deal that helps the other player. The funny thing is, its not a problem for her, she has won by helping her competitor win. Sweetie Pie!!

Sweetie Pie was, or thought she was, a one man woman married for life. 16 years with the first man she really fell in love with. No children but a life filled with adventure, art and travel. As a professional photographer she had worked travelling on her own through France, spending a month in Paris roaming the streets, immersed in her art. Opportunities to travel to Australia and the Carribean were pursued. She worked as a still photographer for a number of independent films, getting the chance to work with some impressive artists. Her ex was a computer scientist with an avocation for the violin. He made good money with computing (I can relate) but he loved the violin. He played in symphonies for a long time but began experimental electric violin performances at some new age spirituality venues he was drawn to.

Sweetie Pie says her marriage had a more gradual decline than mine but it was steady and unnerving. Her ex began displaying two distinct personalities  Computer Scientist and Performance Artist. Eventually Performance Artist won out. He now goes by a made up stage name and has for all intents and purposes abandoned his previous life. He asked Sweetie Pie for an open marriage. She aint that understanding.

Sweetie Pie had been divorced for 2 years when we met and her experiences and outlooks were very similar to mine. Many of the things she told me during our early relationship have come to pass. Things I could not see happening at the time. She has been a great friend, confidant and guide for me.

I dont want to delve too deeply into Sweetie Pies feelings for me or her experience of our relationship, its a little too self-aggrandizing even for a hornblower like me. What I will say is she lets me know regularly how much she cares for me and makes me feel incredibly lucky nearly every moment Im with her.

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## Guirigay

So we were supposed to be headed to Jamaica with Sweetie Pies sister and brother-in-law who are, in order, the second sweetest person Ive ever met and a dude who has settled in right near the top of my coolbook. Insanity and relaxation were to be the order of the days but work got in the way for Coolbook. He slipped a couple of positions  :Smile: 

When the hedonistic shuffle fell through it did not take me very long to come up with an alternate plan. Sweetie Pie and I have done some wonderfully romantic stuff  Mackinac Island, Bed and Breakfasts, A houseboat hotel in Saugatuck  but only for a couple of days and all in or around Michigan. We both feel like were at a place where a week alone in a tropical paradise will strengthen the bond between us. There are things that can be put to bed and things that can be awakened. Negril held a special place in my family and for me in particular. When we stayed at Xtabi the entire staff called me Family Mon. Sweetie Pie and I are going to create some new memories in an old haunt and shake off some ghosts. I started to get even more excited about this trip than the party plan.

So we booked! Then I got hooked on freakin Negril.com! I used to check this place out quite a bit in years past but its been awhile. Funny thing is the vibe is still very much the same in general. The trip reports, though, seem to have taken a completely new and interesting tack though. More blog like, less rudimentary documentation. Im digging it.

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## Guirigay

Last night while packing Sweetie Pie and I are having a little issue over problems with one of our three dogs. Im kind of shuffling around biting my tongue because the issue is with one of her dogs. She sees whats going on and her excellent advice, as usual, is Dont internalize! We talk it out and all I can think is  Damn youre awesome! So a little later I asked what she would think if I wrote a story about us on the web and she says, That would be nice, I think it might be good for you. She sees right inside me sometimes Ive been telling her to check out Negril.com but she hasnt got around to it. Now shes interested but I told her she cant check until after were back, too many nuggets out here now!

So if you see these people rolling around Negril next week youll know who we are. Try to remember that this tome is for a limited purpose. While it is all me it is not all that I am. I hang with my boys, just wont be my focus next week. Say hi, were fun and friendly.

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## marley9808

Wow!
I am speechless (ok not really, because that doesn't ever happen with me, I always have something to say, so here goes)
The reports and openess and emotion on the board lately has been beyond amazing! I feel so renewed in a way with human beings recently after I had seriously started to lose all hope in us. People nowadays are so rude and you only hear stories of heartbreak, abuse, etc etc. It lifts my spirits to read FROM MEN (no offense, but usually you don't hear from men about these feelings, except my hubby-that's why I married him), but with Brasi, then Rum and now Guirigay-what a joy! See women.....there really ARE men like this in the world....not just in the movies...so don't settle for the jerks! Everyone...men and women, deserve to know and feel this kind of love.

Thanks for sharing Guirigay. I was rooting for you before when I just thought you were trying to find some romance with your Sweetie Pie, but now I am seriously backing you! Shouting, Jumping, Clapping......You go, boy!

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## Rumrunner

I totally agree with Marley! It's really nice to hear from men baring their souls.
I am definitely one of the lucky women. On March 29 hubby and I will be celebrating our 43rd anniversary. We are probably more in love now than the day we got married. AND we're still having fun! 
Guirigay and Sweetie Pie, have a wonderful, romantic time in Negril.

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## sandy-girl

"See women.....there really ARE men like this in the world....not just in the movies...so don't settle for the jerks! Everyone...men and women, deserve to know and feel this kind of love."

I agree with Marley.. Have a great time in Negril. BTW, you guys make a very nice looking couple.

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## Clarity

I _also_ agree with Marley! :Smile: 
Thank you for sharing your story, Guirigay! 
I'm glad you and sweetie Pie have found eachother - You're a beautiful couple! 
Have a wonderful time together in Negril!!!

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## yetta

Agree with all the ladies above!!  I'm hooked already!! Have a great time and dance like no one is watching!!!  Sounds like you both are in for some memorable times..let the good times flow...........can't wait to hear more! :Big Grin:

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## Delta

I'm part of the choir!  This is great.

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## brasi

Great report mi friend. I'm glued.

And it's nice of you to mention my report!

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## rastagirl777

"I am definitely one of the lucky women. On March 29 hubby and I will be celebrating our 43rd anniversary. We are probably more in love now than the day we got married. AND we're still having fun! "
I LOVE you guys.  Truly.  Mazel Tov.

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## tfw73

> And thus, the title of my self-indulgent opus. I think this may be the perfect/worst place to introduce a little verse. You may find it amusing, you may want to slap me silly, you may be amused about slapping me silly
> 
> --Education
> The considerable powers of science and academia
> Have failed us
> Centuries have been lost
> In this world of mine
> Teach me
> To Live
> ...


bahahahaha!  Love it..."Oh yeah, I asked Sweetie Pie and she said it was OK to include her in this trip report -"
You're obviously a good man!!!

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## tfw73

Just finished all the posts...wow, what a story!  And I also agree, you two are a very nice looking couple with a wonderful tale to tell!

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## Rumrunner

Thank you, Rastagal!  :Smile:

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## Rumrunner

Oops, sorry, Rastagirl.  :Embarrassment:

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## Creasemon

I think that we are on to something here. Make Negril the next Mystery Romantic Destination where Hearts go to Heal and start the journey over again. There has to be a movie in all of this or at least an AMC mini series (but without the Meth or Zombies!). Now the only trick it how to get Pool Guy into the story line with Beach Towel Shopping..!!

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## marley9808

Lol

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## Guirigay

Packed the bags this morning. Sweetie Pies was finished Wednesday night, I really only managed to throw some things into a pile in the living room. There's an amazing balance point you can achieve in traveling when you decide to take only the things you're really going to need, you suddenly realize how much you can fit into a carry-on and a shoulder pack. Once you commit to being a mobile traveler the entire world opens up. Having said that, I feel like I'm traveling heavy this reach even with just the two items. Too many swim suits, shorts and tropical shirts but I gotta work with Sweetie Pie's plethora of suits, sundresses and cover-ups all of which seem to take up next to no space...  :Stick Out Tongue:  

We'll head to Detroit for the stay and park tonight, fly out at 10:30 tomorrow morning and land in Paradise at 2:29. Should make for an enjoyable scramble to Negril. Will we make sunset or not? Will we immediately succumb to the island and say "Who cares?" Will that first Rasta Shack suck us into it's orbit? My anticipation is enormous. A lot of fun things are lined up. Sweetie Pie and I always tease each other about "evil plans", for the duration of our Paradox in Paradise I will be playing the role of the evil Dr. Yes...

Thanks for all the feedback - much peace to all of you.

Brasi - it was your story that really got me thinking about the cathartic value of doing this. Respect. Rum-pole's pretty bold too, made it easier. It's a little weird and unnerving putting it all out there, but I'm all in now.

Don't think I'll be posting much after today until we get back. I've lived here getting ready to live there, gonna follow that moment. We plan on the pub crawl on Wednesday. Only thing that could possibly stop us would be something else...  :Wink:

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## Rum-polephoreskin

Hope you're having fun (both of you).

Sounds like you have a lot on your plate (when you get back).

When you write your report you'll be passing on the kindness, repaying, what you got from the board.
If I've helped you in any way I'm glad, I have a debt to pay here too.
I'm looking forward to hearing how you two fared.

Bon voyage!

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## marley9808

I am so excited for you both!
Live it up Guirigay and Sweetie Pie! Hope your new adventures and new memories in Negril together far surpass any others you had previously!

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## Jim-Donna

Well BLESS your HEART!!! You have been through quite a LOT!!PLEASE just LOVE YOUR SON!!! You are for sure going to enjoy Jamaica. Even though Jim and I have been married 26 years Jamaica makes us MORE Amorous. It is like we fall in LOVE all over again. Yippie here we come.

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## Shaggy

What a nice story, my wife and I have been going to negril Jamaica now since 1989. As far as I'm concerned,its the most romantic place in the world. So many good memories have been made there. We will be arriveing on the 10th of feb, the first week at Rondel Village and the second at Extabi which is diffenately on the top of the list for romance. Enjoy your trip, if we run into you we will say high and have a beer , cool runnings

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## Rum-polephoreskin

Jim/Donna,
So to speak, yippee!

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## Fred Stripe

*Life++++ Is what happens when youre busy making other plans......*

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## Guirigay

Great trip! Lots of romance, lots of fun and a lot of stories. It may take me a couple of days to get things sorted and settled here before I can do much with the trip report. I tried to start a thread about Bentleys that I promised him I would but I think it might have been pulled for excessive use of wild carded expletives  :Smile:  It was a rather emphatic rally cry to go to Bentleys  :Smile:

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## vikman

Guirigay
Glad you had a good time. Let me know how you liked HSH leaving next Tuesday for a 11 day stay there
Nick

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## MoFromMonroe

can't wait to hear about hsh

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## Patty Sather

> Great report mi friend. I'm glued.
> 
> And it's nice of you to mention my report!


Im with all the group on here that say awesome! and Thank you also for the mention in the report , what a interesting life  you have and I cannot wait for the rest of the story.. :Cool:

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## rastalady

Thanks for sharing. I can not wait for the story to unfold.

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## Guirigay

I have photos Patty!!  :Stick Out Tongue:  toy camera had some problems with the high contrast though, we'll have to see how the sea window shots came out, they might be pretty shadowy. Have a couple other nice shots from the boulder cave where we could get better lighting so I'll probably throw a couple of them up when I get a chance.

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## Patty Sather

> I have photos Patty!!  toy camera had some problems with the high contrast though, we'll have to see how the sea window shots came out, they might be pretty shadowy. Have a couple other nice shots from the boulder cave where we could get better lighting so I'll probably throw a couple of them up when I get a chance.


YAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!! :Big Grin:  I cant wait!

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## brasi

_Brasi - it was your story that really got me thinking about the cathartic value of doing this. Respect. Rum-pole's pretty bold too, made it easier. It's a little weird and unnerving putting it all out there, but I'm all in now..._---

I'm flattered. By your mention...and that rather than ostracize me for laying out my feelings this board's community *TOOK ME UNDER THEIR WINGS*. Rather rhymes with Sather...btw.   :Embarrassment: 

What's obvious is that we all have a common love. I for one won't forget the kindness shown by everyone here. I love Rum-pole's explanation...Trip Report's are kind of like "paying it forward" with positive energy...to get those of us at home through the times when our next reach seems so far away! So maybe the catharsis through trip reporting...is the poster's pay off for allowing others to live vicariously through a reporter's eyes?

I digress... get writing, son!   :Smile:

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## Patty Sather

> _Brasi - it was your story that really got me thinking about the cathartic value of doing this. Respect. Rum-pole's pretty bold too, made it easier. It's a little weird and unnerving putting it all out there, but I'm all in now..._---
> 
> I'm flattered. By your mention...and that rather than ostracize me for laying out my feelings this board's community *TOOK ME UNDER THEIR WINGS*. Rather rhymes with Sather...btw.  
> 
> What's obvious is that we all have a common love. I for one won't forget the kindness shown by everyone here. I love Rum-pole's explanation...Trip Report's are kind of like "paying it forward" with positive energy...to get those of us at home through the times when our next reach seems so far away! So maybe the catharsis through trip reporting...is the poster's pay off for allowing others to live vicariously through a reporter's eyes?
> 
> I digress... get writing, son!


Ahhhhh Brasi.............  :Smile:

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## Guirigay

Friday was an incredibly slow and difficult day of work. Meetings about projects Ill need to be working on when I return followed by meetings on the politics of the projects Ill be working on followed by grousing about the politics of the projects. The longest days of the year are the last work days before vacation. I print out the travel documents, The newbie list for Sweetie Pie to peruse and the poetry I will be reading to her. Love poems referencing the sea are plentiful and easy to find, its such a great metaphor in so many ways.

We meet at Sweetie Pies to change and load the car. Dogs are walked and we head over to Coolbook and Heavy Hands (Sweetie Pies sisters well deserved nickname) for a farewell dinner and drink. We joke about opening a bar in Negril and naming it the Heavy Hand. We decide HH cant bartend there, shed be a liability. Coolbook and HH are seriously bumming as we walk out the door.

We head to Detroit Metro to do the stay and park. $85 at the Clarion for a nights stay, breakfast and 8 days of parking. The room is ridiculously hot even though the thermostat is set at 65. We take this as a good sign but sleep restlessly with just the sheet. We are awake, showered and dressed before the wakeup call. The cattle call that is air travel these days goes about as smoothly as we could hope.

We sit with Robin on the flight. She has just turned fifty, lost her husband 2 years ago to a long term illness and is headed to Jamaica to get Back in the game. Her and Sweetie Pie hit it off and have several long chats. While Im trying to nap with Robins pillow pet I hear her say something to Sweetie Pie that is one of the nicest compliments Ive ever received. The whole week would be a little strange that way, a lot of very nice things said by some lovely people. I long ago learned the value of effective flattery as an interpersonal skill tool  just a little, just the right thing at just the right time. Well, Robin was loaded for bear and hit dead center with precision timing. I felt like I was in the clouds  :Smile: 

We pass over Cuba and Im starting to get antsy. Well be in Jamaica in less than half an hour Sweetie! I begin to scan the horizon for the first sign of the island. Big cloud heads are the first give away, then a small bit of green. As we turn to land I tell Sweetie Pie to watch out the window and it will seem like were going to land in the ocean. She is amazed how close we land to the sea. Were early and have to wait for a gate to open for us. This worries me a little, it means congestion at the terminal. It is well founded as we wait an hour and twenty minutes to get through immigration. Were not going to let it get us down though.We keep crisscrossing the line with some folks wed met at Detroit waiting to get on the plane, theyre headed to Treasure Beach for a week then a week at the Rockhouse with a group thats referred to as the Old-Timers, Rockhouse guests for 20+ years I think. We joke at each pass and try to point out the grumpiest people in line.

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## Guirigay

As soon as we walk out the door Chris is standing there with a Home Sweet Home sign. God do I feel good, I turn to Sweetie Pie and kiss her and were off. There is another couple waiting at the airport bar, theyve apparently had to wait about 90 minutes for us. Theyre an older couple, somewhere in their sixties from southern Indiana. The husband has a pretty good one going and says he spent more in the bar waiting for us than the taxi is going to cost. I tell them Ill buy them a Stripe when we stop for the trouble. We stop at Pork Pit and get some jerked pork and a couple of Stripes. Big load of mild sauce on one side and a smaller load of the hot stuff on the other. It is delicious. Sweetie Pie is digging in, saying Now I feel like Im in Jamaica! We scarf it down, its so delicious that Im licking, sucking, semi-abusing my fingers. I would later regret this action.

So were sitting at the table at Pork Pit, 15 maybe 20 minutes out of the airport doors and I have my first awkward Jamaican moment. Old Indy has actually brought down some medicinal with him, this just makes me shake my head. He imbibes before we go into the Pit so hes even more relaxed as were talking about the excitement of being in Jamaica. Theyve been several times. I tell them Ive been a few and mention some of the things I love about it. Heres where it gets awkward. Sweetie Pie says she thinks she heard one thing, I think I heard something worse, but either would be seriously problematic for me. What Sweetie Pie heard Old Indy say was, I love everything about Jamaica except the natives. I heard something a sight worse In any case Mrs. Indy smacks Old Indy and says, Theyve just met us! Awkward! If they werent going to be at the same small hotel as us for the next week I would have said something but considering his list I couldnt see any positive coming out of it. So neither Sweetie or I said anything, but on the way back to the taxi Sweetie Pie whispered, I dont like that guy. This is a very rare occurrence.

On the way to Negril Chris takes us to Percys Garden Retreat in Orange Bay. This is a very cool place up in the hills. Chris had his wedding reception there in December. Its mostly used for day trips out of Negril. If you like the Jamaican countryside chill I would highly recommend it. The centerpiece of the property is a river bar. Yes, a bar built over a river. Very cool, very easy to relax. Sweetie Pie is amazed, she asks for a good Jamaican drink. We talk about the options a little bit and she settles on a rum and ting. She got the hang of the Jamaican thing really easy. She knocked a couple back, said they were delicious, she was hooked. We walk the property, its very nice old school Jamaica. Percy was working in Negril when most people still camped there, his place has that kind of feeling. Old Indy is a wreck by the time we leave and has managed a few more inappropriate but less overt comments. Percy wants to talk us into a day trip with the other couple to the retreat. We have to pass. Sweetie Pie says the place is beautiful and she wouldnt mind going but



We head out for Negril and Im talking to Chris about what has changed since my last visit. A lot. The hotels start much sooner, Bloody Bay is mostly full now. I see all the old haunts go by a lot under different names now. Into town and up the west end road and soon were there. Here we are, Home Sweet Home, says Chris. I laugh and say, I bet you like saying that. Ya mon, comes the reply.

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## Guirigay

Charlie greets us and our bags are taken up. Were shown the room and given a demonstration on how to use the TV and cable setup. We dont turn it on the whole week. The verandah doors are swung open, we dont shut them the whole week.  After unpacking a little and getting out of our travel clothes we head down to the restaurant. Dirty Bananas!! Hay Suess they are good!! We order some dinner, Brown Stew Fish for me and Fish Escoveitched for Sweetie Pie. I like the brown stew, the escoveitch is good but they do the dry escoveitch there and to me thats more like English fish and chips. Good, but I like it better when its in a sauce with veggies. Sweetie Pie loves it all. The escoveitch is very vinegary which is going to cause a bad association for me later in the night. I have had a strange low grade headache in the temples since about Percys. I write it off to travel and dehydration. I start drinking copious amounts of water. We have a couple more stripes at the bar and head up to the room. Flowers are waiting for Sweetie Pie in the room. I tell her flowers will be coming every day. She gets melty. We spend a little time on the verandah. We are in awe. I read her Beautiful Dreamer by Stephen Foster. This is public domain material Rob -  :Smile: 

Beautiful Dreamer
by Stephen Foster

Beautiful dreamer, wake unto me, 
Starlight and dewdrops are waiting for thee;
Sounds of the rude world heard in the day,
Lull'd by the moonlight have all pass'd away!

Beautiful dreamer, queen of my song,
List while I woo thee with soft melody;
Gone are the cares of life's busy throng.

Beautiful dreamer, awake unto me!
Beautiful dreamer, awake unto me!

Beautiful dreamer, out on the sea,
Mermaids are chaunting the wild lorelie;
Over the streamlet vapors are borne,
Waiting to fade at the bright coming morn.

Beautiful dreamer, beam on my heart, 
E'en as the morn on the streamlet and sea;
Then will all clouds of sorrow depart,

Beautiful dreamer, awake unto me!



We eventually drift off to sleep with the sea breeze rustling through the palm outside our room. We are in Jamaica!

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## Jim-Donna

"Beautiful dreamer, awake unto me!" OHHHHHHHHHHHH TOO SWEET!!!

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## brasi

Great report...love the poetry...nice touch.

...and I don't like dat Indy man, either.

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## rastalady

Indy guy needs to get kicked off the rock!

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## Patty Sather

> Indy guy needs to get kicked off the rock!



I believe he is making his own karma.......

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## Guirigay

I awake in the middle of the night, my head is a pulsing thumpfest. Im thinking Wow, I must be really dehydrated to have this bad of a headache from 5 stripes and a dirty banana. I get out of bed to get some water in the bathroom and I feel extremely woozy  and not the pleasant variety. I get a big glass of water  they have one nice big 20-24oz plastic glass in the room  and I slug it down. Sweetie Pie asks how I am and says well go get some Tylenol in the morning. I lie down and in a few minutes my mouth starts salivating, a little saltiness and I know whats coming. Off to the bathroom I go again. Its an ab racker so Im thinking probably not the liquor but I lie down hoping it is and Ill feel better soon. Now this is not romantic in the slightest but just let me say you really dont want to have this happen when youve had ANY vinegary fish escoveitched and I had wolfed down the leftovers. Sweetie Pie is very comforting but I sleep uncomfortably, it does not get better. before dawn I manage to fall asleep.

I am awakened with Sweetie, come take a look at this! my blurry eyes come into focus to see Sweetie Pie leaning out over the verandah railing, her backdrop an impressionists dream of grays, blues, pinks, yellows and reds. Let me tell you, if youre going to wake up feeling shiddy thats the way to do it. I swerve out to the balcony and we hang out for a little bit watching light rise and darkness descend. I am in lousy shape. Sweetie Pie sends me back to bed. I feel bad. Dont worry, Ill read my book on the verandah, she smiles. HH had given her a brand new copy of The Hunger Games for the trip and she was hooked. Ill get us some coffee as soon as I see someone about, she says. Im in and out of consciousness for a good chunk of the morning. She gets us coffee, toast and eggs. I get up and try to eat but that turns into an epic fail. Back into bed I go. In and out again several times hoping the next waking moment will be without pain and nausea. At some point I think to grab the newbie list and give it to Sweetie Pie.

Every time I do awake, however, I am greeted with the view of Sweetie Pie reading her book on the verandah. If you have to be sick, thats not a bad setup. Ill be using that little mental picture the next time Im down and out.

----------


## Guirigay

Finally, some time late morning, Ive had it and I get up. Im still feeling pretty ragged but I say, Lets go! and we get dressed to walk downtown. We head down what will become our daily trek. On the way we pass Chicken Lavish and Im very happy to hear Sweetie Pie say, Thats supposed to be very good! I am pleasantly surprised that thinking about food does not make me queasy. I know where were going for dinner. We are trying to find the Hi Lo but my head is spinny and we end up walking past the roundabout and up to the gas station. We stop and look at some fruit, the lady has some nice pineapples. I see a soursop too. We only have US$ so I tell her well be back in a few. 

