Hey all - we are back home after 8 amazing nights in Negril. Came home Tuesday night and we are both missing it.
I wanted to write a few thoughts about the experience for those new and old to the board.
First - this board proved immensely helpful to us in our preparation for the trip. Anyone planning on coming down should research as much as possible before going. Knowing where things were, how to deal with transportation, money etc. made a huge difference. We were able to hit the ground running and not spazz around figuring out what we wanted to do first, next etc.
We stayed our first four nights at Catcha Gardens and the next four at Seastar. Both places were fabulous and both had their own special charms - so we stayed on the west end the entire time except when going to the beach or shopping etc.
I loved the west end. In an odd way it reminded me of living in NYC - we became part of the neighborhood and got to know the people there as they got to know us.
We elected to pass on most of the night life and use as much of the day as we could. We woke early and would walk to Out of Town Bakery for Patties then head to the beach. On Valentines day we went to Just Natural - they literally put out a red carpet for the holiday. Anyone going to the west end - Just Natural is a MUST. Jamaican breakfast is a must - I don't know where I will get Ackee and saltfish and callalloo but I have to find it up here! For $3.50 it's simply the best breakfast in the neatest setting you can ever get.
Our first sunset was at LTU. By the time we got into town and settled in, we had just enough time and energy to get there, grab a bite and watch the sunset - one of many.
Perhaps the most important thing we did was select a driver from the airport. We picked Linston and couldn't have been happier with that decision. He's one of the people in Jamaica we got to know and already miss. He wasn't just a driver - he was a friend and tour guide. I can't overemphasize how much he helped us. He gave us a cell phone and we called him for rides and advice which was always spot on. Next year when we return - he's the first contact before coming.
Our first beach was Cosmo - on Linston's advice. Perfect for the first beach day as it is as chilled out as you can get. Seems the beaches farther north are a bit flatter and wider than as you go south. No matter - the entire stretch is amazing.
We actually ended up in several places over the week as everyday was a beach day and we walked the entire length even up to Boardwalk. I bought tinted swim goggles and swam "laps" every morning so I didn't get fat on vacation - that plus all the walking
A note on the beaches and "higglers".
Before we came down, there was much discussion about vendors on the beach and elsewhere as well as discussions about safety etc. I will admit that it caused me some apprehension coming down.
That being said - I found absolutely NO problem with either. Yes there were vendors. No - there weren't too many and they weren't all over us. Actually - most were pretty cool and on the beach they were selling stuff that was fine with me. Did we get offered weed, hash, blow, oxycoton? Yeah - I wondered what kind of mobile drug store some of these guys hadBut mostly - massages and FOOD! A polite no thanks, or we're OK, or often just a shake of the head was fine and pretty much no one persisted.
Did we buy on the beach? You bet - pineapple and bananas for a snack mid day on the beach - perfect. Or the lobster mon - twice. And on this - I need to expand.
The Lobster Mon - Patrick.
First beach day - we ate breakfast on the beach - Ackee and salt fish of course. Oddly at Patrick's. Took a long time (soon come) but that's fine.
When we got back to Cosmo - shortly after Patrick, the Lobster mon came by. I had to say no - b/c we just ate and assured him that I had been looking forward to meeting him and that we would get with him next time.
Not sure if he believed us or not - but this will illustrate an important point about how I dealt with the locals.
Next day - cruising by was Patrick the Lobster Mon. We couldn't wait to get the Lobster. He didn't remember us until I brought it up. He was pleased that a tourist was not bull****ting him.
Didn't see him the next day - turns out he wasn't out that day, but the next day he was out and was walking past us without saying anything.
I called to him - by name - and THAT was important. he came over and I asked him why he wasn't calling out - he said he was going to the next place to start pitching.
He remembered us - and when I told him that I missed him yesterday and was so glad he came by today - he was very happy - even gave us a free one (3 for $15).
My point is this -I think too many people treat the locals as labor and don't take the time to be polite. I found the Jamaicans to be polite to a fault. Somewhat standoffish as well and I think it's b/c people are rude to them, or at least inconsiderate so they tend to be wary of people they don't know.
