March 2018 - In Love With the People

[mbrennan5]

Hey all! My wife and I recently returned from a soul filling journey to Negril. Much of what made it special I attribute to the amount of info you all lovingly share on here. I plan to contribute more to the forum, and wanted to start by sharing more details on the awesome that was "March 2018 - In Love With the People"

A little background on us… we visited Negril for our honeymoon in August of 2011 and stayed at Swept Away for 10 nights. While we absolutely loved our experience, we were aware that we let sand gravity take over as we recuperated from wedding planning. The only thing we did outside of CSA was their catamaran cruise. One morning we walked North on the beach to the end of the park, and one afternoon we walked south to Margaritaville. We knew one day we'd be back and we'd get to see more then.

This past summer we spent 2 weeks traveling to London, all over Belgium, and to Amsterdam. Having gained the confidence of planning (and IMO really rocking out) a journey like that, there was no question that I wanted to shape this next Caribbean excursion differently. We've hemmed and hawed the past couple years about booking a cruise to get a taste of a few different places, and I also began looking into Roatan, Honduras and Grand Case, Saint Martin as alternatives to Negril. At the end of the day I recalled the warm smiles and laid back vibe in JA. So Negril became the focus.

I learned from the Europe trip that doing some homework up front paid huge dividends in our overall experience. Of course it makes sense to know the right times to visit tourist attractions, but I also found knowing the general lay of the land, and having ideas of some off the beaten path experiences and local food joints really added to our confidence. We were able to let our guards down a little more and I think locals can sense that.

This is where all of you come in! I wanted to dig into Negril and this forum surely gave me my fill. I went into the trip with only a couple things on my to-do list, but having that head full of knowledge paid off in a myriad of ways. I can’t thank all of you enough for sharing about your experiences in our little slice of heaven known as Negril!



I didn't end up bringing these notes. I have enough tidbits in my head to guide me if needed.

[mbrennan5]

I had read about doing split stays a few years ago and the lack of vendors in the West End intrigued me. I recalled our walk to Margaritaville in 2011 where I made the mistake of allowing a vendor to put a bud in my hand. The exchange ended with me counting to 3 warning that I would drop his beautiful green into the ocean. He finally took it back, but I was annoyed.
I wasn’t sure if we’d miss the beach, or how we’d like swimming in the cliffs, so a hotel with a pool was high on the list. We also weren’t sure if we could live without A/C so that was added to the list. Our price range precluded the really high end places, and frankly, the lower price ranges is part of what attracted us back to Negril. After CSA we knew we could experience Negril for a fraction of the cost. I just wasn’t sure how low we’d be comfortable going. After a bunch of reading on here it seemed like you couldn’t go wrong at Catcha Falling Star or Tensing Pen. (On another note, many people make it out to be these two places to be more similar properties than they actually are. I’ll touch more on that when we visit Ivan’s). I mapped out the dates that the cheaper rooms at both were available. We chose the Garden Cabin at Tensing Pen over the Pisces room at Catcha.

Turning to the beach planning, I loved the looks of places like Idle Awhile (of course visually with the CSA influence) and Country Country, but the prices seemed on the higher side. I did a lot of reading about places like Coco La Palm, Negril Treehouse and Rondel Village. After looking at Legends the idea of semi or all-inclusive came up. There seemed to be a lot more food options on the cliffs and maybe by the end of the trip we’d like the laziness of all-inclusive. I had read good things about Grand Pineapple as a good A/I option that didn’t break the bank, and when it aligned with our West End options I booked it.

I convinced my wife that she could fit everything in her Osprey Farpoint 40 backpack so that we wouldn’t have to check bags. Carrying a backpack instead of dragging along a suitcase changes the feel of travel for me. I’m on the move, ready for adventure! I don’t require so many objects that I need a box with wheels to bring it all with me! As we’d later learn, apparently others view travelers this way as well.

The night before we planned to leave United canceled our flight from Newark to MBJ due to an incoming Nor’Easter. The weather showed we would beat the storm out of the city, but United was being proactive. I was training a new hire at work while simultanuosly texting with my wife as she sat on hold with United and found an alternative flight on Air Canada through Toronto. After a few hours of nail biting, we were able secure vouchers in place of the outbound flights and booked one-ways on Air Canada. Depart 15 minutes later, arrive same time. Deal!

[Maralunatic]

Jamaica just kind of reels you in doesn't it? Always something for every taste...