We end up going back to the market at the roundabout. We get a Maalox type antacid, Tylenol and sunscreen at the pharmacy counter and change my cash, Sweetie Pie grabs 4 vitamin waters and we meet at the checkout. While Im in line Sweetie Pie goes up to the rack by the exit with the dog food. I see her kind of fidgeting and say, Youre thinking about our dogs arent you? She nods and I say, You want to buy food for the street dogs, dont you? She nods again and says, Well, dog treats if I could find them but I dont see any. You think Im crazy dont you? Now I have to admit the question of the street dogs was posited with a snarky tone but it was a LOVING snarky tone so I couldnt pass it up, Sweetie, I KNOW youre crazy! Just as the clerk is ringing up the waters a bag of dog treats comes flying onto checkout belt. This was probably the best 1000J I spent the entire week. We walk out the door and I rip into the bags.  A huge chug of antacid and Tylenol with vitamin water starts to turn the tide.

We walk back to the fruit lady and she cuts a pineapple up for us, we also get the soursop. She is very funny. You just slice it open, peel it back and eat it, she says as she gives a mildly erotic mime demonstration. I say that soursop is probably one of the most misnamed things on the planet, she agrees and tells a story about a lady who was very concerned about the name because she hates sour things.

We stop and get a couple of mangos from another vendor. By now the vitamin waters are gone and I can tell Im on the mend which makes me very happy. We make another stop at a Rasta shop, get some oranges and he shows us his carvings. He is very good, a very high polish on most of his pieces. Most of his good stuff is in the 4000-8000J range but I ask him what he has for 1000J. I have a good friend at home with a tiki bar and I want to bring him a souvenir. He shows me a small, more roughly worked cedar Bob Marley head. Bingo.

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## Guirigay

We eat the pineapple on the road back to HSH. We get back to the room and cut a mango up. Im feeling almost human again. We spend a little time on the verandah and Im feeling a lot better. We run field of vision checks on the balcony and discover there is only the corner in the right for semi-privacy and only at night. Some of the verandah games will need to find a new playing field.

We suit up and head down for some time on the sundecks and our first swim in the sea. We stop and grab a couple of drinks, Im not quite ready to jump all the way back in, I order just a Ting. We start down the stairs to the sea. We had walked down them last night in the dark which was a little sketchy with just my iphone flashlight. In the daylight they look spectacular. A series of crisscrossing stairs and bridges traverse between multiple sun decks and dives, all at different levels eventually leading down to a sea access deck with a ladder.

We set up on the farthest west deck, orienting the chairs to the track of the sun. We break out the books, Hunger Games for Sweetie Pie and Im reading Lamb: The Gospel According to Biff by Christopher Moore. I notice that Sweetie Pie is using an unusual bookmark. Did you fold up Beautiful Dreamer to use as a bookmark? I ask. Yes, she replies coyly, I want to always remember where I am.

I tell her about what I was thinking this morning about being sick in paradise. She agrees and says she didnt mind too much, she is devouring the book. I tell her my biggest disappointment about this morning was I had intended on waking her with a whisper in the ear, Beautiful Dreamer, Awake Unto Me! She likes that.

I point out an interesting visual effect that minds of a particular persuasion find interesting. Sweetie Pie is not of that persuasion so she is usually interested when I can describe or show something to her that sort of explains things a little. When you sit on a deck on the edge of a cliff you can set yourself so that as you look out to sea you can have an uninterrupted view of the sky and sea stretching to the horizon through the extent of your peripheral vision. Because there is little to nothing for your brain to process in context to other objects and the focal point of the horizon is so far way it is very easy to slip into a 2 dimensional mode of processing the image. It can be as if your staring at the most amazing painting youve ever seen. If you turn your head steadily and quickly to the cliff behind you are suddenly presented with an incredibly 3 dimensional surface at very close focus. It can play some fun mind games with you. Sweetie Pie finds it NEARLY as fascinating as I do.

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## Guirigay

Sweetie Pie slips back into her book. Im reading a little but am prepared to spring a plan. Its Sunday afternoon, I check the sea every once in a while for a sailboat. When I notice one coming I point it out to Sweetie Pie. As she watches I serenade her with Downstream by Supertramp. 

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZN_7mHDknyM


Its time for a swim. We stop at the deck above the sea access level and take a gander; its maybe an 8 foot dive. Sweetie Pie has a reticent look on her face. We didnt bring down our snorkel gear so I recommend we just swim today off of the access deck. She agrees and we go down and dive in. We swim for a bit, the water is just perfect. Cool enough to refresh you, warm enough to stay in for a long time. Sweetie Pie swims back to the access deck and scurries up to the 8 foot deck looking ready to jump. Shes so adventurous. She starts toward the edge and hesitates. Do you want me to go first? I ask. A nod and a smile bring me out of the water. I take the leap but because I dont know how deep the water is I open my elbows out as I hit the water. It stops me shallow but even from only 8 feet it puts a nice little smack on my triceps. Sweetie Pie jumps in after me and keeps her feet together and her hands tucked in at her side. She goes down further than I expect her to, further than I did. She comes up smiling and excited, we swim around for a while and get back out.



The sea shower on the cliffs at HSH is unique. One of the deck platforms was built to extend back between the cliff and a very large rock that has cleaved off of it. From the resort at the top of the cliff you cross a cement stair bridge to reach the top of this large rock where the stairs continue to meander down. The piping for the shower runs down from the side of the bridge and the shower is directly under the bridge. This creates a very cool secluded shower spot with some incredible views.

As I head over to turn on the shower I hear Sweetie Pie say, Oh, Ive cut myself pretty bad! I wish this was the first time Id heard Sweetie Pie utter those words! I look over and her left foot looks like its covered in blood. Mild panic sets in, we grab a towel and quickly realize that the water was making it look worse than it is. Still, she has a coral cut that has broken well through the skin. We quickly rinse off at the sea shower and head up to the room. We run into Charlie and when he sees Sweetie Pies foot he runs off to grab something he cant remember the name of. He returns with hydrogen peroxide and we rinse out the wound.

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## Guirigay

We decide to get cleaned up for sunset and dinner, a brief conversation as were both down with Chicken Lavish. We come down for drinks at the bar and sunset. A couple more dirty bananas! Yes, Im back! As were having our drink Charlie drops by and says a friend of his is there that he lets come in once a week to sell his wares. Hes a good guy, Charlie says. Sure, well look at his stuff. So The Original Wicker Man comes over. He has a great spiel. Nothing is definitive, everything is negotiable until we find agreement that satisfies both parties Hes really good, I like him. He does some really nice stuff with wicker. He explains the whole process of harvesting and preparing the vines then working them. Cool stuff but were not going to buy any wicker, we have virtually zero souvenir space. Sweetie Pie asks about necklaces and he pulls out a load of them. A lot of stone and anthracite stuff that could come from anywhere, Sweetie is asking about the origin of all the necklace materials. She starts to look at the coconut shell necklaces. Wicker Man says he polished them all himself. They are very nice and very Jamaica. Sweetie Pie tries one on and its beautiful. Wicker Man takes the opportunity to gaze at Sweetie Pies breast. This necklace falls perfectly on your chest, he says. I smile because he is truly right. I tell her she is giving the go ahead for a lot of guys to ogle her this week, theyll just be able to say Beautiful necklace or Where did you get that? but I dont mind, both her and the necklace are deserving of attention. We make a deal for $20 US. Sweetie Pie gets a lot of comments on the necklace over the week.

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## Guirigay

Sweetie Pie had asked for wine last night but someone had run off with the corkscrew so we couldn’t have any. Tonight we have a couple of glasses at sunset. It’s a beauty. Everyone is gearing up for the Super Bowl but Sweetie Pie has virtually no interest in watching televised sports so we hang out with a few other guests at the bar until just before the game starts and then we head to Chicken Lavish.

We head down the road, Sweetie Pies first venture out at night. She is wearing her Golden Goddess sandals, not a lot of protection. We work on our safe walking plan. In her sandals she walks on the very edge of the road with me off the road until we see oncoming traffic, then it’s off the road and walking if the side is OK or off the road and stop if it isn’t. Over the week we get really good at what side of the road to be on at any given section. Facing traffic whenever possible but sometimes it’s better to be on the other side depending on curves and walls and trees and dogs and touts.

We are the first dinner guests a Lavish, it was probably pretty slow until after the game. We order Conch soup, share a three piece and get some Red Stripes. 1700J!! The cook asks if we want fries or rice and peas. I say rice and peas and Sweetie Pie says fries. I’m trying to talk her into the rice and peas and she asks the cook if he’ll do half and half. As I continue to try to talk Sweetie into rice the cook gets my attention, “The lady would like half and half,” he says with a wry smile.”We’ll have half and half,” I say. “excellent choice!” says the cook.

We settle into the people watching table in the corner against the back wall. I love the dining room at Chicken Lavish, it’s a big covered open air affair with a lot of tables and you can tell it gets hopping. Unfortunately it’s a slow night. Conch soup – amazing. I want a gallon of it. It sets the standard for the week as far as soup goes and I will have some good ones. The chicken without the sauce is kind of like southern fried, we didn’t sauce it because of my stomach. Fortunately this is the last time we have to worry about how spicy anything is. Chicken Lavish slaw – amazing. Tangy, crunchy, ever so slightly sweet. Great rice and peas but what totally surprises me are the fries. They are perfect. Extremely crispy outside but not overdone. They are still soft and tender inside. A lot  of places in Negril seem to have figured out great french fries but I believe Lavish has the best. They may be the best I’ve EVER had.

We finish up our dinner and one other couple has come in to dine and somebody else has stopped by for takeout. It is like a private dining room almost as the other couple has taken the table as physically far apart from us as possible. I turn to Sweetie Pie and ask, “Are you satisfied?” “For food,” she replies. “Well, let’s see if there are any other desires I can help you with…”

We stop by the kitchen on the way out to give our respects and have a nice conversation with chef and the cook. The cook says, “I’ve been cooking 13 years and Chef been at it 30.” It shows.

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## Guirigay

We amble home and I tell Sweetie the best thing about being sick today is we still had a great day and now we have another first full day in Jamaica ahead of us tomorrow. We stop at the bar at HSH and have a nightcap then up to the verandah for a little bit. I read her Wild Nights by Emily Dickinson. She is absolutely one of the great poets and to know her own personal story and then read some of the things she was able to write, well, she was an incredible soul 

Wild Nights
By Emily Dickinson

Wild nights! Wild nights!
Were I with thee,
Wild nights should be
Our luxury!

Futile the winds
To a heart in port,
Done with the compass,
Done with the chart.

Rowing in Eden!
Ah! the sea!
Might I but moor
To-night in thee!

Shortly after we settle in it starts to rain, then it starts to rain hard. We doze off in each others arms to the sounds of a tropical rainstorm.

I awake a few hours later, the storm has passed but its still windy. I get up and sit out on the verandah for a while. The first few nights in the tropics are always a little restless for me as my body adapts, maybe a little more so with the sick and all the sleeping I did today. I listen to the wind rustle through the palm just off our balcony and notice the sound of the rain water being blown off the palm leaves. It is magical. I feel very much at peace. I think that I am in the right place at the right time with the right person. Sweetie, are you up? Yes, Sweetie, I couldnt sleep but Im coming to bed

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## brasi

Great..!  Your explanation of the road games...and the romance...pics...perfect...more please.   :Smile:

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## Aimbri

It was nice meeting you guys, nice story. The best to both of you. Carry on.

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## Guirigay

Respect Brasi, thank you.

Aimee and Brian - right back at you. Pub Crawl won for Most Fun at the awards banquet!  :Smile:  Did you see the pic I posted on Newfies thread?

I'm trying to write things up a day at a time so it may be a few days before the next installment. The next few days on the rock were awesome. What am I saying? Every day there was awesome  :Smile:

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## vikman

guirigay
Thanks for the report good reading and glad you had a good time. Thanks for the photo's of HSH looking at them thinking next Tuesday can not get here soon enough.
Nick

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## rastalady

Very nice writing. I'm really enjoying your story.
Thanks

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## M_and_H

What a beautiful story..thank you for sharing..can't wait for more

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## Jim-Donna

Great Song, I had not heard it before. PERFICT Day and location.

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## Jim-Donna

OUCH! She is LOVELY, and I like the neckless too. I have one too.

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## Jim-Donna

"I feel very much at peace. I think that I am in the right place at the right time with the right person."

PERFECTION~~

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## Jim-Donna

We will be waiting......................TAP.............TAP..  .............TAP~~

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## Guirigay

Sweetie Pies circadian rhythms and mine are pretty well in sync for the most part. On her own she normally gets up a little earlier than me but together we seem to fall into a pattern of slowly waking,  snuggling, dozing and reawakening that starts sometime before six and usually has us up by 6:30. In Negril the dance seems to start a little earlier. The first few nights we dont sleep real soundly and there is a rooster somewhere well down the road that likes to get his first crow in around 4:30. My kinda rooster. He certainly is not loud enough to wake you from a slumber as later nights will attest but as I lie in a semi-lucid half sleep I hear him and check my watch. He is pretty consistent through the week.

Darkness breaks about 5:30 and with each roust from the dozing we check the light past the verandah. Just before 6:30 we get up. I notice that across the courtyard there is a suite on top of the kitchen area that has a stairway up to its roof. Yesterday we couldnt see the sun actually come up from our verandah and I can tell this roof top has a great view. We dress and walk over. We are greeted by one of the better sunrises we will have this week, a pulsing, ever changing show of color on some whispery clouds perfectly spaced between us and the sun. We stand quiet for the most part, Sweetie Pies back pressed against my chest, my arms around her waist.



I love to find a spot where you can watch sunrise or sunset and turn around to see the opposite horizon. I find that often the light play behind you at these times can be as or more impressive than the sun itself. Sunrise in Negril offers the opportunity to watch darkness descend out across the Caribbean and our location is perfect. It does not disappoint today. A fishing boat headed out to the reef goes by and I have an incredible sensation of providence. I feel good, the sun is up and were in paradise. I turn to Sweetie Pie,Coffee? Oh, yeah!



Coffee is very important to both Sweetie Pie and me. Blue Mountain coffee is very high on our anticipation list for this trip. Unfortunately, the restaurant coffee at HSH is one of the few disappointments we have with the place. Later in the week we notice some guests renting a percolator from Charlie but today all we know is the coffee yesterday was not up to our standards. Really, not even close. Sweetie Pie swears it is instant and Im not going argue with her. It was not good. So on our walk into town yesterday we kept our eyes out for a coffee stop. Sweetie Pie remembers one that stood out to her but doesnt remember the name. I remember a nice looking cliff side shack that said Blue Mountain Coffee in big letters. We head out.

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## Guirigay

Its shortly after sunrise but there is already a fair bit of activity about. Its fairly quiet though as it seems to be a lot of watering, gardening, sweeping and raking. There are a lot more friendly greetings of passing at this time of the morning. Sweetie Pie has loaded up one of her cargo pockets with dog treats and she is very excited. We pass a street dog at one of the lane intersections and Sweetie Pie tries to give it a treat. The poor guy is extremely timid and wont go for it. Sweetie Pie is disappointed and says,Now I feel really stupid, maybe this wasnt a good idea. Caring is never a bad idea, I tell her and give her a kiss. This poor, frightened dog is the only one all week who avoids Sweetie Pies treats.

We pass Mi Yard, home of the latest and earliest cup of coffee in Negril. I tell Sweetie Pie well head back there if the Blue Mountain option falls through. We do end up having a very memorable cup of coffee there later. Just ahead on the water side of the road are a series of shacks all connected to each other, a nice little bar set back in one and the Blue Mountain coffee shack at the end on the right. The windows are propped up but the door isnt open and we call but no one comes to the door. Sweetie Pie says this isnt the one she was thinking of anyway. We walk a few more yards down the road and she says, There it is!

There is a young man standing out on the road looking a little groggy. He greets us and asks what were doing today. Looking for some good coffee, Sweetie Pie says. This is the place, mon! Here, come on in, Ill take care of you. Im not really sure exactly where we are at the moment. We enter through a gate between the German Bar and a large multi-story sort of Spanish looking building with a nice garden shaded verandah on the front and a PADI dive shop in back. There are all sorts of different signs around  German Bar, Marys Bay, the PADI shop, Easy Rock, Internet Caf and several others. We head toward the verandah.

Late night, big party, Superbowl, says our hopeful barista. Initially were not quite sure if he is coming in or going home when we show up. We tell him well take a to go cup if he has them if hes trying to get out. No, no, he says, Ive got nice big mugs you can walk around here with but theyre not to go. He starts in on what are obviously opening up chores. Have a look around, He says,Ill let you know when the coffee is ready.

Now I love this about Jamaica but I can see how it can frustrate certain personalities. He DOES NOT start on the coffee. He has a few other get the place going things hes going to do every day regardless of circumstances. Getting the coffee going is probably somewhere between 6-10 on his list. So we walk around and look at the property. It is a gorgeous location that I will go into some more detail on later.

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## Guirigay

On the large patio between the German Bar and the big building we meet the German Bar dogs, Ganja and Jamaica. Ganja is a sort of scruffy looking dog, Jamaica has the classic look of a Jamaican street dog. Sweetie Pie is ecstatic. Her first accepted biscuit of the week goes to Jamaica. I know youre taken care of and these arent supposed to be for you but youre just so cute! she says.



 We come back and have a chat while site prep continues. We learn our coffee gods name  Max. Max is a big sports guy and the BBC sports feed comes on the speakers. We talk a lot of Futbol, I have played, coached and refed in my day. I tell Max about my experiences watching Jamaican matches, chain link fences and barb wire separating fans from players, usually only by inches. Yah, mon, were crazy, he says. Max wont say too much but it seems he was a player of some repute in his younger days. Coffee still isnt ready but were in no rush. We chat away while Max goes about his chores.

Eventually the magic elixir is ready and Max pours us a couple of mugs. Now what were you saying about rum cream down here? asks Sweetie Pie. Max grabs one of the small bottles off the shelf behind him. We crack it and turn a perfect cup of coffee into a little bit of heaven. We head out to drink our coffee on the German Bar pier. Im going to say this right now, if you know of a more romantic place to share a cup of coffee early in the morning than the pier at the German Bar, youve got something very special.

Notice the pocket full of dog biscuits Sweetie Pie is toting



We head back in for another mug, black this time to take in all the flavor. What always amazes me about Blue Mountain is you can make it quite strong and it never gets bitter. Max makes it strong and its delicious. Lots of people come for my coffee, he says and we believe him. Nice Krups slow drip machine. Not French press but excellent drip coffee. Sweetie Pie is taking a shine to Max which cracks me up a little. He might be the most sport crazed man we meet the whole week, not her usual cup of joe. This is now her place and I dont think there is a second were there the rest of the trip that the BBC sports feed isnt playing.
We settle up and head out. 900j for 4 big mugs of coffee and the rum cream. We forgot the rum cream and Max comes running after us. Well bring it back tomorrow, we say with big smiles.

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## Guirigay

Back to HSH we head. We eat some fruit for breakfast, a mango and the soursop. If you are ok with your fingers getting sticky wet a soursop may be the most sensual and fun fruit you can ever share with your lover. I’m just going to leave it at that. The flavor is creamy and sweet with just a slight pineapple-citrus finish. I love them.

We prep for the water. We have SPF water shirts but we slather on the sunblock on our necks, ears, calves and my scalp. We’re going to snorkel today. Down to the sea deck we go. Sweetie Pie, with one hand on the sea ladder, attempts to lean over and wet her mask. I see more injuries in her future and pull her back. I show her the safe way to enter the water with fins, mask and a sea ladder. One foot on the ladder toes pointing out to sea, swing the other foot over and on, step down until you can sit on a ladder step. Hold you’re mask down, don’t reach for the water, wait for a wave to come up to your mask. Big loogie (I have to do this for her)wipe, rinse, smush the mask on your face, breath in through your nose to pull it tight.

Soon we’re in the water and heading east along the cliffs. There are lots of small coral and boulder canyons running in this direction, great for snorkel diving. I try to show Sweetie Pie how to dive but she just flails at the surface. She has a hard time pulling herself far enough below the surface to get the power from our large scuba flippers to drive her down. It’s cute and funny. She’s not getting it so we move on. I point out a large gar fish and she gets so excited she sucks in water. I can hear this even though I’m submerged. She comes up choking and laughing, a strange combination.

We get down to Blue Horizon West and I point out a sea ladder where we can get out and take a break. I show Sweetie Pie how to get out on a sea ladder, basically entering in reverse. It always feels a little strange to go up a ladder backwards. Unlike the nicely tilted ladder at HSH the Blue Horizon ladder is a little more vertical making it even more peculiar. The shoreline at Blue Horizon is very broken up, from HSH it doesn’t look like more than stairs down to a rough platform with a sea ladder. When you get over there you can see that at one time it was a very nice series of stairs, platforms and perches. Now it has been seriously worn down by the sea and old steel handrails and crumbled concrete dot the shoreline. It’s a very dramatic spot.

There is a young man enjoying a sub in a secluded spot amongst the rocks that we couldn’t see until we were up on the sea deck. We nod and smile at each other. We grab a spot on some steps out of his view and chill for a while. It is a very nice spot. We gear up and head back out but Sweetie Pie notices a plastic bottle floating in the water and it irritates her. Once in the water she tracks it down then heads back toward the sea deck to throw it out. Her first throw is unsuccessful so she recaptures the rogue bottle and gets closer to throw it out. The bottle makes it out but I hear Sweetie Pie say,”Oh, ouch, dammit!” I wish this was the first time I had heard those words from Sweetie Pie.

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## Guirigay

We snorkel back to HSH and check out the area where we jumped. Its probably only 7 or 8 feet deep where she went in. If only shed had her scuba shoes on We scope out the landing areas for some of the other jumps but I have a feeling were done with jumping this trip.

We head for the ladder. Sweetie Pie easily negotiates the nicely tilted HSH ladder. We hit the sea shower, its very nice.

On our way up we run into Robert and Carol, a nice couple from Canada we met last night. Robert sees Sweetie Pies foot and runs up to get a tube of Bacitricin. This ends up being very helpful for Sweetie Pie through the week. Robert tells a very funny snail joke, perfectly slow played until the punch line.

Back at the room we change and as we are chilling on the verandah our driver Chris shows up. We beg off the Percys trip but schedule Mayfield Falls for Friday. Since we want to rush nothing this week we tell him 10:30 departure. Another perfect day lies in our future.