It's their country and we are guest there. When you go to someones house - you should be on your best behavior. This is how I approached my time there.
What impressed Patrick is that I went out of my way to treat him with respect and to learn and remember his NAME. A small thing perhaps, but it wasn't to him.
If I had to ask for something at a bar, hotel, restaurant - whatever, I didn't just walk up and ask "What time is it?" or whatever - I would first ask their name, introduce myself (and my wife) and ask how their day was going or the like, then I'd get around to asking what I had to.
That formal standoffishness would melt every time. Like I said - Jamaicans are a very polite and sometimes very formal people and deserving of respect and when you treat people with respect - you get it back in a big way. Often locals would say respect as a greeting or as a good bye, but I got a lot of responses from people where Respect was them saying thank you for not being a douche bag which I hate to say - I saw too much of.
Case in point- we did our first Tuesday at 3 Dives b/c there was live music - OK brief detour here - food was fabulous as was the music. Had a blast!
After we ate and were chilling by the band, I went up to get a couple beers. If you haven't been there - all food/beer/drinks come from one line with one server. Takes time - soon come
Waiting in line - a guy with an english accent (so glad he wasn't an American) was flipping on the lady behind the counter that his food wasn't there yet. Very uncomfortable for her and everyone in line. In short - he was being an ass.
He finally left her alone, but she was flustered and I felt bad for her.
Come my time to get beers, she asked me if I would dig into the cooler and get them myself. No problem mon.
I fish out 2 frosties and hand her 1,000 JA. It's 600 and she doesn't have change so asks me to come back later. I say no problem - why don't I take another and call it even. She gets an extra buck out of the deal and no one has a problem. She is happy. I'm cool - was going to tip her anyway.
Walking out - a guy (who really was a rent a rasta - was with a mid age white lady) smiles at me and gives me a fist bump and says - respect - simple thing, but chilling and being cool with a little thing like that showed respect and he saw that and wanted to acknowledge it.
Anyway - in the end - taking time to hang out and talk with people rather than just treat them like paid servants ended up being a huge part of our trip and that is why we felt like we became part of the neighborhood. It takes effort and should take effort, but is not only the right thing to do - it's SO worth it.
The chicken guy outside Catcha Gardens - we told him we would eat tomorrow - we did - 600JA for a big plate of jerk chicken.
AhhBee burger - wasn't sure about wasting time on a burger in Jamaica - I mean we get them at home right? - Nope - this was one hell of a burger.
A little more $$ but dinner at Ivan's for Valentines day - dinner with that view and a sunset? Great food and worth it.
Show at Seastar - wow.. must see.
Can't hope to capture the 8 days we spent there except to say - my wife was close to crying when we had to leave. We have traveled the world pretty extensively and I have never seen her react like that. To say we were captivated with the place and the people would be an understatement. Will we be back? Hell yes. The question is when and for how long as 8 days is not nearly enough.
Couple comments before signing off -
Talked with a Canadian about phones - seems he got Digicell plan for his iPhone. Not sure how that works - but a primer on this board about how to communicate in Jamaica - using my phone (if possible - US cells are weird) or others, app's etc would be really helpful - a pdf of how to would be great if someone knows. I don't.
WiFi at Catcha was spot on, but at Seastar it died Saturday (we got there on Friday so I can't really comment about how it was working) their internet at Seastar crapped out entirely - not Chris' fault. I am sure he called someone to fix it, but it wasn't back up before we left - soon come
A list of WiFi host spots if known would be great too - but is why the digicell conversation with the guy at Seastar would be great to figure.
Oddly - ATM at Scotia Bank by Burger King wouldn't give American $$ even though it says so. Never got that option. Wasn't a real problem since JA $ was fine and even preferable when dealing with Taxi's etc. Some bars on the beach price everything in American $ so they had to recalc - but not an issue really. ATM at Times Square spit out American $ before I left so was good to go.
Anyway - it's funny but I can sum it all up as - OK - I get it now.
Best - Ed and Denise.