[Miss Honey]

its funny. for so many yrs I vacationed in South Carolina and bigger was better or so I thought. now in negril I only want simple. love the cliffs.

[LivinInThe603]

I love your writing... easy reading and relatable... can't wait to hear more as I do my last minute preps for Saturday's take off! Cheers!

[mbrennan5]

During the research process, I kept seeing this Captain Dave character chiming in, especially about rides. I liked that he always shouted out all the drivers and that he seemed to really enjoy helping people. I figured that was a good omen to booking our ride to Negril with Linston. That instinct ended up being one of the best decisions of the whole trip.

We arrived at the “yellow barrier” that Linston had designated as our meeting spot right on time. I was feeling slightly stressed as we waited. Although we had corresponded about our pending travel changes, I never heard back after sending the new flight info. I was eyeing every driver in a Nissan when Linston called and said he was 20 minutes behind. Okay no worries. Linston arrived and we hopped out into the middle lane of traffic. He helped us throw our backpacks in the trunk and off we went.

I gave my wife the front seat and I sat in the back. As we made our way through Montego Bay we began discussing pleasantries with Linston. Our conversation drifted towards shared hobbies and passions and the back and forth felt like it was with an old friend. I started to ask questions about Negril. As we discussed the town and Linston would start to talk about a place, I would share what I knew. He said he was impressed and that felt amazing to hear!

Almost on queue as my stomach started to growl, Linston asked if we were hungry. He says this is different than any of the jerk style we’ll taste in Negril, but it’s the best. At this point I’m feeling so in sync with him, and he’s telling me this is the place to get jerk. Ya mon! Of course we’re down with this!

Bigga’s turned out to be outstanding. All three of us dove into the conch soup and chicken while Bigga’s wife sat in front of us on her stool. Her patois is so thick I really had to focus on what she was saying. The vibe was super friendly. A few local kids stopped by the counter side of the hut and enjoyed their chicken. I’m not big on spicy foods. Bigga’s sauce is served on the side, but I overserved myself due to the amazingly rich flavor. The breeze blowing off the bay in Green Island cooled my sweaty brow. Linston mentioned out loud how hot it was. I came clean that I agreed but hadn’t wanted to out myself. My lady went into the house to use the bathroom while I grabbed a couple waters and settled up the bill. Three lunches only totaled 2700J. We washed our hands under the spigot and moved on.

Once we were back on the road I mentioned to Linston that we wanted to grab some beer and liquor for our room. He proceeded to explain the options. Want more variety and higher end beer, go to the Hi-Lo. Okay with the basics and want to save money, go to the Chinaman store. We just wanted some Red Stripe and rum so the Chinaman store was perfect. Driving down the Beach Road is exciting yet anticlimactic. You know that stunning beach is right there, but you barely grab a glance here and there. Linston and I compared notes on establishments as we drove by and I tried to make mental notes to the distances knowing that the Negril establishment map isn’t to scale.

I can see how it’s easy for a tourist to be intimidated in an environment like this. It’s a corner store with locals hanging out both outside and in. After some assistance in finding cold 6 packs I allowed a kid to help me carry it to the counter. I wasn’t sure if he was trying for a tip, but I just engaged him in conversation while we waited at the register. He asked what the liquid was and when I told him beer he was not appetized. We fended off a beggar between the counter and car and finally we were on the home stretch to the West End, which we had never seen by land.

I noticed Canoe as we drove by, but didn’t get too many other visual landmarks until we passed Blue Cave Castle and then approached Samsara. As the road wound up into the heart of the cliffs I could sense the vibe change. More people walking along the sides of the road. Thicker foliage. Linston told us that Sips N’ Bites is his spot. He also pointed out one of his buddy’s spot across the street that has a yard on the cliff side to chill in. As we approached Tensing Pen, Linston mentioned that he’d love to have us over to his home during our stay. We were both taken back and I think we both instantly decided it was something we’d make happen.

[rocknrollfarmer]

I quickly read thru your reports.....very insightful... thanks for sharing.

[skolyy]

Great write Up, love the way you mix in the good with the not so good, keeping it real, feels like I am there.

[beachballler]

Great start ....I think many us of feel your passion and all continue on our own "learning curve."

[Cd1523]

What a great TR. Your writing and the detail provided really makes me feel like I am there. I could almost taste the jerk.