We decide were walking up the cliffs today so after dressing we head out. We get to Samsara and I start to tell Sweetie Pie about my last trip here with the ex and the kids. We spent one night at Samsara and hated it, walked up the lane the next day and saw Xtabi, I told the ex that it was an amazing place but I didnt think they allowed kids. From over the wall a gardener says, Oh sure we do! and proceeds to pitch me on the place. We talk for literally five minutes about a variety of things, hes trying to sell me on the place the whole time. We never see each other but he convinces to go up to registration, we get a room and move in for an incredible week. The entire staff called me Family Mon the whole time. It holds a special place for me and my kids. I tell her Im a little anxious, she squeezes my hand and kisses me.

Xtabi is every bit as beautiful as I remember it. We go in and grab a table under the roof. We order a couple of Red Stripes and conch burgers. The Stripes show and I ask if we have time before the burgers for me to show Sweetie Pie the caves. Of course I know the answer is Yah, mon but really just want to let the waiter know well be gone for a few.

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## Guirigay

We go down the beach cave first, Sweetie Pie thinks it is just too cool. Up and over to the boulder cave next. I show Sweetie the sea window and say were supposed to come back and take a picture. She says it would make a great picture. It is all pretty emotional for me, even now Im feeling tings of pain thinking about wandering the caves with my kids, swimming with my ex, sitting on the decks. Im glad to be there with Sweetie Pie though and the excitement and wonder in her eyes is clearly visible. It makes me happy. Lets go eat a conch burger! I say.

Now the Xtabi conch burger is a singular thing of perfection. My understanding of this fact would come to pay some very nice dividends later in the week. Today it pays off in a sublime lunch. It is an amazing creation. I dont know how they manage to hold all the conch together, there doesnt seem to be any breading. It is just giant delicious mouthful of conch after giant delicious mouthful. It is ecstasy on a bread bun, a taste bud orgasm, food porn. Sweetie Pie is enjoying it nearly as much as me.

We are somewhere short of 48 hours on the island. Sweetie Pie turns to me and says,We are coming back to Negril! He swings CRACK!!... Oh my, he got all of that ladies and gentlemen Its going, going Im taking the slow trot, only this ones hand in hand

We head down the path close to the road after lunch and run into a gardener. I wonder if he is the same man I talked to all those years ago. He asks if were staying there and I tell him, Not this time, but Ive stayed here before and will be bringing her back. He smiles and says, Oh, taking her to the cave. We wind through the cliff side cottages and I point out some of the views. I wonder which cottage Rum and Mrs. Peel were in. We head down to the bar cave. Sweetie Pie is fascinated. I show her the blow hole pool and we watch it fill and drain for a while. We make pirate talk double entendres and steal a moment.

On the way out we run into the gardener again. How was it, mon? he asks. I think thats my favorite cave, I say, It always reminds me of A pirate cave, the gardener finishes my sentence with a huge smile, Yah, mon! I pay my respects on his work, the gardens at Xtabi are always beautiful. I tell him Im going to take Sweetie Pie across the road to his best work, he smiles again.

We go across to the garden side and I get a little anxious again as I fall back in time. My kids played with the owners children at the pool and inside the beautiful house behind it. I wonder how those kids are doing, how my kids are doing. I look up at the balcony where my ex and I shared so many evenings. I pull myself back to the present and try to give Sweetie Pie a little tour. The garden side at Xtabi is almost like a horticultural garden. Few plants are repeated in the design but all are in very good condition, a true testament to the gardeners skills.

----------


## Guirigay

We head up the road, Sweetie Pie wants to check out Rockhouse. This is the part of the cliffs that shows the most change since my last visit. Lots of high stone walls on each side of the road, pretty disappointing. Rockhouse is, however, gorgeous. I had tried to book the low end rooms both here and at Tensing Pen for this trip but they were full. I tell the gate guard this and that I had been told to stop by for a tour if I could make it. We get a very nice tour of the place and even get a garden room opened up for us to have look. There will be a stay here at some point in our future. We stop by the restaurant to try to make reservations for the Rock Table. We are taken to 3 different people before an attractive, very professional looking lady pulls out a reservation book. There is some funny back and forth between some of the staff, looking at us, looking at the reservation book, looking at each other and back at us. Finally the boss lady says, Tomorrow? We have seatings at 5, 7 and 9, which would you prefer? Well wed like to be here for sunset, so 5 we think. We offer a complimentary one way shuttle, would you like us to pick you up? Sure Well be there at 4:45 They were.

So Im walking on clouds as we leave, Id been unsure if wed be able to get the Rock Table and now we have it. The Evil Dr. Yes makes an appearance. That looks incredible doesnt it? I ask Sweetie Pie. I cant believe were going to eat there, she says. Thursday night will be better I taunt. We have a little back and forth.

A lovely walk up the road brings us to Tensing Pen and the same story gets us another nice tour. We are left at the bar, we get a drink and go down to the cliff edge. Sweetie Pie marvels at the difference in the cliffs here and the walkways that have been cut into them. We soak it up for a while.

We continue up the road and I point out other spots I remember. As we approach Catcha I try to engage Sweetie Pie in conversation and we walk right past the sign without her even noticing. Success!! We make it to Ricks and before we even head in she says, It looks very touristy. I smile. We walk in and Im almost immediately hit up by a diver, I give him a couple 100J. We walk to the edge and look at the jump cove. Sweetie Pie says, Thats impressive. She looks around the cliff and says, This is not. Im not kidding, were inside the gates at Ricks less than ten minutes. If I had a watch my guess is it would be closer to five minutes. Lets go to Seastar and get a drink, she says. We dont even wait for a diver to jump. I am in love with this girl

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## Guirigay

I keep Sweetie Pies attention by telling stories from the board about Seastar until we turn up the lane, she is completely clueless about the existence of Catcha Falling Star. We roll up to the bar and Im really impressed with the premises. The bar and restaurant area is huge and the new woodwork is very nice, a lot of carving on all the posts. We order up drinks and I remind Sweetie Pie of one of my strong trip desires. I have really been looking forward to a bar that doesnt have problems with self-catering. I know Seastar is sub sandwich friendly. She smiles as I grab a snack.

Now my only problem with Seastar is they have CNN on the TV as were hanging at the bar. Sweetie Pie cant resist and occasionally grabs a look. Eventually I have to drag her over to the couches, out of earshot of the TVs. We snuggle up and sip away. After a couple of dirty bananas and Red Stripes we notice a van pull in with new guests. Who pops out of the drivers door? Its Percy! We chat a few times as he goes by. He says he saw Chris and hopes we enjoy Mayfield. We tell him about wanting to go out to his place but not wanting to go with the Indys. I sort of hint at why we dont want to share their company and he says, Yah, mon, I know what you mean. We talk about coming out to his place for a day or two when we come back with HH and Coolbook. We ask him about camping there. HH and Coolbook spent three months backpacking through Costa Rica and Percys would be like the Ritz. No ones ever done it but well work something out, He smiles. We have his card.

Percy is hanging out, he says hell run us back to HSH when were ready. I go up to the bar for a couple more drinks. Sweetie Pie says she is going to lay down on the couch for a little bit. As Im gathering the bottles the bartender gets a concerned look on her face as she glances over to the couches. Is she OK? she asks. I turn around to see Sweetie Pie fully laid out on the couch with an arm up over her head. I start to bust out laughing. All the BOARDIE DOWN stories come rushing through my head, particularly TicTocs story that took place on those very couches! Shes OK, I inform her, Just resting. Well you just keep her resting right there, she says, Happy hour is about to start and Percy will take you home when youre ready. So here is another thing I have to say  Seastar staff is awesome.

A little chill later Percy gets a phone call. When he hangs up he says, We can go whenever youre ready. This makes me smile, its such a kind, passive way of saying what he really meant. Brilliant. We can go now if youve got business Percy. Yah, mon! says Percy with a smile and were off.

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## Guirigay

Back at HSH we settle in for a little late afternoon nap. Its a good one. We slowly drift back to consciousness on the sounds of guitar and an amazing voice coming in faintly from the restaurant. How about a quick swim, catch the sunset then Bentleys? I ask Sweetie Pie. Sounds perfect, come the reply. We throw our suits on and head down.

We head past the bar and find Charlie playing guitar with Steve, a guest we had seen show up with his acoustic last night. We dont make it to the sea. Steve is a repeat visitor to HSH and always tries to get Charlie to play with him. They sound great. Steves lady Terry has a monster voice. Most of the guests at HSH have gathered in the bar this evening and things start to get really fun. Drinking and singing and snacking and laughing on the cliffs of Negril at sunset. Terry tells Steve to play Supertramp. I laugh and say, Do you know this one? and knock out the first few lines of Downstream. Terry smiles and says, No, but Ill bet you know this one. Steve kicks into the intro to Give a Little Bit. Charlie comes in and then Terry and I sing it. We sound half decent, Im having a blast. I turn to Sweetie Pie to serenade her and just about bust out laughing. Shes picked up The Hunger Games and is reading away. She looks at me and I get an air smooch and then shes back in the book. Not the same impact as the cliffs yesterday!  :Big Grin:  

Now dont get me wrong, Im a hack singer but I am the product of 16 years of Catholic education which means a lot of choir and singing in church. I can carry a tune that I practice. Steve and Charlie and Terry are playing enough stuff that I know that I can kick in and Steve graciously pulls me back to the harmony when I try to run with the melody against Terrys serious pipes. I get several smiles between page turns from Sweetie Pie. After we sing a nice version of Jason Mrazs Im Yours A few people ask how long weve played together. I am floating because Steve and Terry are real, serious talents. Youre very lucky, one night only! jokes Steve. Sweetie Pie finishes her chapter and we try to sing a few things where we can get everybody going but cant find anything that hits for everybody. Things wind down and I get a few more comments that go into the Cant Believe They Said That box.

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## Guirigay

We head out for Bentleys. We had noticed the sign when we were walking up the cliffs this morning and had Percy point it out on the way back to HSH this afternoon. I knew to turn at No Limits, which was hopping and head up the road. I remember a story about someone asking a taxi to drop them off at Bentleys and being taken to the wrong restaurant. We pass the wrong restaurant. As we approach Bentleys a man is coming down the stairs. Before we can really ask he is saying Yah, mon, this is the place, go on up, you gonna enjoy this! We get up to the deck and there is Bentley talking with a couple of young girls. They turn to us with very big smiles, Hello! Are you Bentley? we ask. Yah, mon, thats me, Bentley! I am so happy, We came for crab cakes! Im going to cook you some crab cakes! says Bentley and he starts to move. I dont think he really stopped moving until he sat down with us at dinner much later.

He goes into his bit which I dont want to repeat entirely cause its his and its great. Some of my favorite phrases, which get repeated every now and then  Im going to cook for you if he does, youre lucky. Once he starts this is replaced by Im cooking for you. Five things which is the number of things youll get on youre plate if you order the crab cakes, all awesome. You need another beer? cause you will, and if you understand where you are and what youre doing and who youre with you wont care if its the third or fourth or fifth time hes asked since he started cooking for YOU.



A big stocky guy with a clean shaven head shows up to a raucous greeting from Bentley. He knows I am going to write something up but I didnt ask his name so for the sake of discretion Im just going to call him ScubaPro. Bentley is very upset that ScubaPro didnt call him earlier, he said he would. They banter back and forth and the make good is that ScubaPro has to cook dinner for Bentley. Turns out ScubaPro is boarding with Bentley. He gets underway butchering a chicken for himself and Bentley. The Barrel gets its fire going.

Were just a few slugs into our first Stripe lights  Refreshing, light, You can drink a lot of them! is Bentleys selling point  When Sweetie Pie scoots her seat and knocks over her beer and has most of it end up in her lap. Bentley and ScubaPro laugh when they see it. A lot of beers get spilled at that table! they say.



We talk to ScubaPro as he is preparing the fire. He is a very high end diver, the toughest dive work out there. Zero visibility stuff. I comment on the mental focus and toughness required for that kind of work, the need to keep your spatial awareness in a world with no physical cues. He digs that, says most people dont get that at all and if they do its not until theyve known him for awhile. There is some serious mutual effective flattery going on.

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## Guirigay

ScubaPro is recounting his day to us and Bentley. He finished on the beach with a massage and a pedicure. We ask about the massage as we had checked out the spa at Rockhouse today. I went to one of those dollar a minute ladies on the beach, he says. We laugh and I say, I dont think ours would be as fun as yours, thinking hes speaking in euphemism. He isnt, there are dollar a minute masseuses on the beach. Sweetie Pie says, Youre pretty unusual, most guys wouldnt admit to getting a pedicure. I cant help it, Im thinking of Fabs at that very moment. ScubaPro shrugs his shoulders and we move on.

Another young man comes up the steps, a little taller, dark haired and thinner. He sits down and starts talking with Bentley and ScubaPro. He is boarding with Bentley also, been here for a couple of weeks. Hes known Bentley for a couple of years now, been down multiple times after a disability. The talkabout continues.

We talk about how things are going for Bentley. I say, Youre sorta famous on parts of the internet. Yah, mon, Bentley beams,  Im famous in places! I tell him I found him on Negril.com, he wants details. Ive seen my picture on the computer, he says. Yeah, theres good stories out there, I reply. Like what? he wants to know. Do you remember an attractive lady up here a couple of weeks ago who had too much cake? Bentley and ScubaPro bust out laughing, Oh Yeah, that was a wild night! Who posted THAT story? Bentley asks. The gentleman who was with her, I think. Bentley looks a little quizzical as he puts it together. Really? Yeah mon, Im famous.

We marvel at the crazy Rube Goldberg phone and power pole across the street. Its got a wild post-modern industrial art quality to it. We decide the camera cant possibly do it justice but also decide we will return with better gear.

In what seems like just exactly the right amount of time the food shows up. It is a plate to shame other plates. Everything is delicious. The cakes are perfect and the magic sauce is, ummm, well named. I dont generally go overboard for sauces with a sweet tinge, but this is an exception. Pick your favorite over the top adjective  there you go. Forget about calories when you go to Bentleys, he is tight with butter and your taste buds will thank him for that.



After my first few bites I turn to Bentley in the kitchen, hes cleaning up a little and ScubaPro is putting the finishing touches on their dinner, and I say, Im going to put a post up along the lines of What the heck are you doing, go the heck to Bentleys!! but Im a whole lot more profane. Bentley and ScubaPro bust out at this again. See, I told you its going to happen, Bentley says to ScubaPro. I sincerely hope so but it will be without my helpful thread, even the wild carded profanities were unacceptable.

I really dont know how long we sit there, it is awhile. Bentley and ScubaPro eat their dinners, somehow ScubaPro has snuck a giant lobster onto the grill as well. He is moaning over it as we look over. He lifts up a fist sized chunk of tail meat. Fresh from the sea today! He smiles. Bentleys Boarder says hes wiped out and is going to catch a nap.

As we are sitting around shooting the breeze there comes a point when Bentley can't take his eyes off of Sweetie Pie. "You look like a movie star," He says in his sweetest patter. I smile because I can't disagree, "You got that right mon!"

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## Guirigay

I ask Bentley if I can have a picture with him. He calls me into the kitchen. I am honored.



We box up the leftovers and hope the kitchen is open when we get back to HSH as we do not have a refrigerator. In no particular hurry we find our way down the stairs telling Bentley we will be back. We head back down the lane. No Limits is even more hopping and things are starting to pick up over at PeeWees. We look at each other and turn right headed to Home Sweet Home.



The kitchen is closed when we get back and we don’t see anyone about. Without a fridge we make a truly dogmanitarian sacrifice. Sorry, Bentley, tomorrow the street dogs of Negril will eat like kings.

Neither one of us has had a full nights sleep since Wednesday. We are feeling it. We wind down and are laying on the bed, Sweetie Pies head on my chest. “I have a poem for you Sweetie, do you want to let me up?” “No, Sweetie, I want you to stay right here where I’m close to your heart.” I reach up and turn off the light. We sleep the sleep of the justified.

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## Patty Sather

:EEK!:  what a fabulous story so far..you guys are just awesome together....very nice report!

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## Guirigay

Tuesday

Pre-dawn peeks through the open verandah doors this morning glimpse a cloudless sky. We rise and step out onto the balcony, not a cloud can be found. Beach day, I think. Oh yeah!

With little chance of a color show we decide to watch the sunrise from our verandah. We catch the first rays hitting the top of the pine near the reception office. The dingy grays of pre-dawn slowly fade, pierced by tropical brightness in spots as the angle of the sun rises. As Sweetie Pie admires the courtyard I grab the poem for last night. I recite to her:

Eros

A poem by Ralph Waldo Emerson

The sense of the world is short,
Long and various the report,
To love and be beloved;
Men and gods have not outlearned it,
And how oft soe'er they've turned it,
'Tis not to be improved.   

We head down to do some Tai Chi. We stop at the cliff edge on the lawn and look down at the platforms below. Sweetie Pie isnt sure if they are big enough so we set up on the lawn. Im not sure what species of grass the lawn is but it has that soft, luscious, mushy feel to it. There is a part of Tai Chi that involves sensing the transfer of energy through your body from the earth you stand upon. The sensation of connection through this patch of earth is unusual, but very pleasant and peaceful. We do a couple of sets of the first form. We finish and take note of our starting and stopping points. We look down on the platforms again. Tomorrow we will do Tai Chi on the decks!

We head back to the room and have a couple of oranges. Jamaican oranges are super sweet and seedless, we scarf them down. We prep for the beach. Guirigay runs with some serious sunblock. Sweetie Pie lotions up and slips into yet another beautiful outfit off the silver screens of yesteryear.



We pack a shoulder bag and were off for coffee. Sweetie Pie gets her first real taste of the Pied Piper routine that will become part of our daily jaunt. We have the leftovers from Bentleys last night. The first Street dog we meet gets those and he is quickly joined by another. We head off quickly enough that they dont track us down before were out of sight. The next dog, however, becomes a daily routine. Scar has been hurt bad at one point in his life as his newly given name attests. Sweetie Pie pulls a treat from the shoulder bag and Scar is in tow for the rest of our trip to coffee. As we come up to our coffee joint we pay a little more attention and figure out that were having coffee at Easy Rock which is also an Internet Caf. Max is out front watering the roadside garden looking much more chipper than he did yesterday. He sees Scar in tow and Sweetie Pie tells him about her little program. Somebodys got to do it, he says, Im glad its you cause it wouldnt be me. The unlikely bond grows. Coffee be ready in a little bit.

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## Guirigay

We wander. The views from this sort of conjoined set of properties are excellent. A large patio between Easy Rock and the German Bar leads you to a smaller patio behind the PADI dive shop. This patio has a view to the west that could be shot a thousand times and still produce something new. The backs of the seaside business shacks lead to an old school waterside Jamaican home in front of some trees that separate the house from the ship style bar next door. We stare and swear we are bringing the rig next time. To the east youre looking at Canoe and down the coast toward town. The beach is close enough that you can make out the properties closer to town.

These photos are not from this day but they show the views



We head back into the Caf and sit down at the bar. Max comes in from the back and as hes walking toward me says, Im sorry to tell you mon, but we have a problem. His tone catches me off guard, like we have a REAL PROBLEM. Uh, what? I ask. Youve gotta put your shirt on mon, the health inspector can stop in here anytime and hell give me all sorts of trouble! He pulls a hairnet out of his pocket, I even gotta wear THIS when Im back here! he says and snaps it over his head. I smile at the easily avoided conflict and put my shirt on as coffee is poured.

We finish off the bottle of rum cream, second coffees are downed with more conversation about the Beenie Man show tonight. Maxs phone is Blowing up with phone calls for tickets. I would love to go but dont see Sweetie Pie being able to make it through the first song. I could make it through the FIRST song! insists Sweetie Pie with a smile.

We head out for the beach. We stop at the market at the circle again to get a couple more vitamin waters, sunblock  and change some money. Its early and the lady at the pharmacy says they dont have enough to make the change but shell get it taken care of. Several bounces back and forth with the staff lead to someone going outside and coming in with a money changer! The money exchange goes back and forth between me, the clerk and the money changer. He tries to short me right in front of the clerk! He slips hundreds in the middle of the thousands as he counts it out. I say No, No! and the clerk jumps in. After three tries he gets it right, I think. Sweetie Pie looks at me and says, Whats wrong? Youre making your face. I tell her Ill talk after were out of the store. As we cross the bridge toward the beach I stop and take a surety count. Its Ok but he would have shorted me 1000 if I hadnt paid attention. I clue Sweetie Pie in that I was very frustrated about having to deal with a money changer when I went to a business specifically to avoid a money changer hassle.

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## Guirigay

We head onto the beach at the park just past the craft market. Were walking the water line and the soft lapping of the surf is rolling over our Keens. Sweetie Pie is wearing a shoe length black yoga skirt and it starts to get a little wet at the bottom. She tries to roll the skirt up a little but that doesnt really keep it dry. We stop two or three times as she continues to roll it up. What started out as Rita Hayworth in Rio is devolving into Ma Kettle on Waikiki. What? What?!? Sweetie Pie asks as my smile widens. You little pisser! she exhorts as she smacks me while I giggle.

Shortly we pass a resort with a beach front shop. Hanging beachside are a number of barely there cover ups. Sweetie Pie turns in. She finds a sweet little sheer black handkerchief she can tie around her waist. How much? I ask. $12 US. The clerk goes back inside. While Sweetie Pie was browsing I had been talking to a couple of guys sitting in front of the shop. One is selling boat trips, the other, older gentleman just seems to be hanging out. He leans over to me, gives me the nudge and wink and says, Bargain. I laugh and when the clerk come backs I ask again and get the same answer. How about 600? A laugh. 800? Thats my cost! she says. 900 then. 950, she says with a Deal! reply. The old gentleman is smiling and gives me a tap on the arm when she goes in to make change. I get the change and wait for the clerk to go back in the shop. I turn to the gentleman and say, Have a great day, mon! We rasta shake with the full on finger snap. I hand him the fifty. He smiles and nods.

We continue up the beach. We stop at Merrills II because I love the sea grapes right at the shoreline and I think its a good spot for us to leave the bag while we swim because it has decent security. Plus its hot and we are thirsty. 300j for a decent rum and ting but its ok, were going to swim. After our refreshment and relaxation we head into the water. I dont particularly like the float lined swim area but its big enough to get out where you cant touch bottom. We swim and splash and play. We come into shallower water and sea dance which is a blast and just plain sexy. If you get out to a depth where your shoulders are just above water while your knees are bent you can hold your lover floating in your arms like a baby. At this depth you can twist and turn, run and stop, spin and swoon forever at nearly no effort with you ladys face, neck and bosom laid out for you like a gourmet platter. I highly recommend you try it.

After sun drying and reapplying sun block we head up the beach. We stop at Sunshine Bar and get ice cold Red Stripes for 150J. Ice cold. We sit on the picnic table and have a few. This place is run by the lady from the old For Real bar. Cheap beer, no hassling, great bar. We meet Kim and Kathy and have a nice conversation, they are long timers. You just meet the coolest people in Negril.

