We just returned from another 2 weeks in our favorite spot with some random observations and recommendation:
The Green Flash: You hear a lot about the green flash at sunset in Negril, probably because the sunsets are so spectacular and so closely watched. I’ve always looked for it but wasn’t sure what to look for – whether the flash extended across the horizon or just around the sun. After a week of sunsets breaking through strong storm clouds and rain, we finally had an incredible Negril-style open sunset where the clouds are high in the sky and sun disappears slowly into the sea. Just before the sun disappeared, we thought we saw a green flash right on top of the sun as it sank below the horizon. Happened so fast we weren’t sure if we actually saw it or imagined it. A friend who is a professional photographer was taking pictures of the sunset with a big telephoto lens. Afterwards, he came over and showed us the “money shot”, zoomed right in on the setting sun and, sure enough, there it was….a small green halo above the fiery red. True confirmation!
The Beach: I don’t think the beach has been this wide for years. The old troubled spot near Tree House and Mariposa are wide and full. Up by Couples and Swept Away, the sandy crescent past Barry’s Bar is expansive. I love how soft the sand is in the morning after the beach has been manicured. Nothing like it in the world.
The Beach Scene: It was good to see the beach filling up for the February festivities. It’s amazing how many old timers you recognize (but never met) walking down the beach. The large number of folks who visit Negril year after year is a testament to not only the natural beauty of Negril but also to the fact that development has not destroyed that natural beauty like so many other “paradises” around the world – except, of course, Bloody Bay which is now a bloody shame.
Beach Vendors: Maybe it’s just me, or maybe it’s just February with the beach full and plenty of customers, but I thought the beach vendors, or higglers, were generally less aggressive than some days in the past. I appreciate the convenience, the hard work and the small enjoyable interactions that the regulars beach vendors provide…..never have to leave the beach for critical supplies…and there was very little of the hassle that seems to upset some visitors.
Swimming: I learned to love long distance swimming in Negril…..the warm, calm, buoyant water; the smooth sandy bottom; the lack of big fearsome fish (sharks); the colorful scene on the beach as you swim past all of the beachfront properties; the music wafting by. The only problem was watching out for those pesty, loud, dangerous jet skis. This year was exceptional with the temporary Jet Ski ban. I’m sure they will be back, and I’m sympathetic to the licensed operators who have made an investment in the equipment and need to make a living, but the regulations need to be enforced – licensed operators who can only pick up customers in designated areas and operate far out from the beach to keep things safe and peaceful.
Hotels: It’s good to see the Negril property owners putting care and love into their properties and, in most cases, maintaining and improving their buildings and gardens. I’m not sure if the beach has ever looked better. Even some of the lower cost properties across the street continue to spruce themselves up…….examples, Green Leave Cabins have put in some nice new facilities. Shamrock also had some very satisfied guests. Part of the charm is the family ownership that is the bedrock of Negril, making everyone feel at home and secure with the family looking after your well-being. Every old timer has his favorite.
Food: I always feel so healthy in Negril with all the swimming and walking, and also the food. It makes you feel good eating all the fresh natural fruits and vegetables and very little, if any, processed foods. So here are some recommendations from the last trip – and we never had a bad meal:
Best in the West: My favorite jerk place (also the closest to my hotel). This year may have taken it to a new level. More space to accommodate more people (with 3 cookers to keep things moving along), spicy sauce on the side (to allow you to dial in your own scotch bonnet heat), and best-of-all, Shadine (sp?) who works behind the circular bar. She has a smile that could melt the tundra and a voice that will stir your heart. One of the greatest dining experiences in the world is eating jerk and listening to Shadine sing along to Chronixx “They Don’t Know”. Wow……..
Chicken Lavish: As people like to say, a Negril original. Had to go back again for more of that fried chicken. Order big and take home leftovers for lunch.
Sweet Spot: This seems to be every cabbies recommendation, and for good reason. A clean, well-lighted spot with traditional Jamaican food – Oxtail stew, curried goat and (my favorite) BBQ chicken – crispy chicken with a slightly sweet BBQ sauce like Peking Duck.
Country Country: I love the location right on the beach. Menu rotates through the week. Jerk Medley and Coconut Chicken were great.
Charela/Vendome: Everything on the menu is good. They grow much of their own produce so the salads and vegetables are terrific. Roast chicken is sublime. And their grilled snapper was perfect. Also great for breakfast.
All-in-all: Negril still captivates. Everytime. It’s hard to explain to some folks why we keep returning every chance we get – but the main reason has to be the Jamaican people. I don’t know exactly what it is, but it is. Can’t wait to get back……..
Originally Posted by sabu
