March 2018 - In Love With the People

[mbrennan5]

During the research process, I kept seeing this Captain Dave character chiming in, especially about rides. I liked that he always shouted out all the drivers and that he seemed to really enjoy helping people. I figured that was a good omen to booking our ride to Negril with Linston. That instinct ended up being one of the best decisions of the whole trip.

We arrived at the “yellow barrier” that Linston had designated as our meeting spot right on time. I was feeling slightly stressed as we waited. Although we had corresponded about our pending travel changes, I never heard back after sending the new flight info. I was eyeing every driver in a Nissan when Linston called and said he was 20 minutes behind. Okay no worries. Linston arrived and we hopped out into the middle lane of traffic. He helped us throw our backpacks in the trunk and off we went.

I gave my wife the front seat and I sat in the back. As we made our way through Montego Bay we began discussing pleasantries with Linston. Our conversation drifted towards shared hobbies and passions and the back and forth felt like it was with an old friend. I started to ask questions about Negril. As we discussed the town and Linston would start to talk about a place, I would share what I knew. He said he was impressed and that felt amazing to hear!

Almost on queue as my stomach started to growl, Linston asked if we were hungry. He says this is different than any of the jerk style we’ll taste in Negril, but it’s the best. At this point I’m feeling so in sync with him, and he’s telling me this is the place to get jerk. Ya mon! Of course we’re down with this!

Bigga’s turned out to be outstanding. All three of us dove into the conch soup and chicken while Bigga’s wife sat in front of us on her stool. Her patois is so thick I really had to focus on what she was saying. The vibe was super friendly. A few local kids stopped by the counter side of the hut and enjoyed their chicken. I’m not big on spicy foods. Bigga’s sauce is served on the side, but I overserved myself due to the amazingly rich flavor. The breeze blowing off the bay in Green Island cooled my sweaty brow. Linston mentioned out loud how hot it was. I came clean that I agreed but hadn’t wanted to out myself. My lady went into the house to use the bathroom while I grabbed a couple waters and settled up the bill. Three lunches only totaled 2700J. We washed our hands under the spigot and moved on.

Once we were back on the road I mentioned to Linston that we wanted to grab some beer and liquor for our room. He proceeded to explain the options. Want more variety and higher end beer, go to the Hi-Lo. Okay with the basics and want to save money, go to the Chinaman store. We just wanted some Red Stripe and rum so the Chinaman store was perfect. Driving down the Beach Road is exciting yet anticlimactic. You know that stunning beach is right there, but you barely grab a glance here and there. Linston and I compared notes on establishments as we drove by and I tried to make mental notes to the distances knowing that the Negril establishment map isn’t to scale.

I can see how it’s easy for a tourist to be intimidated in an environment like this. It’s a corner store with locals hanging out both outside and in. After some assistance in finding cold 6 packs I allowed a kid to help me carry it to the counter. I wasn’t sure if he was trying for a tip, but I just engaged him in conversation while we waited at the register. He asked what the liquid was and when I told him beer he was not appetized. We fended off a beggar between the counter and car and finally we were on the home stretch to the West End, which we had never seen by land.

I noticed Canoe as we drove by, but didn’t get too many other visual landmarks until we passed Blue Cave Castle and then approached Samsara. As the road wound up into the heart of the cliffs I could sense the vibe change. More people walking along the sides of the road. Thicker foliage. Linston told us that Sips N’ Bites is his spot. He also pointed out one of his buddy’s spot across the street that has a yard on the cliff side to chill in. As we approached Tensing Pen, Linston mentioned that he’d love to have us over to his home during our stay. We were both taken back and I think we both instantly decided it was something we’d make happen.