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## Guirigay

After a nice stay we continue up the beach until we hit the Boat Bar. We have a couple of Red Stripes and Earl Lockes is there playing his guitar. He plays a couple of songs for us and we dance. A couple of Rastas sitting on the picnic table out front chime in from time to time. Its beautiful, Earl has a great voice. Husband and Wife? he asks. No, we answer. Well this is a song for the love of your life, he says and plays a truly moving song Ive never heard before that is perfectly suited to his gilded voice. We dance like no ones watching but when the song ends we notice thats not the case. We tip him the 400J left from our bar bill and slip to the back of the bar.

As Im chilling in the back of the bar with a sub the bartender comes scurrying back, gestures with her arm and says, Toss it, throw it away! In a moment the cops are walking by. They come up into the bar and look around. This is not like the old days

Earl is out front and pulls out his bullhorn, Come to Alfreds Ocean Palace tonight and he riffs a great Power Radio pitch right there for tonights show. A fella sitting out front next door will have none of it and starts his own pitch when Earl is done. This goes back and forth a few times. Dueling bullhorns, Sweetie Pie and I just about fall out.

We head back up the beach and watch the officers pat down a couple of beach vendors. They meet up with a couple of other officers who are being rock starred by a group of young ladies. Poses and pictures abound. Sweetie Pie says, They must only accept gorgeous men to the academy. It makes sense to me! It does look a bit like a Mighty Quinn casting call. The officers dont seem too inclined to continue patrolling the beach at this time and we leave them behind.

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## Guirigay

In the distance I see the round house at the waters edge and know were coming up to our desired minimum destination  Tree House. I tell Sweetie Pie about my previous experiences there, especially one of my all-time great meals with the ex dining feet away from the waves lapping at the shore. I think we need to grab a bite to eat here! says Sweetie Pie with a smile.

We get a nice table in the round house near the water. Our waitress comes over and introduces herself and her and Sweetie Pie get into a conversation over her name which is spelled the same as Sweetie Pies. Not many people spell it that way, says Sweetie Pie. Well, says the waitress sheepishly, I actually spell it with an E but the manager here misspelled it! Sweetie Pie laughs.

We have just a quarter jerk chicken and an order of saltfish fritters. Its getting late and we have dinner at Rockhouse coming up. Good chicken, great fritters. I fall in love with saltfish and dumplings right there. They are way up high on my list of favorite things. I could, and before the week is out I do, make an entire meal of them. Delicious, hearty, stick with you drinking food and like so many of the incredible Jamaican foods, everybodys is a little different.

There is a group of late forty-something ladies at the table next to us having a hoot of a time. Sweetie Pie is soaking up their vibe and says, Jamaica would be a great place for a girls trip! She starts talking about potential groups and itineraries. She is hooked and it makes me smile.

Sweetie Pie with an E is a great waitress. When the bill comes I give her more than enough to cover it and my last 1000J which I ask to have broken into a 500J and 5 100J. I tell Sweetie Pie I want to leave a nice tip  the 500J and the 100s will get us home in route taxis if we cant negotiate a ride at the gate. As Im telling her this I hear the bartender get seriously bent out of shape with our waitress. I have a good ear and can follow Patois pretty well. He doesnt like making change and especially doesnt like me asking for change above and beyond the order. That is me being kind to the bartender. He doesnt let up. Our waitress walks up front to reception Im guessing. Another waitress who overheard me talking to Sweetie Pie goes over to the bar and tells the bartender we need the change for a taxi and tip. Thats how loud and obnoxious the bartender was. He sort of lets up. We tip our waitress close to 30% in total, she was great, the food was great, the location was great - but we leave on a downer. Dont think Ill go back, I know its a small thing but its stuck, even now, weeks later. Ill be leaving those memories in the dustbin.

On the way out Im asked if I need a taxi. Im half inclined to say no and just flag down a red plate on the road but I say, 500 to Home Sweet Home? Sure Mon, he says and we jump in. Im busted, $100 US on the beach in about 5 hours. We tell the cabbie we walked from HSH this morning. Thats a good walk, he says, Five miles on the road.

We get back and grab about an hour nap before we need to get ready for Rockhouse. Sweetie Pie gets into her serious primp mode, which means shell need about 20 minutes to get ready. You gotta love a low maintenance, high gloss, natural beauty!

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## Guirigay

We walk down to the front gate just before a quarter to five and the van is there waiting. Minutes later were at the entrance to Rockhouse. As we walk into the bar Chef is at a table by the railing with a notebook and hes involved in a lengthy lecture to the ENTIRE staff about what initially seems to be tonights menu. I have family in the restaurant business so I find this fascinating. All good chefs do this nightly with their staff and it feels a little bit like getting to peer behind the curtain. The bartender says it will be just a little bit, would we like a drink. Rum and Tings! We notice the lady who took our reservation yesterday and exchange smiles and nods. She grabs the reservation book and walks over to another well dressed gentleman. They look at the reservation book and then up at us. The well dressed gentleman walks over.

He introduces himself as the manager and asks, Home Sweet Home? It is funny to be addressed as your place of residence. Yes I need to inform you that there will be a photo shoot on the premises this evening and you may be included in it, I hope thats not a problem. Well no, I dont think so, whats it for? Promotional material? No, it turns out there is a Yoga convention in Montego Bay this week and a large group has arranged a special table with Chef Broderick. Its going to be very ornate on a specially set table on the sea deck in the cove below the Rock Table. Dessert is going to be delivered from the sea via a boat. Yoga magazine is going to shoot the whole thing. Sounds interesting.

So your table very likely will show up in some photos, is that OK? No problem, who wouldnt want this lovely lady in their magazine? I ask, She should be on the cover! She IS gorgeous, he says and then he makes my day, But dont sell yourself short, mon, youre not too bad yourself. He pauses briefly for effect, Not too bad at all, mon. WTF!! These freakin Jamaicans! Im going to school on these F'ers, they are masters of the natural compliment!

He says it will be a little bit before our table is ready, please enjoy the resort and they will come get us. Sweetie Pie is concerned that we may have to eat quickly if there is a seating after us. I think the table is ours for the night, Sweetie, I say. It is.

We wander the resort and take some pictures.



We sit in the lobby for a little while and eventually head out to the Rock Table. The special table is being set up below, Chef is overseeing every detail.



We order dinner  Chicken Corn Soup, Crab Salad, Calamari and Old Symting. A bottle of Chardonnay to wash it all down. The view from the Rock Table is great but you cant see the sunset from the table. You need to go to the rail to see it. I check every so often and we snap some pics.



The food is very good and the presentation is top notch. Old Symting is like a Jamaican Bouillabaisse. Crab, lobster, squid and other seafood in a gently spiced broth. The service was very good with my only knock being the soup and appetizer were brought out together. We thoroughly enjoy the dinner and it is very romantic. Sometime during dinner a boat pulls up to the sea deck in what we figure is a dry run for the dessert delivery. It skulks away.

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## Guirigay

We are nearly done with our entre before the Yoginis show up. Sweetie Pie is into yoga and is wondering if shell recognize anyone. She says one lady looks familiar. We order dessert, a key lime cheesecake. It is off the hook. Light and airy yet creamy and rich. Sweetie Pie makes one of the best cheesecakes Ive ever had, she says it doesnt compare to this. 5 hours in a water bath, at least, she says, A lot of work went into this cheesecake. Our waiter confirms its one of chefs specials, only made occasionally. We may not see this again for months, he says, It takes him hours.

My favorite coffee drink in the world is a Jamaican Coffee, just add Appletons and Tia Maria to open the doors to Nirvana. We order a couple. We serve ours with whipped cream, is that OK? asks our waiter. How can that possibly be a problem? What the heck, you might as well bring us the Mango Cake too!



We are sated. The appetizers are showing up on the sea deck. They are ridiculous. Its a simple shrimp cocktail but there is nothing simple about it. On a large charger several LED lights are set. A glass box is on top of this. On top of the glass box is a shallow square glass basin with water in it. Floating on the water are rose leaves cut in the shape of hearts. A flat glass plate sits on top of this. To the side on this plate is a container of shrimp cocktail sauce. In the center are 3 very large prawns underneath a large martini glass. It is a piece of art. They are brought to the table in a procession by a large chunk of the staff that winds through the gangways and down the stairs to the sea deck. The food service is performance art in and of itself. Amazing.

Its after 9 by now and we are fat, drunk and happy. We talk about hanging out until the dessert service but its not going to happen. On our way out I run into the manager by the kitchen and pay my respects. We have a nice conversation. I look in the kitchen doors and back at him quizzically. Yes, its a very small kitchen for what we do. When we have visiting chefs theyre always dumbfounded that we do everything from here. So am I.

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## Guirigay

We stroll down the road on our post gorging constitutional. Its a little swervy tonight but we safely negotiate our way. Home Sweet Home, here we are.

Up in the room I tell Sweetie Pie that the boat at the shore tonight has me thinking of a poem. I read to her

Meeting at Night

a poem by Robert Browning

The grey sea and the long black land; 
And the yellow half-moon large and low; 
And the startled little waves that leap 
In fiery ringlets from their sleep, 
As I gain the cove with pushing prow, 
And quench its speed i' the slushy sand. 


Then a mile of warm sea-scented beach; 
Three fields to cross till a farm appears; 
A tap at the pane, the quick sharp scratch 
And blue spurt of a lighted match, 
And a voice less loud, through its joys and fears, 
Than the two hearts beating each to each! 

I take Sweetie Pies hand and hold it on my chest. I pull her close and kiss her, letting my hand slide from cheek to neck to breast. Two hearts beating each to each! I whisper to her

Goodnight!!

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## Seveen

lovely couple lovely report 
thank you for sharing

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## marley9808

> Its a simple shrimp cocktail but there is nothing simple about it. On a large charger several LED lights are set. A glass box is on top of this. On top of the glass box is a shallow square glass basin with water in it. Floating on the water are rose leaves cut in the shape of hearts. A flat glass plate sits on top of this. To the side on this plate is a container of shrimp cocktail sauce. In the center are 3 very large prawns underneath a large martini glass. It is a piece of art.


Like This?



It was called the "Hearts Desire" and was a special on their Valentine's Day menu

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## Aimbri

You go buddy.. nice report, great pics.

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## justchuck

A great trip and an amazing report.  Thanks for sharing!

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## brasi

I'm stunned by this report...respect mi friend.

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## TiCtOc

Hello **waving**
great report, I was laughing when you said sweetie pie was laying on the couch at seastar I bet the staff were thinking uh oh, sounds like you went in a quiet bit boring time at seastar when the tv was on, hope you got to go back there when it is fun!

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## Maryann

Whew!  Finally got caught up.  Fantastic trip report!

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## Guirigay

Thanks for the feedback everyone, I really appreciate it. I'm having a lot of fun writing this, obviously. I only jotted some brief notes twice while in Negril, 1-3 word memory jogs mostly to help me with the sequence of things when I started writing. It's been a little like going back as I work through each day, which is incredibly enjoyable. I'm also enjoying the discipline of writing to a theme, especially a theme that is so close to one of my philosophical pillars. I wrote the poem Education 30 years ago. And just from a technical standpoint first person present tense with forward and backflashes is demanding. I think it gives the sense of immediacy and presence, though, and I want Sweetie Pie to be able to be transported back to this incredible week whenever she desires. I thank my muse for reawakening my passion for writing.

Sweetie Pie is lurking by the way, but I'm teasing her with the story. She only gets to read it, for the first time, when I post it here. Hello Sweetie Pie!

Now I will play a little Evil Dr. Yes with all of you. We are at the halfway point now but I do believe... The best is yet to come. Maybe, right up to the last sentence. And all within the theme. And completely unexpected. It was an unbelievable week that actually happened... Hmmmmmm...  :Smile: 

Expectations for the unexpected?  :Smile: 

Marley - Thanks for the photo. That is it basically but he made some changes for this event. We didn't get a close enough look to really check it out and we were pretty happy at that point. I was on my way to the bathroom as they were serving them and one of the waiters stopped and let me have a look. He definitely had found a way to suspend the heart-shaped, cut rose petals between the light and the top glass plate and the light play through the glass was crazy which made me think there was water in there. It looks like yours had roses in the glass box. World class presentation, I hope yours was delicious!

AimBri - We meet tomorrow! Most Fun we had on the trip!

TicToc -  :Smile:  , ***Nodding*** / Here's another paradox, we've never met or even conversed (Until now) and I thought of you at least a couple of times on this trip! The couches at Seastar was definitely one of them. I'm glad you laughed as you read it, I laughed as I watched it. We only made it there the one time and it was mid-afternoon but I definitely expect more Seastar in our future.

Brasi - fist bump  :Smile:

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## irieworld

wow--what a great read! I couldn't put it down once I started. Thank you for the trip--I can't wait for it to continue. I am so starved for Jamaica--sometimes I don't know if reports like this help satiate the desire or fan the flames. Fan the flames I guess.

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## marley9808

> Marley - Thanks for the photo. That is it basically but he made some changes for this event. We didn't get a close enough look to really check it out and we were pretty happy at that point. I was on my way to the bathroom as they were serving them and one of the waiters stopped and let me have a look. He definitely had found a way to suspend the heart-shaped, cut rose petals between the light and the top glass plate and the light play through the glass was crazy which made me think there was water in there. It looks like yours had roses in the glass box. World class presentation, I hope yours was delicious!



Unfortunatley, I didn't have that one, it was just a picture from his facebook page of the Valentine's Day menu....but every time I have eaten at the Rockhouse my meal has been just as tasty as it is pleasant to look at!

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## Guirigay

Wednesday
The pre-dawn rituals this morning indicate a beautiful sunrise. We try the roof of our room block first, It has great views but not of the sunrise so we move back to our Sunrise Suite. As we reach the roof we smile, it’s going to be an auspicious day. Out to sea a full moon is setting with clouds on the horizon. Just as the moon drops into the clouds the first rays of daylight hit the tops of the clouds. We watch darkness slip away. As we turn around we catch the first bright beam of the sun poke through the trees. Moonset at Sunrise…



We head down to the cliff decks. We decide on the far west deck and begin, seeking the bubbling well. This is my favorite spot of all time for doing Tai Chi. Perched on a cliff and staring at the sea it is so easy to slip into the meditative state. There is a tremendous sense of peace and satisfaction as we finish our repetitions. We linger for a while on our favorite sun deck. As is almost always the case our period of reflection ends with a question, “Coffee?”

The journey to Easy Rock is interrupted by a few street dog encounters, Sweetie Pie happily calling the dogs. Most of them are wary but they all find their way to the treats, usually sneaking off with them. We see Scar in the distance, he is different. He comes running up to Sweetie Pie and does the circle dance. A couple of dog treats are downed quickly and he is at our side until we get to Easy Rock. He won’t cross the street though, he sits and watches as we enter. He sits there for quite a while.



There are already a few other patrons this morning and we make small talk on the verandah. Max is very excited about the Beenie Man show last night. “It was wild, mon,” he says, “All the ladies were bumpin’, the ladies love Beenie!” The cricket report is on the BBC sports feed. “I’m gonna tell you,” Max begins with a phrase I will always associate with him after this week, “A lot of people say you’ve gotta be this or that or you gotta be a certain way to play cricket. We say, ‘If you got the skill then you get to play.’” I tell him that’s a philosophy to live by.

Max is having problems with one of the keyed padlocks to the bathroom sticking. I show him the pencil trick, loading up the key with graphite. He gets excited, “I love these kind of things. A guy showed me a couple of weeks ago how to clean my computer screens with peanut butter!”

Sweetie Pie needs to use the computer but we’re busted after coffee. We need to go to the ATM and we tell Max we’ll be back later. Back downtown we head. We’re starting to get pretty comfortable walking the west end road. The one place I never really like though is the hill and turn just past the Commerce Bank. It’s safest I think to be on the water side for most of it but that means having to jump over the road twice when you head into town. You need to do this quickly while paying attention. I try to find the ATM at the shopping plaza where the NCB is. Someone tells me it’s out front so I walk back toward the road. This out front thing has NOT messed me up for the last time. We can’t find the ATM but know there is one at the Scotia Bank. We’re hoping we’re early enough that it won’t be too crowded.

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## Guirigay

We get in a line of 4-5 people, I think all locals. We get panhandled while waiting by a guy who has a swollen right foot and calf. He has cancer, he cant fish with his leg, his treatments are expensive. Whatever may or may not be accurate about his story, he is dealing with some problems. I tell him I will help him out. He is getting some sideways looks from some of the other people in line. We get into the ATM and find out the system in Jamaica will not let me access my account with my money in it. I try a couple of times and all I can get at are Checking or Savings. I am not aware of it at the moment but Im slipping into a great vortex of doom, a nightmare of epic proportions, The Jamaican Banking System.

Im a little frustrated by the ATM and just as the last attempt is failing I turn around to see a young man with his face plastered against the window staring in at us. I get a little freaked out, we grab our card and go. As Im walking out I say, The ATM wouldnt give me any cash. Im thinking my panhandler will be there but as I look around he is nowhere to be seen. I wonder what made him move on, I dont see any officers around. Community policing? It was all locals watching him work me. Maybe he saw a more lucrative mark, I dont know but I still wonder

As were walking back Sweetie Pie talks me out of a little panic. Im having some irrational thoughts about being played. We decide well try to get a cash advance at the hotel and failing that Ill take my credit card to the bank before the pub crawl and get a cash advance on it. We get back to HSH and talk to Charlie about a cash advance . He tries to be as helpful as he can but there are issues, We talk about several different options that are either a problem for him or a problem for me. He will do the cash advance on the card BUT he says, Every charge that is rung up on my account is liable for an 18% government tax so youll have to pay that too. We decide well try the cash advance at the bank.

We decide to go snorkeling again this morning. From the moment we start prepping the sea starts to pick up. By the time were at the sea deck we have to watch for a minute or two before deciding to get in. Its a timed entry at the sea ladder, waiting for a nice backwash to jump out. We follow some beautiful coral canyons for a while, when we look up were a ways off shore, almost to the boat lanes. We head back toward the cliffs. At one point I feel a grab from Sweetie Pie and we come up. I just saw a box jellyfish!  she exclaims. A short while later I notice one when Im almost on top of it. What an adrenaline rush! Probably 4-5 feet away but under the water it looks like its right there! We continue snorkeling in closer to the cliff but this gets a little dicey in the rough sea. You dont want to be too close to the boulders or coral heads in the troughs of the waves. I can hear Sweetie Pie saying things I wish I hadnt heard before. We head back to the sea deck.

We shower and get cleaned up then we grab some lunch at the restaurant. Fish and Chips and again we have excellent Jamaican French fries. We decide an early nap is a great idea since well be crawling at our typical nap time. There is a nice hammock in the courtyard. We take up residence.

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## Guirigay

I have my watch on today, one of the few times I wear it all week. I figure I better give myself enough time at the bank, this aint my first Caribbean adventure. We get up about 1 and start our way back down the road. As we pass Mi Yard I get a call out from a Rasta in the yard. We go over to have a talk. He says he is a Bush Doctor, asks if us or any of our family has diabetes. He has some bird peppers, tiny little green peppers. Good for the diabetes, swallow them whole, dont chew, he says. We talk a little bit but I have to beg off, I need to get to the bank so we can come back for the pub crawl. Sure, Mon, he says.  Sweetie Pie peels off at Easy Rock again and I head down to the NCB. I button up my hair shirt.

Chinese water torture and Japanese bamboo torture have a new ethnic dungeon mate, the Jamaican Bank Torture. I will describe it if you have the stomach to read it. First you enter the bank and get in line. It may be the right line or it may not. It almost doesnt matter because even if it is the right line you may be asked to get in another line as well. When you get to the front of the line you may be able to go see a teller who may or may not be able to help you with your request, or like me, you may be told that youve been waiting in the wrong line and you need to go to the other line. What other line? you may ask. Over there, you are told and pointed to not a line, but rows of chairs. A line that moves SO SLOW that chairs are required. In Jamaica. That, my friends, is a slow moving line. When you finally get to see a bank agent be prepared to have your request denied if your first born child is not available. Passports, drivers licenses, SS, credit and insurance cards are all meaningless if youve been stuck with your middle name by your parents. This is a completely unacceptable practice in some parts of the world and causes me loads of grief today. The bank manager wont issue me a cash advance but does help me figure out a way to get cash from the ATM tomorrow. Can I at least get some money changed? I ask. Sure, you just need to get back in that line

I am in the bank long enough to calculate the average teller transaction time. It is 12 minutes per transaction. The slow line runs closer to half an hour. Just as I get to the front of the line it is closing time. At 2:29 pm a little old lady walks in the door and is guided to a chair at the front of the line. The next teller opens up and the little old lady is walked to her window. I have to smile at the fates. I walk out of the bank with $8350 Jamaican at 2:50.

My biggest frustrations on this trip have to do with getting money and getting money exchanged. The banking and financial services systems in Jamaica ARE antiquated and do seem to run at cross purposes sometimes. The money exchange is its own issue worthy of much discussion. I want to be clear, though, that me ending up in the bowels of a Jamaican bank flush mostly comes down to me not being prepared appropriately. Be prepared, or else

I speed walk back to Easy Rock to grab Sweetie Pie. Her and Max are having a grand old time. No news on our email check but thats OK. We settle up and head for the crawl.

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## Guirigay

The deck is full at Mi Yard when we walk up. Its after 3 so we figure the crawl is under way. Whats up pub crawlers! We hoot as we walk up the stairs. Crickets chirp and we get funny stares. Oops, our bad, Jamaica time. We grab a couple of Stripes and settle in to one of the tables, a group of fit and dapper 50 somethings. A group of folks come wandering in from up the west end from Blue Cave Castle. Its starting to rev up. The Bus pulls into the yard and I kid you not, every person who was sitting on the porch when we got there gets up to leave. Here come the drinkers! I say. One of the fit and fiftys says,Yup, and kind of gives a head nod to the exit. Oh, were rolling with these cats for awhile. I get a furrowed brow with a wave goodbye.

Bush Doctor comes around and sees me, youre back, mon, just like you said! A mon of your word! This is one of the nicer compliments I receive this week.

The first bus empties but I dont see anyone I recognize. We talk with the guys from Blue Cave, theyve been having a great time hanging out at Spider bar. Its across from the Castle, they say, but theres no sign, somebody stole it. This leads to a whole funny line of remarks.

The second bus load pulls up and the first person we recognize is Crusher. You cant miss Crusher, he is a mountain of a man. He introduces us to Wench but the wife is back at the hotel resting. I had really been hoping to meet her. Shes good but she needed the rest, says Crusher. I hope the rest of her week goes well.

