I wasn't really hooked on my first visit.

My first trip to Negril was in 2003. My sister had decided to have a small destination wedding at an AI in Negril- and I told her I wanted to stay someplace modest or even camp while I was there. She was aghast at the thought- having been convinced by travel agents that Negril was only safe if you stay on the grounds of an AI and that that I would be hacked to death in my sleep by drug crazed thieves if I did. So I gave in and went to her travel agent who booked me in an AI.

Getting off the plane and walking across the runway at Sangster, I was struck by the wave of heat and how sun bleached the local terrain was and the sweet smell of flowers (and yes jet fuel) and the sound of the trio playing "Come back to Jamaica". I knew that I would like this place.

On the bus the driver warned us Americans that they drive on the opposite side of the road as he pulled into what I thought would be a head-on collision, and I struck up a conversation with a couple who were travel agents and were comped at the same resort (I guess it was a marketing tool to promote the place) They were nice and when we got to the AI it was a confusing process -the guy at the front desk was overwhelmed by the rush of new arrivals. They were savvy enough to request rum punches while we waited- the first of dozens consumed on the trip. When I checked in the couple looked at me and said "ooh you got a suite" I hadn't paid for one and wasn't sure what they meant. But sure enough I was escorted to a 2 room suite overlooking the ocean. I ran into that couple, who had a small room right next to me, several times. And every time I saw them they were complaining about something in their room - the ac not working or the bed being lumpy or something. I'm sure that they didn't recommend this place to too many of their clients. I on the other hand was happy staying in the nicest room I had ever paid for myself. It wasn't until much later after the Negril-induced fog lifted from my mind that I realized, in the confusion at check in, there must have been a mix up in the rooms- I got theirs and they got mine.

Anyway the wedding was great and I had a great time doing the AI things- eating buffet food, drinking in the tiki bar, hot tubbing, swim up bar etc... But something was missing- that real Jamaican experience. When I tried to walk off the property, I was met with subtle discouragement from the security guard who asked me to sign out, when I asked where to go off premises I was steered to Ricks etc....

All in all nice place but definitely not a habit forming experience. I sensed that something was missing. So 18 months later, I took a leave from work after being burnt out from a stressful job and I thought about going back. I found the Negril Yoga centre in Froemmers and it seemed perfect for me. I found the vibe that so many on this site have experienced from the minute Joseph the driver picked me up and brought me to to the beautiful garden spot. I wandered across the street to the (then) Coral Seas (then it became sunset on the beach and I think it may recently have changed names again) and to a little shack next door run by Robbie (since closed) where I could watch the world go by while listening to an endless loop of "Waiting in Vain" with a cold Red Stripe and chat with the locals.

I knew it was what I was looking for. My ideal vacation is one where you get up and do as little as possible, and yet still manage to meet wonderful people and have memorable moments which sometimes morph into stupid (and funny) antics and escapades. I've gone back every year since, sometimes alone and sometimes with my sons and/or friends and am looking forward to being on that same stretch of sand 6 month from today for a week long solo trip.

PS I'm not dissing AI's - everyone has different taste. But I would urge folks staying at a big resort to explore beyond the property to get a better sense of the island. As for safety I always tell people that they can get in trouble looking for coke and hookers at 2 a.m. in their home town just as easily as in Negril- being smart and safe reduces ( but doesn't completely eliminate) risk at home or on vacation...