I see a long haired wild man walk by. No question, Newfie is in the house! We had a fair bit of back and forth on the board before heading down so I was excited to meet him. Newfie did not disappoint. Newfie is there with a pretty good contingent from Fun Holiday, most of whose names Ive forgotten. Sorry, it was that kind of day. AimBri are there and a young couple from Canada we dub Johnny Fast and Amber Glow, theyre down on their delayed honeymoon having tied the knot last Summer. This kind of becomes the nucleus of our pub crawl experience. We all wander off for a drink or a view, a joke or a smoke but inevitably we end up standing next to each other again talking smack or sense or stupidity. Mostly the former and the latter. They are the perfect companions in crime.

I take a load of crap for my board name. I know this is coming. AimBri says, He explained the whole thing. Yeah, but, still Read it out loud cmon, couldnt you spell it phonetically? I laugh because I had thought about that. My OCD kicked in, though, and I just couldnt misspell

Mi Yard is great, the owner brings out some plates of food. Bammy, saltfish and dumplings, breadfruit and more. The kitchen here is amazing for authentic Jamaican food. We knock back a few but before you know it its time to crawl.

The next stop is Swordfish, I think. I feel stupid because we walked by it every day. Big sign for ice cream out front. This would be another great hangout, excellent deck up top with great views. Things start to loosen up a little. Someone takes a picture of Newfie and Johnny Fast at the rail doing their best rockstar excess pose, wild eyed and tongues wagging with Newfies mane blowing in the wind. I want that picture! I yell. If you took it, please post it here.

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## Guirigay

We jump on the bus to head up to the next stop, a twofer, Tayons and the Country and Western. I may have offended some folks dissing the Country and Western, thats where they were headed and they agreed with me that Tayons is where I should be. I ran up the lane from here to get my iPhone and as I passed C&W they are playing Toby Keith and when I return Tayons is playing Peter Toshs Get Up, Stand Up. I feel vindicated.

Sweetie Pie and Amber Glow are out front chatting away. Need another Sweetie? I call out. A semi-distracted glance, quick smile and nod is all I get. Sweetie Pie is having fun. As Im getting a couple at the bar I hear the distinct gravelly voice of a man whose spent most of his life enjoying the ride on the backroads. I told the giant Ive got his back if he gets any trouble from the guy in the straw hat, bellows Newfie as he steps up for a refill. I think hes talking about Crusher. No, man, didnt you see? and he points out a Jamaican sitting at the picnic table out front. He is huge. 6-6 when he stands up, says Newfie. Hes every bit of 400 pounds, maybe 5, maybe more. It gets hard to tell when a person is THAT big.



Next stop is another twofer, No Limit and Pee Wees. We hit No Limit first. As Im delivering a drink to Sweetie Pie she says that Amber Glow and Johnny Fast want to have a romantic dinner on the cliffs tomorrow night to celebrate their honeymoon. You should go talk to Johnny, says Sweetie Pie. Ill need to tell him some confidential stuff, I say, Evil plans are still afoot. Is that OK? With the glow twins approval Im off to find Johnny.

I tell him about Xtabi, Rockhouse and what I have planned for Catcha tomorrow night as they seem to line up with what hes looking for. He likes the sound of Catcha but tomorrow is their last night. I tell him Catcha is right out then cause that will be our crib tomorrow night. Xtabi and Rockhouse are just up the road though, you could walk up and have a look tonight and make a reservation at the one you prefer, I say.

A little while later I get a call from Sweetie Pie, Come look at this! I go out and look up in the tree on the corner by No Limit. I see a tree. Look, says Sweetie Pie as she points. I drop my head on her arm and look out past her finger. Something in the tree moves. I dont know why the parrot is so easy to see in this picture, at the time it seemed like a tree ninja.



Were hanging out on the corner of Ella lane having a blast. AimBri are a very cute couple, unbelievably nice and a load of fun. Newfie reminds me of some guys I know from the Outlaws in Northeast Ohio, one of my old stomping grounds. He is hilarious, non-stop fun and you dont have to spend too much time with him to know there is a heart of gold beating under that bare barrel chest. He is straight up, I say, and to the left he might add. Johnny Fast and Amber Glow are bright, articulate, beautiful and a blast. Just a great group to party with on the cliffs.

I love these pictures, they capture a moment that captures the day for me, especially AimBris easy going smiles. This is a fun group of people! Where the hell is Johnny Fast!!

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## Guirigay

We stay at No Limit for a while. We notice the bus taking a group up the lane to the next stop. We better go over and check out Pee Wees! is the consensus of the brain trust. Pee Wees rocks. Drinks are in hand down by the cliff, a cocktail party by the sea. Each turn seems to offer a new amusing conversation. Sweetie Pie is excited and calls me over. This is Debbie Lightheart, she says, Shes running spay and neutering clinics for the area around Negril. Im kind of blown away by the coincidence. We have talked at several times during the last few days about what Sweetie Pie can do to help the dogs after we leave. She feels a spay and neuter program would be a good thing and here are the hands of fate delivering the opportunity. This is a true moment and I try to soak it up as best I can. It is better than any cocktail I have tonight. I look at Sweetie Pie and I can see she is already formulating a plan. She and Debbie have a long conversation. Intersection meets cross-plane that divides the junction of crossroads which split the connection of nodes that coalesce at this meeting point. Damn Life Wow Crazy how things come together

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## Guirigay

Efforts to move on to the next bar on the crawl materialize and evaporate. Amber Glow gets a Pina Colada and raves about it. Sips around confirm it is a great one. I tell a story about having one at the Hilton Caribe in San Juan where it was invented, this one is close, chunky with pineapple bits. Sweetie Pie really likes it. Johnny, do you have $5? asks Amber Glow. Yes. Give it to me! she says with a big smile. Shortly she returns with a Pina Colada for Sweetie Pie.

We never get past Pee Wees on the pub crawl, were just having too much fun. We notice the bus coming back down the road with passengers. Theres lots of talk of what to do from here. Some are ready to head back to the beach, some are going to hang here for a while and catch a cab back. Johnny Fast and Amber Glow would like to walk up to Xtabi and Rockhouse but arent having much luck convincing any of their Fun Holiday pals to go. Sweetie Pie and I are trying to figure out our plan when Johnny and Amber come over, Lets go up and look at Rockhouse. As were standing at the gate at Pee Wees talking about what the plan is Amber Glow looks over across the road. Oh my God! she exclaims, SOMEBODY is mooning the bus! A head shaking bust out ensues. So long pub crawl, Much Love!!

We give Johnny and Amber the inebriated and abbreviated version of the safe walking rules. At one point at No Limit I had to grab Ambers arm and pull her off the road to avoid a car and I want to have a safe walk. We move cautiously and have a nice talk on the way to Xtabi. As we turn in the bar roof rises up in front of us and Amber lets out a little gasp. We step up to the bar and I order a round of Dirty Bananas. The bartender delivers a thing of beauty. The side of the glass has been drizzled with chocolate syrup before the drink was poured and the glass looks like a delicious piece of pop art. I dont know if this is the best Dirty Banana of the week but it sure is the prettiest! I tell the bartender. Presentation, mon, respect! he answers and the smile on his face says it all. We tour the cliffs and go down in the beach cave. On the way out I set my glass on the bar and the bartender shoots me a look. Not JUST the prettiest I say with a big smile. Out shoots the fist and with a return smile he says, Thank you, mon, respect. I believe Ive said it before and I know I will say it again, I love Xtabi.

We continue up the road to Rockhouse. Sweetie Pie and Amber are on a roll and I enjoy Johnnys viewpoint on any topic we stumble across. Against one of those walls that has a tree growing streetside we hold up because a car is coming. I turn around to say something to Johnny and as I turn back to peak around the tree the car is RIGHT THERE. Whoosh! What a head rush! And a nice wake up call to keep your wits on the road.

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## Guirigay

We get to Rockhouse and Johnny and Amber are quite pleased. They take a quick look around and decide this is the spot. We point out some things from our dinner last night. They make reservations for tomorrow night, the sunset seating at the Rock Table. “Would you like a complimentary shuttle?” they’re asked. “Yes.” “We’ll be there at 4:45” “Exactly,” I say with a smile.

The primary mission is complete. What to do now? We decide that we should have something to eat. It’s a really good idea at this point. “So if you’re gonna eat here tomorrow night, we could stop back in at Xtabi for a bite tonight and you will get them both.” “We can go down and see if anyone’s still at Pee Wees afterward” It’s so easy to come up with genius plans under these sorts of conditions…

When we get back to Xtabi we get a hearty welcome from the bartender and another round of drinks. We decide to catch a sea view before sitting down to dinner. As we’re standing in a circle by the beach cave steps I tell Johnny and Amber about our conch burgers yesterday. I think I am pretty descriptive. Suddenly we notice a gentleman leaning against the railing by the kitchen door slowly sipping a coffee cup. He’s got his kitchen linens on but he is all kinds of laid back and cool as he sort of boulevards the rail and post. “Enjoying the night?” he asks. We talk for a bit. “You’re not drinking coffee are you?” asks Sweetie Pie. “No,” he replies. “Is that soup?” “All day long,” he answers with a smile.

“I was telling them about the conch burgers here,” I say. “Yah, mon, I make the conch burgers,” says Conch God. Now I’m flying reconnaissance spy missions at the moment but that does not affect the fact that every word I’m about to speak is the unadulterated truth, and Conch God knows it. “You make one of the greatest things on earth, mon!” He smiles, takes a sip of his soup then lifts his cup to me, “Respect, mon!” We talk conch. He will tell me NOTHING about how he makes it.

“It’s too bad you only make them for lunch,” I say. He thinks for a moment and says, “I can make you conch burgers.” “Really?” “Yah, mon, just go up front and tell them Conch God sent you.” We do this and are promptly escorted out to the table on the point. “The best table in the house,” I say. “Yah, mon, of course,” says our waiter. We sit Johnny and Amber at the best seats, looking back on the resort and down the cliffs at the softly lit cottages clinging to the edge.

When we order the waiter says, “We don’t serve conch burgers at dinner.” “Conch God said he would make them for us,” we answer. “Well let me see.” He returns in a short while and says, “We can make conch burgers for you!” We order three and a filet mignon. Nothing I say has convinced Johnny that he will enjoy a mouthful of sea snails. When Johnny’s soup shows up it is followed by soup for everyone else. “But we didn’t order these,” we say. “Compliments of the chef,” we are told. I could eat it all day long.

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## Guirigay

Conversation rolls, it is easy and enjoyable. It comes out very late in the evening that Johnny is a musician, Im not surprised. Dinner shows and is delicious. Johnny is happy with his steak, Amber likes the conch burger and Sweetie Pie and I are in heaven for another brief visit. It is a glorious night, more joy to go around than we can hold, spilling over to anyone near us with an open heart. We have made best friends for a day and what a day its been. Ive been in the depths of a subterranean Jamaican death pit and scaled the heights of the West end. Ive seen people with their hand out asking and people with their hand out helping. Ive watched folks move through the landscape disconnected and others who walk through a community completely connected. I have engaged in great excess in the direct presence of great poverty. I have had a lifetime moment again in a place I was afraid was relegated to the dusty back bins of my history. Dichotomies run deep in this place. I am so attracted to it.

We decide the legs are finished, then we decide we are too. I dont think anyones still at Pee Wees, we all say. We pay our respects to the bartender, he goes and gets Conch God. A lot of mutual respect goes around. I am blissing. Me and Conch God, we aint done. Mi an im, wi godda ting.

We walk out to the street and are asked if we need a taxi. 700 to drop us off at Home Sweet Home and take them to Fun Holiday. He thinks for a moment, OK. We talk about staying in touch on the taxi ride, I tell them about negril.com. Ill probably be Johnny Fast on there, he says. We never exchange last names even. As we exit the taxi at Home Sweet Home there is consensus again  Great Night! Lots of Fun. Thanks Johnny and Amber

We sidle on up to our room and momentarily are laid out on the bed. Sweetie Pies eyes are closed, a faint smile on her lips. Did you have fun, sweetie? I ask. Fun!...fun, fun, fun comes the drifting reply. I kiss her cheek and revisit a thought Id had earlier sitting on the deck at Xtabi. This place can be mine, again. This place can be ours, too. It doesnt have to compete, it doesnt have to conflict, it just has to be. And it is, in spades

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## booger

Really great read man. I try to get to Xtabi every night while in town as the place is just super chill. As far as Debbie Lightheart, do you have contact info for her and also do you know if she is there full time? We just missed another group who is coming into Ochi right after our next reach in April, and Sandie would love to volunteer her time doing some spays and neuters in Negril.

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## Aimbri

Very cool Guirigay, it was nice hangin with you guys.

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## negrilaholic

wow, I just loved reading this! Thank you so much for sharing your experiences.  :Smile:

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## brasi

"My biggest frustrations on this trip have to do with getting money and getting money exchanged. The banking and financial services systems in Jamaica ARE antiquated and do seem to run at cross purposes sometimes. The money exchange is its own issue worthy of much discussion. I want to be clear, though, that me ending up in the bowels of a Jamaican bank flush mostly comes down to me not being prepared appropriately. Be prepared, or else…"

I hear ya. Between ATMS and bank lines, I lost half a day last trip...I blame myself, too. Cash is king.

Love your  report. So many feelings you write about are commonly shared by many, and eloquently played out in your writing style, love this Trip Report. You are really nailing it...you are a *really* good writer. Of course my opinion is worth less than 50J...
 :Big Grin: 

The partying vs poverty contrast? Amazing.

You set the bar high bro!

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## rastagal

I agree with the cash issue...I never remember it being a big deal before but this last trip it seemed like I was always having to go to the ATM.  I got lucky and the Scotia Bank at the round about was always working but it is still kind of inconvenient.  Next time I'm bringing plenty of cash and exchanging it at the Cambio first thing!  I was cracking up at the bank fiasco...it is SO true!

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## Clarity

Guirigay – Wow! This is hands down one of the best trip reports I've ever read!I devoured it during my lunchbreak today. I couldn't stop reading and I was late returning to the office!! I was completely sucked in and felt like I was experiencing Jamaica vicariously through your words. I loved all the details you shared, all the dialogues, observations, every moment described perfectly and your words are beautiful. The love you and Sweetiepie share really shines through your prose. She's a lucky lady and you're a lucky man.

I can't wait to read more. Please keep it coming!! I'm really looking forward to your next installment. :Big Grin:

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## Guirigay

Thanks for all the positive feedback everyone, I really appreciate it.

Booger - I'm not done yet with Xtabi, it draws me like a magnet  :Smile:  I believe Debbie lives in Negril full-time. I have contact info but there is a little bit left to that story. When are you guys going again? I can PM you the contact info if you would like it in the next couple of days. Is Sandie a vet? That would be super helpful. Neutering can be handled by less qualified individuals but spaying really requires a fully trained vet. Sandie will make Sweetie Pie very happy.

AimBri - I'm not kidding, those pictures take me RIGHT BACK. What a great time. And the parrot, invisible in the real world, right? Please tell me you had a hard time seeing it too  :Smile: 

negrilaholic - You are very welcome. It makes me happy to know that you find it of value. I am enjoying this experience from a lot of different avenues. So again we visit paradox. Can one thing be both altruistic and selfish at the same time? Is it really sharing if I see so many advantages for myself? Hmmm.... Okay, slap me! Just freakin' slap me!!  :Smile: 

Brasi - Thank you. I think I have a 50 left from the last K note I dropped, it's all yours.  :Smile: 

RastaGal - Your last trip report was one of the first things I read here when I started prepping for the trip. I liked it! Thanks for planting the seed.

Clarity - and hopefully Hubby-Man and Jamiroquai - So glad to see you back! Your semi-spiritual recounting of Mayfield Falls was a big factor in the decision to go there on our road trip. No matter how much you read or how many pictures you see, though...

I'm not sure how quick the next installment will be out. I've been working it in my head but haven't written anything yet. It was an incredible day. There's a lot I want to say and I want to give it my best.

Peace and Understanding

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## Aimbri

Guirigay... I didn't see a thing buddy :Smile: ... good times for sure.

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## Guirigay

Thursday

With surprisingly little effort we are up this morning and out to our sunrise spot. It is a gorgeous morning and a beautiful sunrise, a long series of changing beams of light and slowly shifting colors.



We turn around and look out to sea; the moon is much higher on the horizon today as its cycle begins to wane.



 It stands as tangible evidence of our ride on this orbiting rock, hurtling through the infinite expanse of the celestial. It highlights for me one of the central paradoxes of a conscious existence  I am but a speck in this universe but I am always everything. I and I. Today its I and I and Sweetie Pie. I am glad that I stand here with her in my arms.

We head down for Tai Chi on the cliffs again this morning then off to Easy Rock for coffee. Biscuit treats are distributed and Scar joins us for his daily jaunt, waiting outside again. Max and Sweetie Pie greet each other like old friends. She orders an orange juice after we get our first cup, she needs vitamins and hydration. Max says OK and pulls out a big basket of oranges! Just a couple of minutes, he says. We wander and drink and when we come back there is a very tall glass of fresh squeezed orange juice. Did I mention how sweet Jamaican oranges are? Juiced, they are out of this world! Sweetie Pie, who is physically incapable of gulping, finishes it very quickly. I think she is worried about me gulping it. Her fears are well founded.

Having managed to shuffle some dollars this morning with Charlies assistance (Sorry Max, I wont access financial accounts from ANY kiosk or caf) we head into town confident we can get a much needed infusion of capital. We go into the shopping center where Ive been told numerous times there is an ATM out front. We walk around and still cant find it. I ask a shopkeeper setting up for the day and they say Yah, mon, just out front. We start walking back toward the road. No, mon, out front, says the shopkeeper and he points to a walkway that heads AWAY from the road. We walk back and it opens onto a large parking lot and there on the left, boom, the ATM. Then I look over and, BAM, theres the Hi Lo!! Damn, weve been looking for that place all week! I have to laugh. Out front? Out back? There IS a big parking lot back there  :Smile:  A brief wait puts some cash back in our pockets and were under way.

As we are headed back I see a young boy, Id say somewhere between 7 and 9, milling around by the road and an older man back off the road a ways kind of picking his fingers. The kid sees us, shoots a look at the old man and does a little pull together, only sort of in reverse. He starts a bit of a mopey shuffle toward us. I look at the kid for a moment and then stare at the old man. Just before the kid is to us and starts to open his mouth the old man says something I dont quite catch and the kid peels off.

I am angry, disgusted and sad. I remember GerryG talking about how frustrated he was with people teaching young children to beg. I think my awareness of that probably short circuits the pinch here but not until we see the full mechanics play out. What to do? I want to help this child, things are obviously difficult for him but Im pretty damn sure giving him anything in this situation will not be beneficial. What I really want to do is go punch Fagin in the mouth. Small failure on the peace and understanding front. Not a single word passes between any of us. Sweetie Pie doesnt really pick up on all of this but a little ways up the road she says, Sweetie, youre making your face

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## Guirigay

We stop at Pamelas before we get back. We have been promising to get fruit from her for days and feel bad because the money has never been right when we pass by. Today well buy a bunch. Mangos and big beautiful grapefruits. We ask about jelli coconuts. hard to come by this time of year, she says, but the dry coconuts are good. We havent seen ANY jelli coconuts at any of the fruit stands. She cracks us one and we drink the water. She husks it when we are done and reminds us to eat everything, The best vitamins and minerals are in the dark rind.

We go back to the room and scarf down a giant grapefruit we slice into only six wedges as we get ready for our excursion. Today were going spelunking! Thats caving all you dirty minds! I must admit, though, that I have an unchecked box on my life list for spunking while spelunking. It remains un-checked today.

There arent any new flowers today. I think our guy got confused yesterday when I paid him for the last couple of days all at once. We have had at least three bouquets in the room since Monday and what is there holds up until we leave so I cant be too upset. His arrangements got better every day, though, so I had kind of been anticipating his continued improvement.



We load up a bag and head off for, you guessed it, Xtabi. Were going to have breakfast, shoot some photos in the caves and go for a swim. We grab the table tucked back by the railing under the roof. good morning, brudda, what will you have? We order a bread basket, fried plantains and coffee. I think I need more juice, says Sweetie Pie and gets a mango juice. Better bring some waters too, I add. The coffee comes and our waiter says, Now Im going to treat you to some Crystal Punch! After last night were kind of excited at what this might be! He comes back around from the bar with a pitcher. I start laughing, Water!... Jamaican water! It is damn fine water. The mango juice is delicious, a thick syrupy sweet beverage.

As were enjoying our breakfast another couple comes in for breakfast toting a couple of shoulder bags. Theyre in their early thirties I would guess and have the urban bohemian thing going. They order breakfast and are thrown for a loop by the crystal punch bit as well. We share a laugh with them about it. They are a nice couple. We finish a nice leisurely breakfast and get ready to go down to the caves for a Manly Man and Gurly Girl photo shoot at the sea window in the rock cave. Sweetie Pie makes a snarky comment about the Bohemians. I do the cartoon head swing, Wha  Wha  Wha  What? I say. They just work too hard at it, she says and points out a few things that indicate financial status and the effort to have a look. I compare their unkempt appearance to Rastas and Sweetie Pie says, Rastas dont work at it, they look that way as a byproduct of what they ARE. Sweetie Pie is dissing!! I have to smile as I consider how unlike her this is and yet it IS her. Ive seen The Snark step out before, just very rarely. It makes me think. She is perfectly imperfect

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## Guirigay

We head down to take some pictures. It is late morning and the light in the cave at the sea window is great. The camera on the iPhone is not. Memories of my children in this cave come and go. My daughter caught the bug for photography in this very spot. I try to let them come, honor them as a good memory and let them go. I try not to let any sadness or yearning linger but thats not entirely possible. We have a lot of fun shooting down here, Sweetie Pie lets me pose her and I get a lot of shots I will enjoy for a long time. It doesnt matter if the lighting or focus are wacky, they capture this moment. I find some interesting places to scramble out to and Sweetie Pie grabs a few shots of me. A few of them turn out OK.



We grab our face masks, drop our bag at the bar and head down the beach cave steps. They are slippery and we take our time. Sweetie Pie is amazed to walk out a hole in the cliffs onto a coral shell beach and out into the sea. I think of what a fish my boy was in the water here, its hard not to be a little sad about that. We swim in the cove for a while then head over to the island platform where we catch some sun. Bohemian couple come out for a swim too and we exchange pleasantries, even Sweetie Pie! A few dives off the island rock and we head back in to the beach cave. I tell Sweetie Pie about my daughter getting caught by a wave one day on her way out and getting pushed up into the rocky cliff, fortunately with nothing more than a couple of scratches to show for it. Be careful, I say,  I dont want to hear I know, I know! says Sweetie Pie. We safely head up the stairs and grab a couple of drinks to wet our whistles while we dry off.

When we are done we pack up and head off to our next destination, Josephs Cave. As we leave Xtabi for the last time this reach I know that well be back. Its my place now and always will be. I have shared it with my love and now its her place too. I hope to fill it with only positive memories for her.

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## Guirigay

When we get to Josephs Cave the gate is closed with an unclasped padlock holding it shut. Miss Mae? I call out, hoping shes there. Yes, Im coming! a voice returns from inside the house/shop/inn.  The door opens and three dogs come roaring out of the house headed for the gate. Dont worry they wont bother you, she says.

Ive spent a lot of time thinking about how I want to convey this afternoon with Miss Mae. It is an incredibly memorable few hours. It is fun, interesting, eye opening and thought provoking. It is absolutely a highlight of a remarkable week. And I dont think I want to say TOO much about it here. I could write a lot about our time with her but I think Miss Mae is a personality of the first order and to be fully appreciated she should be met and accepted without too many preconceptions. She has led a long and interesting life and comes by her strongly held opinions out of that experience. I admire and respect her for that even if I dont always agree with her opinions. I will, however, relate my favorite anecdote.

We have been sitting around at the bar for a while talking on a variety of subjects when Miss Mae suddenly says, While Im sitting right here! and starts yelling out at the road, actually swearing a little bit. Off she shoots around the bar and is heading for the gate. We turn around to look and see a young teenage boy on the other side of the street who has just jumped a wall and is trying to scurry across the courtyard of the property. Miss Mae moves right quick, I am impressed. She is out the gate, across the road and in the opposite gate in no time and she has tracked the young rapscallion down. A serious tongue lashing follows the boy back to the wall. In my minds eye I see her dragging him by the ear but I think she is just all over him and giving him the what for as she drives him back to the wall. Now get back over that wall! she hollers and forces him to scale back up and over. 

She returns as if not much has happened so we kind of talk around the thing for a little bit. We dont want to pry into her business, but Eventually it comes out that the boy is from out in Whitehall and he comes here to jump the cliffs for tips from tour boats. He, along with many other boys, hang out next to her property on the cliff and when they see a tour boat in the coves at Rockhouse they jump onto the Josephs property and try to solicit tips. Much about this situation irritates Miss Mae and some of her irritation I find disconcerting but it is her concern that will stick with me forever. 

She goes on at some short length about the dangers of cliff diving. She is a somewhat animated woman and continues, Everywhere they jump, she says lifting her hand up shoulder high, index finger cocked upward and head tilted looking to where shes pointing, They die! she says. Her arms and head drop as she says this. I know where a few have died on the cliffs and I name them. With each name comes a solemn Yes, and a nod. I name a few more that I am unsure of in a more questioning tone. Yes, comes the answer to each accompanied by that slow nod. But not here? I finally ask. Quick as she scampered across the road she turns to me and raising her finger again says emphatically, Not yet!!

Sweetie Pie and Miss Mae bond over some dog talk. Sweetie Pie talks about her concern for the street dogs. Miss Mae shares her concerns. Tarzan, Wolf and Baskill have the good life, Miss Mae loves them dearly. Her food bill for them is large she says. Chicken, rice, cornmeal, meat, she says, It gets expensive. You cook for your dogs? I ask with a big smile. Of course, they need good food, not that stuff from the bag. Those dogs eat well.

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## Guirigay

We eventually come to an agreement on the cave usage fee. Miss Mae make it clear she is giving us a deal. We go down and have a great swim in the cave. Miss Mae LOVES you, insists Sweetie Pie on numerous occasions. If so its probably because all I order the whole afternoon are Tings! There is a sandy bottom here when youre in shallow enough water to stand. A large school of gar fish are at the mouth of the cave and another large school of silvery blue fish are in the shallows of the cave. There used to be a bar down here back in the day, Ivan pummeled it. It is impressive to see the destructive power of the sea. It is a magical place to go for a swim, our best of the week.




We pay our respects on the way out. We are the only people in her yard this February afternoon and it seems to be just the way she likes it. The young boy is still sitting on the other side of the wall as we make our way back down West End road.

This leads to an interesting philosophical discussion on our way back to Home Sweet Home. I ask Sweetie Pie about her attachment to the street dogs and her desire to help them. I love animals and hate to see them suffer but I am more inclined to assist a human being and look for ways to help that teenage cliff jumper acquire an education instead of risking his life for tips. I find Sweetie Pies logic compelling though. All human beings have some degree of self determination, she says, They can act to change and improve their situation. These dogs were brought here, to an environment that has never supported their species, and been left to their own devices. Dogs dont have a lot of devices down here! We talk about her conversation with Debbie Lightheart yesterday. Im going to try to help her out when I get home, she says, Ive already checked and Jamaicadogs.com is available. Sweetie Pie!!

She buys the domain name from her phone before we even get home. The site is up now but she is waiting for confirmation from Debbie before she posts her contact info. 

http://jamaicandogs.com/

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## Guirigay

We get back to HSH in time to grab a nap before dinner. This whole nap in the afternoon thing is just seriously addicting. We get up around 5, Sweetie Pie wants to be extra delectable tonight and needs an additional 10 minutes. She is smashing and I do my best to look worthy of taking her arm.

We go out to grab a taxi. There is never a taxi waiting at HSH, you have to flag one down. I figure well have our first experience with a route taxi. So here we are, two decked out tourists on the side of the road and we flag down a red plate. 200 to Catcha Falling Star? I ask. The driver nods his head and I open the door for Sweetie Pie then jump around the other side. There is another Jamaican in the front seat. The ENTIRE ride from HSH to Catcha he is complaining about tourists riding in the route taxis and how 200J is not enough to be taking us all that way. From his expression, tone and what I understand of what hes saying its pretty clear he doesnt think I understand him at all. The driver stays silent the whole ride. When we pull up to Catcha I hand the driver 500 and as he reaches for change I put my hand up, All good, Brudda. I smile thinking about their conversation after we leave. I am less inclined to use route taxis in the future.

As we head into Catcha Sweetie Pie is looking around. I dont remember this place. Where are we? How did I miss this? she says as we step up to the front desk. Reservations for the Hundred Candles, I say. Welcome Guirigay and Sweetie Pie! says the front desk lady. Sweetie Pie shoots me just the look I was hoping for  a barely controlled sense of excitement and anticipation. We are escorted through a lush manicured garden that winds amongst the cottages. We pass under flower covered trellises and catch a glimpse of the huge thatch covered bar. Would you like to grab a drink first? asks our escort, and we head to the bar. Your waitress will be with you shortly, says the gentleman and he quickly disappears. As we grab our first sips of Rum and Ting Sweetie Pie looks out across the cove at a table set with flowers and candles on its own private terrace. She looks at the table and then at me with eyes open wide as her heart. Yes sweetie, thats our crib for this evening. The look on her face is priceless and brings me great joy.

Shortly our waitress Karen arrives and introduces herself. Would you like to see your table? she asks and takes us out to the terrace. A bottle of bubbly sits in its ice bucket. Champagne? asks Karen. We have just started our cocktails but on a night like tonight the only possible answer to that question is, Of course! We toast the evening and Karen asks if we would like a couple of pictures. Karen seems to make a habit of asking incredibly easy questions. What a lovely lady.



We grab our drinks for a little walk around before the sun sets. The cliffs at Catcha are amongst the best in Negril. Stairs and walkways  cross along the cliff face at multiple levels. As these walkways stretch along they meet alcoves in the cliff face at different locations. These alcoves have little terraces built out from them and a variety of chairs, chaises and thatch umbrellas grace the different terraces. There are places where you may have a perch above you and one below but you would never know they were there sitting in your own little private rookery. A normal talking voice is washed out by the white noise of the sea on the cliffs so there is a true sense of seclusion even though you may be less than an easy lob from your cliffmates. We head for the farthest perch, looking around the point over to Ricks and enjoy a few minutes of that intimate isolation. Sweetie Pie looks aglow the soft hues of the setting sun.

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## SweetSue

I have thoroughly enjoyed reading some of the most wonderful posts as of late.  These stories give hope for redemption, moving on, finding one's special other and reinventing a better life.  Thank you for sharing it with us...

BTW - I suspect we may have met.  You sound very much like a couple I met @ Sun Beach who had bought a hamburger to feed an injured dog.  I called a friend who was interested in helping me find him a home, but when they came to see him, he was afraid of the man she had brought with her and would not come near.  Unfortunately the free clinic is only available a few times a year when some volunteer Veterinarians come down to JA to run a free spay & neuter clinic.  I could not find the rescue group I had heard about.   I will be watching your new site, Jamaicandogs.  All the best.

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## Guirigay

We head back to our table and settle in for the show. The sun plays a virtuoso symphony of light for us this evening. A progression of movements plays out against the sky, stepping back against a series of clouds reaching to the horizon as the angle of the sun drops.



The crescendo builds to a climax as the sun marches toward its curtain call. Sunlight and candlelight refract through our flutes in harmony as they prepare to pass the melody of illumination.



The sun takes its bows forever tonight. Twilight lingers longer, it seems, than any other night this reach.



A fishing boat heading in from the reef passes by as the last notes play.



The slow and beautiful coda finishes with a surreal burst of late twilight color.



Karen returns and asks us the only question we struggle with this evening, what to have for dinner. I decide on the seafood pasta and Sweetie Pie goes to the house menu for the jerk platter. With the order completed the conversation turns to us. So why are we here, sweetie, why have you done all this, made all these grand gestures, set so many expectations?  Do you have expectations, my love? I ask. Well, no, not really, not immediately. But my friends sure do! Every time you do one of these romantic getaways all I hear in the lead up to it is oh hes going to propose, youre coming back engaged, she says and I can see her heart, I know what she really wants. And besides, she says,how are you ever going to top this? Top this? says the Evil Dr. Yes, making his appearance even here,Dont worry about that, easy peasy, already got a bead on it. Oh yes, Evil Plans! Smacks on the shoulder accompany a chorus of You little pisser! blurted out amongst laughs. I regain my composure and take her hand.

I brought you here, my love, and did all this because you deserve it. You are the finest woman Ive ever known and I dont want there to ever be a question in your mind that I feel that way. But you know better than anyone where Im at right now and where I need to go. You know where Im at with my kids and what I feel I need to do there to be at peace with myself and them. There are things I need to see through before I can truly and freely move forward, but I want you to know and be certain that when I do glance at the future I always see you in it.

We talk about the past and the present in a very open and honest conversation but tonight what we talk about most is the future. We talk about dreams and aspirations, passions and desires. We paint a picture of a future laid out on a canvas stretched out from today forward. It is a pleasure that is difficult to describe in words. Do you remember it, Sweetie Pie?

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## Guirigay

Through an evening of the most intoxicating and engrossing of conversations we are occasionally and tactfully interrupted by our gracious server. Soup first, a pepper pot again. I think Chicken Lavishs conch soup is a little better but not a lot better. I think I could probably survive on conch soup and pepper pot. I think Conch Gods soup was a pepper pot also but Im working from a hazy memory there. A pineapple salad follows. Its really more of a sweet, fruity slaw on a bed of wild greens but we like it a lot and Sweetie Pie is ecstatic to have a nice plate of raw veggies, a rarity this week. An appetizer plate comes out next, a combination of jerk shrimp, crab cakes and bamboo chicken. The verdict, in order, is amazing, great but aint no Bentleys and How the hell did they make the chicken so tender? The pace of the service is perfectly languid and meshes with our vibe exactly. Our entrees arrive and we chuckle to each other. They are huge. Doggie bags, I smile to Sweetie Pie. Lucky dog tomorrow, says Sweetie Pie. Lucky dog tonight, I woof.

The night swirls around us as we create another chapter in our own mythology. This night is mystical and magical. A night where no others may tread, ours and ours alone. We have dessert and coffee, Sweetie Pie orders the bananas flamb and we have fun watching the sauce caramelize under the dancing flames. I enjoy my dessert, it is delicious, but I have a giant DOH! moment when I realize bananas flamb is bananas foster with rum instead of bourbon. My favorite dessert. Sweetie Pie feeds me enough to leave me just short of satisfied. Shes such a tease. We follow with coffee and aperitifs. We linger, not wanting this night to end.



Sweetie Pie goes to make a visit and when she returns shes smiling a little. Bohemian couple is here, she says and points out their table. When I take my turn we trade pleasantries, they are really enjoying themselves. The parallel coincidence strikes me deeply on this day Ive put so much preparation toward. I wonder if they planned this day or simply stumbled on perfection. It reminds me of another favorite phrase of mine, though not really in this context  We are all on different paths to the same destination.

With no small effort we decide to head out. We have spent close to five hours winding our way through cocktails, a five course meal, coffee and aperitifs. We snap a picture of the candlelit terrace in the dark and say our goodbyes to Karen.

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## Guirigay

At the gate there is a taxi waiting. 500 to Home Sweet Home? I ask. Yah, mon, he says and opens the door. I saw you when you came in, mon. You look like the boss mon when you show up. The hat and jacket, mon, you be runnin the place. I like that, mon! These freakin Jamaicans! I dont know exactly how Sweetie Pie got home tonight, I know I flew.

We get back to the room and after Sweetie Pie slips into her little nothing I walk her out to the verandah and seat her facing out to sea. I grab a poem and turn off the lights. Kneeling behind her I caress her neck and tilt the page so I can see it in the rising moonlight. This poem reminds me of you, I say and recite:

She Walks In Beauty Like the Night
a poem by Lord Byron

She walks in beauty, like the night
Of cloudless climes and starry skies;
And all that's best of dark and bright
Meet in her aspect and her eyes:
Thus mellowed to that tender light
Which heaven to gaudy day denies.


One shade the more, one ray the less,
Had half impaired the nameless grace
Which waves in every raven tress,
Or softly lightens o'er her face;
Where thoughts serenely sweet express
How pure, how dear their dwelling place.


And on that cheek, and o'er that brow,
So soft, so calm, yet eloquent,
The smiles that win, the tints that glow,
But tell of days in goodness spent,
A mind at peace with all below,
A heart whose love is innocent! 

I drop the page in her lap and grab her belly and neck from behind. I nibble and kiss her ear lobe and whisper, I love you, Sweetie Pie, today, tomorrow, forever

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## Clarity

awwww!!!!! So romantic! The whole night!  :Embarrassment: 
You guys look beautiful together in those pictures from "Night of a hundred candles" At Catcha.
Tell Sweetiepie she looks stunning in that dress!

I loved reading this! I've been waiting for your next update and it was well worth the wait.  :Smile: 
I can't tell you how much I've enjoyed your trip report so far.
Thanks for sharing your love story with us

P.S. That's so great what SP is doing to try to help the dogs in Jamaica. Nice website so far.

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## marley9808

YAY!!!!!!!!!
I have been waiting (as patiently as I could) for this update, partly because I have been enjoying your report so much and the other part, for more selfish reasons, I have been waiting on your review of the "Night of 100 candles"
I love it! Just as I have loved all of your other stories so far, what a great evening you had! You both look so happy and I just love hearing other people talk about their experiences, perception and overall feeling of Catcha....God I love that place. It is amazing and so is everyone there!
I am so glad you and Sweetie Pie got to experience it. 
I also enjoyed your visit with Miss Mae, glad you got to do that and I really loved the pictures, I haven't been back there in forever but I used to spend just about all of my time at the Pickled Parrot back in the day. It is there that I first jumped off a cliff, and after I swam into that cave and up to the bar. I thought it was the coolest thing I had ever seen. I told everyone back in the states about it for years! And though it has changed a lot those photos you posted took me back to some really great times and memories.

I don't want your report to ever end!

Also, to Sweetie Pie.....as a serious dog lover (actually animal lover) who worked as a vet tech all through college and even a little after, I think what you are doing is great! And I agree completely with your outlook on the dogs of Jamaica. And I will help any way I can. Thanks for what you are doing!

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## Patty Sather

I loved  this report...It seriously took my breath away to see you two in those pictures ..the cave, catcha, everything....I loved it all....

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## Coco

Absolutely wonderful!

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## Mike_D

Excellent report! I can't stop reading.

You probably mentioned this before, but what's the deal with the flower guy? Does he work at Home Sweet Home? 

I'm thinking the flowers would be a nice treat for the Misses.

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## Guirigay

Yes, Mike, he is a very nice young man who works at the restaurant and I arranged it through Charlie.

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## Guirigay

Friday

We wake with anticipation this morning, its road trip day. At the sunrise spot daybreak competes with Sweetie Pies radiance and takes a beating.



We snap a few pics of the resort this morning.
The high balcony above the dining room



The yard



The hammock 



And the view to the rooms across the courtyard. Our room is the top left on the two story block with the doors open  :Smile: 



We head down to the cliffs for Tai Chi and are greeted by a waterfall. You can see how it rotted away the steps that used to lead down to the terraces from the pool. The cracks in the cliff face indicate the inevitable fate of all that surrounds us, a peek into actions that operate on geological time scales. It is a perfect place and time for Tai Chi and the splash of the waterfall provides an ambience that brings our master to us; he is always fond of playing new age soundtracks during practice.

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## Guirigay

We grab the leftovers and head out for coffee. Sweetie Pie is running low on biscuits and is glad to have a little extra to pass out. Scar comes up with another dog this morning that weve seen nearly every day. They circle Sweetie Pie with joy.



I love this picture, Red Dog is licking her lips and staring right at Sweetie Pies biscuit pocket. Of course, I do the same thing all the time  :Embarrassment: 



Sweetie Pie has saved the leftovers for Scar. She drops a biscuit for Red Dog and we walk along. Scar follows but Red Dog grabs the biscuit and moves off. When its just us and Scar he gets the treats and we walk away. He scarfs it all down and is back on our heels before we get to Easy Rock. He waits in silent vigil across the street again.



We are easily into our coffee ritual now, the flow of the morning is slow and comfortable. We have a cup on the verandah. Its Caribbean Shabby and we love it.



We wander the property with the second cup. I ask the German Bar guy, who is setting up, if its too early for a bratwurst with kraut and he nods. Dang! Ive heard really good things about them this week from several people. Before we leave Sweetie Pie gives her last biscuit to Jamaica. "First and Last," she says and gives him a big hug.

We stop and grab a pineapple from Pamela on the way back home. We stop and ask the kitchen for a knife and Roy cuts the pineapple up for us in next to no time. We feast on pineapple and dry coconut for breakfast. I am certain of this, I will have MANY more breakfasts of pineapple and dry coconut!

We get prepped for the road trip. A bag is loaded with swim suits, a face mask, fruit and accessories. Chris shows up early and Sweetie Pie notices him down by the gate. We call out. Yah, mon, whenever youre ready! We are.

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## Guirigay

A stop at the ATM and were underway. Thats two consecutive interactions with the financial system here with nary a hint of an issue. The streak ends here but only because of a funny quirk tomorrow.

We head out the Sav road and I slip into the wayback machine again, roadtripping to Sav, YS and the bamboo avenue with the family. Good times, they were. We have great conversation with Chris about his wife and family, his wedding in December, his business with Percy who is his older brother. As we turn north at Sav and head into the cane fields Chris says, Things gonna get a little slower now. Hes not kidding. At points we are crawling through lunar crater fields. He negotiates them with ease. We pass through several villages. These are old sugar cane villages but Chris says people go from here to work in Negril. Thats a long ride every day, I say. Yah, mon, but the work in the cane fields is rough. He lists the problems  heat, sun, long hours, hard labor, low pay, injury, constantly being cut and sliced by the cane leaves  but worst he says is that all of that together ages you physically at a rapid rate. You can tell right away if someone works the cane, he says.

We pass a lot of empty small roadside establishments but in one small village there is a somewhat bigger bar that has maybe half a dozen folks hanging out as we roll bye. They wave, hoot and holler as we pass. We catch glimpses of the mountains were heading into through the cane fields. As we get closer it is very obvious that they shoot straight up from the alluvial plain. They seem to be too steep to hold vegetation yet they are covered completely in a wide variety of flora.

As we ascend we ask Chris if he makes this trip often. No, not too often, he says, Its been a while since Ive been up here. A lot of drivers wont go because their worried about damaging their car. I watch him carefully in the tough spots as I drive 4x4s off-road at home. He is an excellent driver.  The entire day on some wild patches of road he never bellies on anything, never bottoms out a shock, never even spins a wheel! The landscape is wild, straight up to your left, straight down to your right. At one point you cross a saddle between two peaks and it is straight down both ways just beyond the edge of the road. And the road aint wide! At different spots along the road are small communities literally clinging to the sides of the hill. Some amazing rudimentary engineering has taken place to support the structures in these villages. Every structure we see has some form of bamboo or lumber post holding it up.

We are awed. Do you think you would want to live here? asks Chris. As beautiful as it is, probably not, we say. Yah, mon, he says, One good rain and you can lose your house! We come around a big curve that circles the hillside of a small hanging valley. On the peak of the spur that shoots out to create this valley sits the small village of Mayfield. It is very picturesque so, of course, we shoot no pictures! Chris gets higgled by a couple of roadside establishments as we roll through town. The craziest part of the road is the last little bit into the parking lot. Chris handles it beautifully. He spends more time navigating the lot for a good shaded parking spot than he does any of the washouts today. Not gonna park under that mango tree, he says pointing to his windshield, made that mistake before!

We are greeted by a lovely lady who runs a little bar next to the parking lot. Come have a cold drink after your hot drive, she says. Chris has run into an old friend he hasnt seen in a long time and they are excited to see each other. He waves us to the bar, Ill be waiting. We grab a cold Stripe and chat with the lady. Youre going to love it, she says, I guarantee youll be amazed. As we head out she says, Come back and have another when youre done and tell me what you think. If you dont love it Ill buy your drink. Thats a good pitch.

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## Guirigay

As we walk out Chris leaves his buddy and walks us down to the falls. Good friend, he says, Long time since we see each other, Lotta catching up to do. Hes kind of excited. We head down a road from the parking lot that is in REALLY bad shape. I wouldnt bring your car down this either, I say to Chris. No, no, says Chris. As we near the bottom we see a car loading up with some older tourists. We step to the side of the sort of road as they head up. We hear a couple of metal on rock scrapes as it continues up and shoot each other some funny looks.

If Im not down here when youre done, Ill be up with my friend, says Chris. Yah, mon, I say, knowing exactly where hell be. We meet a guide in the first building we go to, he says to go pay over at the bar and hell meet us there. As we walk over a few of the guides and vendors mill around us. Im telling Sweetie Pie a few of the things I know about the place from reports here. Theres a discussion in the bar in Patois about who is going to be our guide. One guys not sure he wants to take us. He already knows the place, hes gonna want to be the guide, hes gonna tell her everything, aint gonna be nothing for me. When our guide comes and introduces himself Im determined to keep my mouth shut and only follow his lead unless I have a question. This is not particularly natural or easy for me but I think I do an OK job.

We change into suits and as Im waiting for Sweetie Pie I talk to Dave, our guide, about taking pictures for us. I hand him some money and mention Ive seen some great pictures from here. In the middle of this conversation another young man has joined us and Dave kind of looks at him. Eneil introduces himself and says he is a photographer for the falls. $20 to provide us with a CD of photos of our visit. This is how we make a living, he says. Dave looks at him and me and nods. I agree to the photo deal and tell Dave to keep the money.

We head out with an entourage. Eneil is walking with us most of the time but occasionally disappears behind us or trots off in front of us. Dave is leading and talking and every so often saying, Stop there, and taking a picture on my iPhone.  We stop at a pile of drying root stock on a hillside. Do you know what this is? he asks as he breaks a small root in two and passes it under our noses. I smell Jamaican curry. Turmeric! Sweetie Pie exclaims. Yes, exactly, says Dave. Sweetie Pie loves this kind of stuff, I say, Shes an excellent cook. Can I taste it? Sweetie Pie asks. No, no! replies Dave, Your tongue and mouth and teeth will all be stained yellow. We talk about how the turmeric is harvested, It just grows wild here, and have a discussion about property rights and whether they operate on the basis of the commons. They sort of do but it is a very Jamaican interpretation. If you know that its somebodys you dont take it, if its not then you take what you need.

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## Guirigay

We reach the river and the excitement builds. We step into the river and wont leave its shores for quite some time. Sweetie Pie asks Eneil about how his camera is set up. He looks at her a little strangely because shes talking f stops, aperture settings, etc. Shes a professional photographer, I say trying to help him out. He looks incredulous, You said she was a cook, and then he looks at her, What do you do now, really? How can you do so many things? Sweetie Pie clears things up and she and Eneil have a connection that grows through the afternoon. A lot of chatting back and forth. Eneil really wants to be a professional photographer and has a ton of questions for Sweetie Pie.

Mayfield Falls is a rugged spot. Even though it was fairly full of tourists the day we were there the river and falls have been left in a condition that makes it easy to let yourself drop back in time to when natives first discovered this gem. There is no sign of any development near the river and the only permanent indication of human presence is the footpath that runs near the river in spots and a limestone wall at one point that has a lot of stick carving done on it. Even that has a fairly ancient hieroglyphic feel to it. You walk straight up the river from one small waterfall to another. At just about every little fall there is some sort of break in the boulders or ledge that creates a rush of water. Almost all of these rushes fall onto a spot where you can sit. These seats all become different variations of a natural Jacuzzi. It is really a lot of fun.



As we get a little ways up the river weve passed several impressive bunches of flora that Dave just wont seem to mention so I have to say, Look up on the hillside, Sweetie Pie, see how tall and straight they are, thats some BIG BAMBOO! I get a good laugh from everybody. There are large clumps of bamboo all along the upper hillsides of the river bank here. They bend and meet over the river like gothic cathedral vaults. It adds to the sense of making a verdant pilgrimage.



After a couple of nice Jacuzzi seats we approach what looks like another nice little rush of water. Go on up to it, says Dave as he walks up to the shore. As you get nearer to the rush the water gets deeper than any place weve been in the river yet. Eventually you cant touch bottom and the current of the river pushes you back. Dave and Eneil laugh. I wont be denied and I backstroke my way to the eddy and swim in place for a bit. Its a very unusual and enjoyable sensation. Yah, mon, thats the way you do it! encourage Dave and Eneil.

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## Guirigay

A little further up the river and we see some strange looking rock formations in the middle of the river.  The tunnels! Im thinking and Im right. Theres a tunnel under this rock, says Dave standing on big flat piece of stone in the river maybe eight to ten feet wide, You can swim through it. Well, heck, Im ready! I jump into the pool above the rock and as I do I can see light under the rock formation to the right of the pool. Oh, I see the tunnel, I say and Dave and Eneil laugh. Thats the ladies tunnel, laughs Dave, Or Chickens! teases Eneil. No your tunnel is down here, says Dave, You cant see it until you go under. Stay low or youll scrape your back. A few deep breaths and down I go. As I drop to the bottom the darkness in front of me gives way a blurry light in the distance. I crab my way along the bottom and emerge in the pool on the far side. I come out of the water fully present in a moment I have anticipated for weeks. I am ecstatic. I turn around and whoop and completely lost in the moment let out a maniacal laugh.



Eneil gets a kick out of this and turns to Dave and says in Patois, Hes laughing like an idiot, mon, he loves it! They insist that Ive done it easily, Now you have to do it going the other way, against the current.As I start to get my breath Eneil adds, And through the ladies tunnel before you come up! I take a couple of extra breaths. I get through the big tunnel and have plenty of breath left so I turn and swim through the small tunnel. As I come up this time Dave, Eneil and Sweetie Pie whoop. Dude. What. A. Time.

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## Guirigay

We walk up the river to a big pool. “This is the deepest part of the river,” says Dave,” A good swim spot.” We swim for a while and I dive with the mask. The limestone mineral water of the river has an unusual hue. Sweetie Pie gets out and chats with Dave and Eneil while I am diving. As we move on to the next spot Sweetie leans in and quietly says, “Dave and Eneil say you are a true Jamaican.” This stuns me for a second. I look at Sweetie Pie, “Really?” She smiles and nods, “Yup!” So. OK. In a week filled with the most surprising and unexpected compliments I can easily say toss the rest. Hands down winner right here. Among the best I’ve EVER received. Respect.



We come up to a ledge waterfall and you can see that under a spot there is an alcove you can go back into. Sweetie Pie has been having trouble with one of her contact lenses since the very first Jacuzzi seat and hasn’t tried everything she would like to because of this but she is going in under these falls. She likes it but almost immediately has trouble with her lense. Eneil really wants to get a nice photo here and takes several shots. There are some very funny squishy face shots of Sweetie Pie, I thought about posting them then sanity paid a brief visit. Eneil stuck in there until he got a good one.



We walk up the river again, we see a large waterfall in the distance. “This is the Washing Machine!” Dave announces.  We see a large multi-course waterfall dropping into a nearly rock wall surrounded basin creating a turbulent, churning, bubbling roil of water. We make out a figure under the main fall as we approach and watch as they emerge from the behind the water veil. It is beautiful AND super cool. Sweetie Pie is concerned about her contact lense but is not passing on this opportunity. As we are under the fall we can hear yelling from beyond. We’re not exactly sure what they’re saying but we guess they’re asking for the ubiquitous thumbs up. We respond correctly.

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## Guirigay

We chill here for a while, I grab a snack and we hang with Dave. Eneil grabs a shot of us relaxing on the rocks then passes his camera to another local and dives in for a swim. We dont see him again until were back at the bar and shops. Dave clambers over the falls and grabs a shot of the Washing Machine sign above the falls. What I really want is a picture of Dave taking that shot. Freaking Aqua-Gymnast! We didnt find the walk back too bad but we had our Keens on and had been humping it at least 5 miles a day all week. Dave shows us Orchids and the touchy plant and several other things on the way back.

We are hit up by the vendors when we get back to the village. Very nice stuff but again we have to beg off, no room for your beauties. Dave has some one snap a picture of him on my iPhone while we shop in the background. We go to the bar and order some food. Has to be curry chicken after smelling that turmeric. We get Dave a beer and he and I sit down to chat. Sweetie Pie tracks Eneil down.



Dave and I talk about a lot of things but we have a very interesting talk about women, his experiences and mine. At the end of it Im saying something about Sweetie Pie, Shes a good one, he says, You should keep her.  Thats the plan, I tell him.



Sweetie Pie returns and we share the chicken curry. Its very good. Fresh turmeric, smiles Dave. Sweetie Pie has been talking with Eneil about things to do to advance his profession. She has his contact info and agrees to help him get a website up on the hosting company she operates. Sweetie Pie!!

Dave says the next time we come back hell take us up the river beyond the Washing Machine. Very quiet up there, you can pack a lunch, spend the day, he says. How many tours do you give in a day? I ask. Really busy days you can get two, most days just one, he says, Lot of guides working, he says. I give him another tip on our way out.

We pick up our photo CD from Eneil and he makes a point of telling me before we leave, Shes a very nice lady. I have to agree. I return the compliment to Eneil and wish him the best of luck.

We walk up the sort of road. This actually makes our thighs burn. It is STEEP. We get to the top and see a motorcycle and a scooter in the parking lot. Two guys are milling around them talking. Lovely bar lady sees us first and calls out, Come on over me friends, How did you enjoy it? Were buying our own drinks! I say with a laugh. Thats right! I knew it! Thank you for coming back. We grab a roadie and have a quick chat. She really is a lovely lady.

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## Guirigay

Chris was in rapt conversation with his buddy when we walked up but made his goodbyes as we grabbed our beers and comes over to pick us up. As we head down the difficult road Chris tells us about the bikes. Fella road up here from Negril on that scooter, he says, can you believe it? Well only because we saw it in the parking lot. Got a flat tire on the last stretch. This doesnt surprise us, what surprises us is he didnt get one BEFORE the last stretch. Guy on the motorcycle is trying to help him but thats not going to be easy. That is a hilarious understatement. He needs a truck, not a motorcycle, I say. Yah, mon. Hes got a difficult evening ahead of him, I add. Oh Yah, mon.

Chris says if we see anything we want a picture of to let him know, hell stop. Were chatting and viewing and miss a bunch of great pictures but do stop for one that I think is gorgeous.



We come out of the mountains and into the cane fields and see men heading down the road in heavy wool shirts. Coming in from the cane fields, says Chris and you can tell his description this morning was dead accurate. They wear the heavy shirts to protect themselves from the cane, he says.

We pass the roadside bar and it is busier. Thats the place to be, eh? I ask. Yah, mon, says Chris and provides a very entertaining description of a day in the life of a village bar from the first folks headed of to work to the guys who just dont want to go home for a variety of reasons at the end of the night.

We drive through Sav and I say, Its market day, isnt it? Yah, mon, you want to drive down to it? I love market days in the Caribbean, theyre like the essence of community to me. Of course. So we take a left instead of a right. Shops seem to put everything out on the street on market days. We pass a few dress shops that have mannequins stacked four high out front. Theyre all sexy dresses. Jamaican women love their sexy dresses and pretty much all men love Jamaican women in their sexy dresses. I promise Sweetie Pie I will buy her a Jamaican sexy dress one day, she is totally built for it. We pass street-side lingerie shops. What a place! The town is bustling and we love it.



We head out of Sav and Chris says hell take us back on what he calls the highlight tour, along the coast south of Negril and back in to town going past the lighthouse. Its a beautiful drive and he points out many places we could build or buy a house. We pass Jamaica Jurassic Park on the way. We get back to the hotel and settle on a noon pickup tomorrow to get to the airport.

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## Guirigay

A quick visit to the bar and were down to the cliffs for our last sunset. We snap a few pictures and I know one of them is just about perfect. As we grab a couple of pics together waiting for the sun to go down the iPhone dies. Reminded of whats really important we turn and share our last sunset this reach in serene satisfaction.



When we return to the room I tell Sweetie Pie that weve missed some poetry and I plan on being drunk when we return tonight. Would you like to be showered with poetry? I ask. She smiles and I tell her this is the poem I intended for today.

Love's Philosophy
By Percy Bysshe Shelley


The fountains mingle with the river
 And the rivers with the ocean,
The winds of Heaven mix forever
 With a sweet emotion;
Nothing in the world is single;
 All things by a law divine
In one spirit meet and mingle.
 Why not I with thine? -

See the mountains kiss high Heaven
 And the waves clasp one another;
No sister-flower would be forgiven
 If it disdained its brother;
And the sunlight clasps the earth
 And the moonbeams kiss the sea:
What is all this sweet work worth
 If thou kiss not me?

I take the sheet of paper and drop it softly on her belly and continue saying, This may be the most erotic description of flora and fauna Ive ever read.

Come Slowly
a poem by Emily Dickinson

Come slowly, Eden
Lips unused to thee.
Bashful, sip thy jasmines,
As the fainting bee,
Reaching late his flower,
Round her chamber hums,
Counts his nectars -alights,
And is lost in balms! 

As I finish I drop the page on her chest say, This is old school flowery verse but I think it is beautiful, appropriate and an absolute reflection of how I feel.

Bright Star, Would I Were Steadfast as Thou Art
a poem by John Keats

Bright star, would I were steadfast as thou art
Not in lone splendour hung aloft the night,
And watching, with eternal lids apart,
Like nature's patient sleepless eremite,
The moving waters at their priestlike task
Of pure ablution round earth's human shores,
Or gazing on the new soft-fallen mask
Of snow upon the mountains and the moors;
No yet still steadfast, still unchangeable,
Pillow'd upon my fair love's ripening breast,
To feel for ever its soft fall and swell,
Awake for ever in a sweet unrest,
Still, still to hear her tender-taken breath,
And so live ever or else swoon to death. 



I drop the last page on her hips and kiss her

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## Guirigay

A while later we head out for dinner. We have plans tonight to have chicken from the barrel that sets up each night next to Gass. We see it every night from our hotel room door and have told him were going to stop. As we head over this evening we see Old Indy standing at the barrel. Sweetie Pie and I look at each other and then the ground as we keep on walking. Bummer, we say, we had heard some good things about the chicken. Well then, Three Dives? and were off.

We order a half chicken and side of fries and get a couple of beers. We head out to the campfire by the edge of the cliff. In the dark I point out to Sweetie Pie faintly discernible outline of three fingers jutting out from the cliff. OK, Three dives, I get it, she says. It is a beautiful night and we enjoy the fire. A young boy comes out and sits next to us. Hello, he says. We mention how nice the fire on the cliff is and he says, Its getting low, and up he jumps calling out to someone. Owners kid, we figure.

After a while we decide well move up to the dining room. We sit down at a picnic table with another couple. Theyre nearly finished, it turns out they ordered exactly what we did. Perfect amount, they say, Were stuffed. I go grab us a couple more Stripes and the food shows shortly. Great chicken, great fries but I wish Id known the veggie was callaloo. I would have ordered an extra side of it. We try to get another side but that doesnt go well. When were done were stuffed too.

Were going to TRY to carouse tonight, we head for PeeWees. We settle into a couple of seats at the bar and order dirty bananas followed by rum and tings. Groups come and go but we stay. Lots of Canadians come in tonight and we have a hoot. We have the BEST times with Canadians this reach. Bentleys Boarder stops in and we talk. He has lived down here on the cheap for a few long stretches. We get some great info for future reaches. We talk about low dollar days. He says $15-20 a day without your room if you are careful. Good guy, we hope hes doing well.

We have a long talk with an older local out on the terrace. Hes a cool guy and when I head back for a drink I ask him if I can buy him one. He gives me a look I will never forget and says, Id rather have a piece of chicken, I havent eaten today. I go up and talk to the bartender. I think its Gatey, the son of the owner who passed away last year. Ask him if I can buy the guy a dinner. He asks who and I point him out. He nods and says 500 will get him a good dinner across the street. I ask for change and hook him up.

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## Guirigay

Im starting to get lit. Sweetie Pie says rock on, shell be sure we get back safe. I need a sipping drink and tell Gatey so. He thinks for a second and then pours a glassful of Appletons, looks through the bottles and pulls out a green bottle. Pours a splash in the glass and hands it to me saying,Sip this. He sets it on the bar and then points at me, Sip. I take a sip and believe I have found one of the great elixirs of life. What is that? I ask in amazement. Appleton and Stones, says Gatey. Yes it is, yes it is indeed. Its like a Jamaican Martini, I say and Gatey likes that. The warning to sip is well founded. The Stones smoothes out the rum like a good vermouth does for gin. You could slam it if you werent thinking. I sip a bunch of them for the rest of the night.

As things get hazy another group of Canadians shows up and the group has a ring leader of a lady who just cracks me up. Im rolling so we get in a back and forth. She gets Gatey to plug in her phone and we start listening to some really cool modern reggae I havent heard before. Im digging it. Its like Trip-hop Reggae. Who is this? I ask and she is super excited to tell someone. Michael Frontia! she says and goes on and on about him. I got a new music hook-up! We go round and round while listening to at least half a dozen different songs by him. I tell her if she likes this she should listen to Tricky. Shes never heard of him. Payback!!

I give Gatey my last 500 and say, Give me the long, slow sipper. He smiles and pours me a tall Appleton and Stones. Were past eleven now and Sweetie Pie has the pumpkin look going. Were going to make midnight, Sweetie! I say sloppily, Were keeping you out! A little while later Sweetie Pie informs me that there are needs to be taken care of that wont be taking place here. I was here earlier this week, she says and I realize we wont be making midnight at Pee Wees. When we make our goodbyes Gatey wants to give me change from the last 500 I gave him. We will be back to Pee Wees.

Sweetie Pie guides me Home Sweet Home. Business is attended to and we do manage to see midnight on the verandah. We fade to black with an intense sense of satisfaction.

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## lisapat

Guirigay.....really enjoying your report....seriously thinking of a Mayfield Falls visit this reach

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## irie always

Got some catching up to do on this one - great report and terrific pictures - Mayfield is a great natural excusion. I wonder if what she was listening to was Michael Franti. I love his vibes.

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## Patty Sather

WOW! I love this report  :Smile:

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## Guirigay

Irie - that is SO funny. I should have done my fact checking on the spelling BUT... We were both pretty looped but I just talked to Sweetie Pie to confirm this point. We went round and round on the spelling of the name 'cause I was popped and knew she was too and I didn't want to forget. F-R-O-N-T-I-A I repeated a couple of times after she said I had it wrong with just an I. Freakin' drunks in Negril, ha ha. Thanks for the hook up  :Smile:  Yes, Michael Franti...

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## lisapat

usually can find as Michael Franti and Spearhead..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TPw8MQXjDDM   one of my favs

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## marley9808

Michael Franti is amazing! Such a great guy.
If you like his music you absolutely MUST check him out in concert, he is amazing.

And if he ever comes to your town for a show, be sure to go down to the venue some time during the day before the show....he likes to stand outside barefoot with his guitar and play a set on the street for free hours before the concert....He is awesome!!!
One of my faves too  :Smile:

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## Clarity

Beautiful! So glad you and Sweetie pie enjoyed Mayfield falls. Your pics are so great! 
You both look so happy! :Smile: 
Swimming under those rocks with rushing current is so invigorating isn't it?!
Looking forward to your next update!

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## TizzyATX

Guiri....you're report is A-MA-Ziiiiing!!!  Lovely photos of you and your lady, and you can sense the magic between you two.  I'm not much of a romantic but damn you had me a couple times. lol  

Got some crazy vocab too. Wish I could write like that....

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## SweetSue

Beautiful.  I enjoyed every entry.  Thank you for sharing this!

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## Guirigay

Saturday

We awake this morning with the undesirable Jamaican dreads, the last day variety. We look out to our sunrise spot for the last time.



We head up and are greeted by an astonishing view. The sea is like glass this morning and the reflections of the pre-dawn clouds are mesmerizing. It offers a moment to ponder the value of looking backward, What a great week weve had, Sweetie. The greatest week Ive ever had, says Sweetie Pie. Yet! pipes in the Evil Dr. Yes. The quality of the light in general this morning is spectacular as we are cloud covered on the coast but when you look to the east it appears to be mostly just a morning humidity haze. The Reliables walk by on the West End road. Every morning this week, just a minute or two before the sun rises, the Reliables have walked by with their dog. Waves became hellos that turned into pleasantries. Today its Goodbye and Safe Travels. We snap some pics of the views and head down for Tai Chi.



I grab a pic of Sweetie Pie on our favorite terrace and then we do our repititions. We take a few shots after to remind us of this supremely serene practice spot.



We sit on the cliff for a few minutes talking about what wed like to do this morning. Gotta get a last swim in so we run up and jump into our suits and into the sea we go. I know we spent a little while swimming but it seems like were out in seconds. Last swims are great. Last swims suck.

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## Guirigay

After a quick shower were heading out when we run into Robert and Carol. Weve really enjoyed their company this week and we have a nice chat. Were heading back to the ATM one more time to get settling cash and Robert, who has had a car all week unbeknownst to us, offers a ride. Now weve known that Robert has a little problem hearing but I think hes pretty close to deaf in his left ear because I say three or four times on the way down that well turn in just past the Commerce Bank without any response from him. When we get there we just roll right on by. Sweetie Pie and I just look at each other. Finally, when we near the roundabout Robert looks over and says Where to? We smile, Well, back there. Robert is too kind, and shortly were at the bank. Would you like me to wait? he asks but weve got coffee and breakfast plans. What a great guy.

We are the only ones at the ATM this morning and its door is ajar. We dont think anything of this and close it when we step in. Weve figured out what we need to settle and tip and quickly get what we need. When we turn to leave the door wont open! We spend a good minute or so trying to figure out what the hell is going on, how do you get locked IN an ATM! A Jamaican walking into the shopping center sees us flailing about and comes up to the door. Theres a button somewhere up near here, he says pointing on the door frame. There it is, a little doorbell ringer like button! We walk out and have the best laugh with our liberator.

We walk up the road one last time. It is an absolutely perfect morning and as were walking we talk about what an incredible environment this place is for a photographer. We grab a couple of shots that are just too easy.



When we walk into Easy Rock Max isnt there. An older lady at the bar says he is next door at the bar. We walk down to the bar next to the coffee shack and before we even get inside we know whats going on, you can hear the TV and the boys chattering. Match today, Sweetie, I say. Little did I know. Max is transfixed on the screen when we come in, even after we call out. A couple of his buddies nudge him and he responds. Oh, Hey!, he says, How ya doing! Man U is on this morning! Let me get my stuff, Ill go make you some coffee. He starts to pull his things together on the bar. I look at the TV and its not just Manchester United playing, its Manchester vs. Liverpool! In soccer this is like Yankees-Dodgers, Cowboys-Steelers, Lakers-Celtics. There is no way were letting Max make us coffee. No problem, brudda, were not taking YOU away from THIS game to make us coffee. We just wanted to come and say goodbye and I put some money on the bar, say thanks, mon, its been a great week. Sweetie Pie walks up and gives Max a big hug. They have a true moment and pass a few words of future friendship. Max comes and gives me a hug and then meets my eyes, Shes very special, mon, and he shakes his head. All I can do is nod and smile. Im a little misty now thinking about it. Good man, Max, well see you soon.

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## Guirigay

We head across the road to Mi Yard. We had been planning on having breakfast here after Maxs coffee but now well have both. I dont know their names but the older guy who had served appetizers on the pub crawl and his wife are working. Very nice people. We order Ackee and Saltfish and I ask if I can get a plate of Saltfish and Dumplings. A plate of JUST dumplings? He asks. Yeah, I love them, I say and he has a conversation with his wife I dont catch all of except he mentions having served them on the Pub Crawl in a sort of See, I told you kind of way. I think serving the appetizers on the Pub Crawl is a great idea, I say, Bet you get some business out of that. Yah, mon, I think its a good idea, and he shoots his wife a smile. We get coffees and a small rum cream and chill out to the porch.

There are a group of people on the boat beach across the road talking and milling about. Im caught by the scene unfolding through the Mi Yard entrance and go to grab a shot. What I would have given for a lense with a deep field of focus.



The food arrives and is delicious. The Ackee and Saltfish is particularly good and we say so. Were known as the home of Ackee and Saltfish in Negril, say Mr. Yard. I can tell you its REALLY good. The dumplings are excellent and just before I finish them off Sweetie Pie tears off a chunk and sets it aside. Scar? I ask and get a smile and nod. Sweetie Pie has had all the coffee she wants and there is still a big pour of rum cream left. I fill the cup and go in to see Mr. Yard. The cup is about three quarters full of rum cream. Just a splash to cut the rum cream, please. Mr. Yard makes the quickest tip of the pot possible and a few drops find their way into my cup. Perfect, I say and we both smile as the pot goes back on the burner.

We sit on the porch for a while, neither one of us wants to leave. Everything from this point forward will be part of the inevitable march that leads us away from our place. A check on the laundry list for departure, a roll of the parchment that has been our tale. A fitting spot for the last picture in Negril, hanging on the porch of Mi Yard



We run into Scar on the way back to Home Sweet Home and he gets a little bite of dumpling. I wish I could hug you, little fella, says Sweetie Pie, Good luck. We wonder if well ever see him again. The life of Jamaican street dogs is very short.

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## Guirigay

Back at the hotel we head up to the room for the last time. We pack trying to account for the need to grab extra layers of clothing before we grab the shuttle to our car tonight. Were supposed to meet Coolbook and HH for an Academy Award Short Film Festival after party in Detroit tonight so were trying to figure out how well look decent as well as semi-warm. Even with those concerns significantly less effort goes into stuffing the bags than did just over a week ago. Toss it, smush it, close it.

We haul the bags down to reception and say our farewells to Charlie and the staff and make sure everyone who has been a part of our wonderful week gets a little something. We head down to the cliffs for the last time and take a moment to soak it in. What a beautiful place, what lovely people, what a great week.

As we come up to the hotel Chris is there waiting. We load up and are on our way. The ride down our daily walk brings conflicting emotions of so many pleasant memories and disheartening pangs of departure. Chris is such a good nature guy, though, that you cant be down for too long. He has us talking about our trip and future plans in no time. We are talking about the amazing colors in Negril and the great paint jobs so many places do on their buildings.I want you to tell me what you think of these buildings coming up, says Chris. We have fun disparaging the color schemes of the RIUs, were going to see if we can find a more abhorrent color on any building between here and Mo Bay. We dont.

We havent had a Jelli Coconut all week, I say, If you see any on the way can we stop? I know a place, says Chris. Somewhere around Orange Bay or Green Island we see lights being strung up between a few roadside bars and a number of people busy pulling things together. Gonna be a Jump Up here tonight? I ask Chris. Yah, mon, you know it! Gonna be the place to be tonight, eh? Yah, mon, exactly! Sweetie Pie doesnt know what a Jump Up is. I explain that its a big street party mostly attended by locals but it wouldnt be unusual to see a few tourists there. Its a real Jamaican party, I say. Thats what we need to do next time! says Sweetie Pie. Yah, mon, theres one just about every week someplace, says Chris, I know where theyll be, I can take you next time. Hook up!!

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## Guirigay

We pull into a nice roadside stand above the Grand Palladium, it has a nice big parking area but its empty. Chris gets out and greets what is obviously an old friend. Coupla Jellis, says Chris and the gentleman pulls out two green coconuts from an ice chest. With two quick chops he has topped our coconut and hands it to us with a straw. He has left just the thinnest bit of soft coconut meat to keep the whole thing sealed. You have to pop through the skin like a childrens juice box. The water is really cold and delicious. He has lopped off the top of Chriss completely and he turns it up and slugs it, water splashing over and dripping down his chin a little. Thats how I remember it! I say to Chris as Sweetie Pie and I finish off our jelli. The coconuts are busted open and we use a little bit of the husk to scoop out the jelli. Like coconut custard, I say. One a day, every day I can, smiles Chris. As were getting back in the car Chris points out to the massive sea of industrial looking rooftops on the Grand Palladium. He used to have a great view here, He says, One of the best, lots of people stopped.

You want something to eat before you get to the airport? Chris asks as we approach Mo Bay. We are hungry and know what awaits us past the terminal doors. You want to go back to Pork Pit or do you want to try another place? We loved Pork Pit but ask what the other place is. Called Jerkys, says Chris. Well I think we need to try a place bold enough to declare themselves Jerkys in Jamaica, we say. Yah, mon, you compare and tell me what you think.

We pull in and order a couple of jerk porks and Stripes. While were waiting, which isnt really long, we witness one of the more unusual encounters of the trip. A Jamaican fella in his late twenties, probably, comes up to the young lady behind the counter and just rips into her for the service. Slow, unprofessional, discourteous, etc. He riffs long and hard and the poor girl just takes it. You got no business being in business, he says, You need to find different work. Then he leaves. I have no idea where this came from, she was quick, kind and corteous with us and the half a dozen other customers who were there in the few minutes we were. Weird. Jerkys is good. We really enjoy our first bite of it and when the jerk cook notices he tosses some festival in our baskets. I dont think the jerk at Jerkys got free festival. We finish our jerk in the car. What do you think?, asks Chris. Sweetie Pie and I agree. The pork is better at Jerkys, the sauce is a lot better at Pork Pit. Yah, mon.

At the airport we say our goodbyes and make sure we have plans for the future. I am reminded again, at this final farewell, that yes, You have a special lady. Thank you, Chris, blessings my friend.

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## brasi

> These are old sugar cane villages but Chris says people go from here to work in Negril. Thats a long ride every day, I say. Yah, mon, but the work in the cane fields is rough. He lists the problems  heat, sun, long hours, hard labor, low pay, injury, constantly being cut and sliced by the cane leaves  but worst he says is that all of that together ages you physically at a rapid rate. You can tell right away if someone works the cane, he says.


Just perfect. These are the kinds of things that make me so excited to chill with you guys...it seems we have lots of the same curiosities...you had to ask a LOT of questions before you were able to get this bit of info...thanks for an incredibly great read.

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## Guirigay

We get our boarding passes and Sweetie Pie looks at me smiling. I gotta take a picture! she says giggling. I dont know it until later but my straw hat is very unhappy at being removed from the humidity of its natural habitat. The brim is rolling up  and twisting in its losing battle with arid conditioning and has gone all Clem Cadiddlehopper on me without my notice. Sweetie Pie snaps a picture. A passing traveler asks if wed like a picture together. Sweetie Pie runs over and pulls my hat off, plunking it on her head. She doesnt want a picture with me looking like the first one!



We get into the security line for departure and there is a family in front of us with two young girls around six or seven whove had nice braid jobs done. It takes me back again to my little girl, she loved having her hair braided on Caribbean vacations. How long do you think youll keep them, I ask, I think my daughters record was about six weeks. Longer than that! says one girl. Forever! says the other. They are adorable. A few corral turns later and the girls are in a very important discussion with their Dad. How can it be, desert and dessert? Theyre nothing like each other and theyre spelled the same. Their Dad patiently explains that theyre not the same but many times words have different meanings. They dont get it. That makes no sense! they say, Desserts are delicious and deserts are terrible! I laugh and the Dad looks at me and smiles. I remember telling my kids about that, I say, They didnt get it either. Dont EVEN mention deserters. He laughs, Oh, I know. Im not going to touch that one. I think all parents have this conversation. You know, I not only remember having that conversation with my kids, I remember thinking that made no sense as a kid. I think it may be the first paradox kids are aware of because of the treat connection, I say and Im moved by the synchronicity of this moment. Circle of life, says the dad.

We get to the boarding area and look for Robin. We find her and have a seat. Shes had a great week, she says, but she is kind of morose. We hope it is because her week was so great she didnt want to leave. The plane is late departing and they pre-load a very elderly lady in a wheel chair with an oxygen tank.

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## Guirigay

We take off and Sweetie Pie and I crank our necks at the window to catch the last possible glimpse of Jamaica. Because the flight originates in Jamaica we get free TV and movies. Sweetie Pie and I are political junkies and we settle in to watch Ides of March. Just after passing into Florida the plane makes a long bank turn to the right. It should not be doing that and for a moment I think the worst. Things are about to get real strange.

Ladies and gentlemen, comes the pilots voice over the intercom, were going to be making an emergency landing in West Palm Beach. Were having a passenger incident that requires immediate attention. Were sorry for the inconvenience and hope you will understand that we would do the same thing for you. We should be on the ground in 10-15 minutes. We see activity at the bulkhead row where the elderly lady had been seated. She is lifted from her seat and lain down on the floor. Two attendants disappear to the floor and a third is standing above them counting out and giving commands. This goes on for some time. We see the attendant shake his head but keep counting, keep prompting action. A short while later he shakes his head then drops it into his hands. The plane flies well out over the Atlantic before it turns finally to make its approach to West Palm Beach. There is no need to hurry now.

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## Guirigay

We touch down and are met by an assortment of emergency vehicles. Paramedics come first, then guys in sort of low end hazmat suits. They clean up the floor. About a dozen folks deplane after the elderly lady is removed, we wonder what that is about. This is probably the most unique information flow Ive ever been involved in. You never heard or saw anybody say anything to anyone in front of or behind them but eventually everybody knows what has happened. An elderly lady of 92 had gone down to Jamaica to be at her sons wedding. She was terminally ill but received a Doctors permission to fly. The wedding had been on Monday and she had spent the week with 24 members of her family and her new daughter-in-laws family. They were flying home and she started to have trouble at the gate. Get on the plane, she was told, well land at the first available airport in the States if we have to. The folks who deplaned with her body were her immediate family. They were all Canadian.

We text Coolbook and HH and tell them we wont be meeting them tonight. They are dumbfounded by the reason. Were on the tarmac in West Palm Beach for over three hours. The Canadian citizenship issue creates a lot of problems for Immigration and Customs. No one makes a peep the entire time.

Well after we were supposed to land in Detroit we take off from West Palm Beach. The inflight entertainment system has reset itself for a US departure, nothings free. The flight was catered when it left Detroit this morning and the food and beverage service doesnt make it through the whole plane. No one complains, many people compliment the flight crew. The tone of the entire aircraft is very reverential. A look around the cabin on the way to the restroom indicates many people lost in contemplation. It is an easy moment to be caught up in reflection.

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## Guirigay

I think about the good fortune she had to be able to see her son wed in paradise and how happy he must have been for her to be able to be there. I think of the misfortune of having their anniversary forever tied to this tragedy. Birth, joy, renewal, pain, death and tragedy all rolled up in one unforgettable moment. My heart goes out to all of them.

I think of the flight crew coming to work this morning on a non-stop flight to paradise. Their expectations certainly had to be of a happy and excited group going down and a dejected but satisfied group coming back. There is nothing that can prepare you for having someone die in your arms, I know, and I cant believe how professional they all continue to be. My respect knows no bounds, they are amazing.

I think about what this means for Sweetie Pie and me. I pride myself on my ability to see connections that arent necessarily obvious to others, there must be something to this unforeseeable event that means something to our journey. The dream wedding that doesnt end happily ever after must have some association to the Family Man without a family. It feels like a unique event concocted by the Universe to drive home SOME relevant point to me. We talk very little on the flight to Detroit but we hold hands through long stretches of the flight. I decide at some point near our destination that figuring it out isnt the really important thing. In fact, it cant be figured out, only accepted. A crazy journey specific to me. What is really important lies gently resting in my lightly clasped left hand. A partner who loves and cherishes me through all of it, who shows through word and deed that her greatest desire is to be there by my side. Sweetie Pie!!

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## Guirigay

We land in Detroit and disembark. We, along with nearly every other passenger on the flight, pay our respects to the flight crew as we depart. We’re fairly far back in the plane but when we get out of the gate everyone, and I mean everyone, is milling around the gate. It is an incredible experience. I have chills and misty eyes right now recalling it. We have an impromptu memorial service and wake right there. There is hushed conversation amongst all of us. It is a shared experience that will remain forever for each of us. Many comments are made but nearly all end in “makes you think about what’s important.”

We head for luggage pick up and customs and immigration. Everyone in front of us peels off for luggage so Sweetie Pie and I end up being the first folks to the immigration line. The huge bullpen at Detroit is empty. “Did you have to wait for us?” we ask the first official waiting to guide us through. “Yes, we would have been gone three hours ago normally.” “We were rerouted, we had to land in Palm Beach, someone died,” I say expecting a little bit of a reaction. “Yeah, we heard,” says the immigration officer vey matter of factly. I’m more than a little surprised. “Does that happen often?” I ask. “You’d be surprised,” says the immigration officer, stating the obvious.

“It happens all the time.”

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## TizzyATX

WOW.

I'm speechless.  What a surprising bittersweet ending. 

I dont have to tell you again, but this was a great trip report. I enjoyed it very much.  Looking forward to crossing paths soon.

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## SweetSue

Your trip home had a sobering event but in a way a blessing.  This lady could have easily gave up, said I'm too sick to go and stayed home.  So many people do that, give up, don't try to live, settle for the safe route barely existing.  This gal wasn't going to have any of that.  She knew her time was short and she made the choice to make the most of it.  God Bless her and her family.  I hope that had a great week filled with making memories to last the rest of their lives.  She set an example to follow.  Don't quit, go after what matters to you, seize the moment and live life until the very end.  

Thank you again for this wonderful read.

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## Guirigay

Tizzy - thanks, we're looking forward to it ourselves.

SweetSue - Exactly, you got it. your welcome, I'm very glad you enjoyed it.

Brasi - YOU'RE excited? Set em up!!

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## Patty Sather

Wow..I was sobbing thru the last part of your report..what a amazing story .....

Everyone on that flight  was so humbled by that experience~ No one should take for granted the wonderful blessings we have when we have them ...what a sweet experience to have your sweetie there with you during this sad moment .....life is all about sharing the good and the bad ...sad and the glad...bless you two

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## marley9808

Wow!!!!!!!

Not much more I can say than that at this moment as I sit here at my desk with both tears in my eyes AND a smile on my face.
Thank you for your stories, your pictures, your experience, your perspective, and your overall outlook on everything. This was not your average trip report, and I enjoyed every minute of it!

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## Misti1

Well Guy you know how I STARTED reading your story, and with the new family near by I just finished it.  Too many magical moments to isolate them and comment on. I have teared up, laughed, and talked out loud to my computer screen like an idiot during various parts of this report.  Definitely one of the BEST things I have EVER read.  I wish you and your sweetie many many more happy trips to Jamaica and a bright and glorious future.

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## Clarity

Giurigay - I know I said this earlier, but I meant it. This is truly one of the best trip reports I've ever read. I went through all the emotions Misti1 described. I really felt like I was right there experiencing it all vicariously, every second of it. The ending was so bittersweet, my eyes were filled with tears. Thank you for taking the time to write this and share your experiences. Beautiful is the only word I can think of to describe the entire trip report. A true labor of love. I just read the whole thing out loud to Markus and he shares my sentiment.
Thank you.  :Embarrassment:

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## Guirigay

Thank you for all the positive comments and messages, I really appreciate them. I really wrote this FOR me and TO Sweetie Pie so it is extremely gratifying to know that others find it of value as well. I intend on editing it a little to clean it up and then I'm going to have it printed and bound for Sweetie Pie with all of the comments as an afterward.

Patty - the death was an amazingly life affirming moment for nearly everyone on that plane, I believe. I saw the good and the best of a lot of people there, it was incredible.

Marley - Tears AND Smiles? That makes me happy  :Smile:  Thrown in a laugh, a hmmmm and a WTF!! and you'd have just about everything I was shooting for!  :Smile: 

Misti - YOUR story blew me away. What an honor, thank you.

Clarity - Thanks, I can say much the same for your postings. There is an unusual thread of unnervingly final reality that has woven it's way through many of our experiences on this board lately.

I truly, TRULY look forward to meeting all of you in the next month or so. Thanks again.

Peace and Understanding

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## marley9808

Ha! Well I definitely laughed (many times) and I am almost 100% positive I threw out a few hmmmmms and wtf?!?!? so consider your goal accomplished, sir!

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## booger

I have the WTF's more than covered. Didn't realize someone died, not sure how I missed that part unless it was near a poem.  :Big Grin:

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## Patty Sather

Applause! On my feet applause !

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## Guirigay

Take a seat, Booger, I mean it, just sit down. Did you EVEN read the homework assignment? I'll bet the dog ate your classwork as well...  :Big Grin:

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## marley9808

LOL....oh, booger! Hahaha

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## mini mare

Thank you for sharing your trip. One of the best trip reports I've ever read. Hope you both enjoy many more years in Jamaica.

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## booger

> Take a seat, Booger, I mean it, just sit down. Did you EVEN read the homework assignment? I'll bet the dog ate your classwork as well...


*No the dog didn't eat my homework but y**eah, my dog ate* *my stash, man.* *Had it on the table* *and the little* *mo fo ate it, man. I had to follow him around with a little baggie for three days before I got it back.*

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## Coco

Lol!

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## gerryg123

Utterly fantastic trip report. You really went all out on this, and the result is spellbinding. I love the emotions you conveyed, the details (a LOT of details), the great photos of course a Love Story to tie it all together (plus a little tragedy). 

Best of all, you "told it like it was." That much is obvious. It's clear you love Negril and its people, and when you ran into a nut job or an ingrate -- oh yeah, they're out there at every turn -- you were willing to write about it. That puts it all in perspective. For everything great about Negril and the people of who live and work there -- and the tourists, too -- there are handful that just make you shake your head and go 'WTF.' .... I loved this report very much. You are one heck of a writer, a terrific reporter, and, frankly, surprisingly sensitive with all the poetry and lovey dovey stuff.

Well done. Well done. Well done. Cheers my friend. I raise a cold one in your honor, my good man.

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## Guirigay

Thank you Mini Mare, we hope so too!

Boog - or should I say Tommy -  I KNEW you'd put it all together!  :Smile:  Lobbed that big ol' softball up there and you crushed it!!  :Big Grin: 

Glad you hung around Coco, keep smilin'

Thanks Gerry, having been to Jamaica a couple of times before I knew those contradictions and paradoxes were there and plentiful. It is one of the things that draws me. I'll tap that cold one with my own in just over a month.

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## JnJLuv2Travel

WOW. What a great report. My eyes welled up more than once. The love you have for Sweetie is beautiful. What an awesome couple.

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## sbeth

Beautiful trip report - thank you!

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## Sweetness

Best trip report EVER!!!!  I shed so many tears (for many emotions).  You are a gentleman and all around sweet sweet man.  You could hold classes to teach men how to love.......you do it so well.  You know how I feel about you my dear soul mate and yes you have a very special woman in Sweetie Pie (her heart and beauty amaze me).  Thank you for sharing such personal times with us.  I am better for it.   Bless

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## Jaherring

Great trip report!!! Thanks for sharing it!

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## TizzyATX

Love that pic of you and Sweetie Pie, you look proud to be with her. lol  :Wink:

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## bjritz

Oh snap! Just finished reading this report Guirigay, saw the HSH link upstream, and all I can say is this was the catalyst or at least a well-placed cog in the gears of boardie relationships that helped last April's bash trip be so awesome. This is one kick ass report my man! Well-crafted suspense followed through flawlessly. The openness of your heart toward Sweetie Pie was so refreshing. Her reciprocation in the honesty of the photos, the love in her eyes for you and being willing to share with us is quite a gift.

What struck me was the way she would let you have your family memory moments in the places you and your kids had played. Even allowing the unrestricted revisiting of the haunts you and your ex had previously turned a memory. It takes a special person to give room freely for those moments from the past without being threatened or bothered by these. That was very cool. Sweetie Pie cred is up several notches.

The pics were absolutely delightful, and gave a nice flow through town, up the cliffs and down the beach. Thanks for those as well. 

Have a blast in Negril for the holidays; look forward to meeting up in person in April. Cool runnings!

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## marley9808

Sweetie Pie is awesome....wait until you meet her, you will see
But then again, her main squeeze is pretty great too
Birds (or should I say Turtles) of a feather....flock together!

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## Guirigay

Thanks BJ, it was a labor of love on many fronts. Much appreciated my fellow wordsmith. Look forward to meeting you in April.

Marley, is that something like Turtles of a Shell get along Swell? All Hail de Turtle Bale!!  :Smile:

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## marley9808

Perfect (as always!)

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## TizzyATX

I was gonna come up with a rhyme....but NOOOOOOO...hahaha

Love it GG!

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## Muzikdoc

Crazy...I never saw this report..funny thing is, I was there the whole time you guys were!  I watched the Superbowl at Yellowbird and hung out with Aimbre at Merrills a couple of nights! Amazing we never crossed paths or maybe we did??? and didn't know it..But now I am lucky to know you two wonderful people..and feel blessed!

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## Aimbri

We remember you Muzikdoc.. Very cool person you are. Hope to run into you again someday.

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## Smokin Kevan

Guirigay...Thank You for the Supertramp link on "Downstream"...It reminded me so much of my relationship with my wife of 22 years.
My Mom passed on Sept. 7th after living with us for two years, as she fought Alzheimers... My wife was there thru it all, caring for my Mom
loving and supporting me, thru all the ups and downs... Your trip report is pristine, taking us away from grief to a place we both love....

Thru a lot of changes, turned a lot of pages....We will stay...

Thank You...

SKB

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## tranquilitygurl

> Applause! On my feet applause !


OMG....this trip report was not at all a trip report but a story.  Words cannot express what I felt when reading your story!    Your writing skills leave me speechless!  Thank you so much for sharing.

Keep smiling,
Tranquilitygurl

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## kaycee

Can't believe I never saw this report until a few hours ago...one of the best! I enjoyed reading it, thanks for sharing!

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## bjritz

Trip report mining, kaycee. I like to go back n find the golden nuggets of boardie wisdom.

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## walleyed99

Guirigay,  I cannot believe I missed this TA, your report reads as a gripping story where the photo's are not only a beautiful addition of an experience in paradise, through someone's Else's eyes but they are also UN-neccesary as your writing weaves such a wonderful story! I hope that my wife and I are fortunate enough to cross paths with you and Sweetie Pie on areach to paradise in the future you seem to have such a love for the Rock, much like us!!!. Your TA could be used as a roadmap to a perfect journey! Cheers mi fren!

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## kaycee

> Trip report mining, kaycee. I like to go back n find the golden nuggets of boardie wisdom.


Thanks for the advice! I definitely have to do this!

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## walleyed99

Guirigay,

    Not sure if the gal you spoke of in your TR that is helping with the spaying and neutering of animals in Jamaica is affiliated with Animal House Jamaica or not, but it too is a phenomanal organization. After reading your report I thought Sweetie Pie may also enjoy meeting more animal lovers on your next reach! Here are a cople of link's. They put on a fundraising auction every year online and through this auction I have bid on and won a one week stay at a beautiful Jamaican Condo in Point Village, and the best part of all the money goes to such a great cause!!!  :Big Grin: 

https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-A...ref=ts&fref=ts

http://www.theanimalhousejamaica.org

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