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Thread: Paradox in Paradise

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    We get to Rockhouse and Johnny and Amber are quite pleased. They take a quick look around and decide this is the spot. We point out some things from our dinner last night. They make reservations for tomorrow night, the sunset seating at the Rock Table. “Would you like a complimentary shuttle?” they’re asked. “Yes.” “We’ll be there at 4:45” “Exactly,” I say with a smile.

    The primary mission is complete. What to do now? We decide that we should have something to eat. It’s a really good idea at this point. “So if you’re gonna eat here tomorrow night, we could stop back in at Xtabi for a bite tonight and you will get them both.” “We can go down and see if anyone’s still at Pee Wees afterward” It’s so easy to come up with genius plans under these sorts of conditions…

    When we get back to Xtabi we get a hearty welcome from the bartender and another round of drinks. We decide to catch a sea view before sitting down to dinner. As we’re standing in a circle by the beach cave steps I tell Johnny and Amber about our conch burgers yesterday. I think I am pretty descriptive. Suddenly we notice a gentleman leaning against the railing by the kitchen door slowly sipping a coffee cup. He’s got his kitchen linens on but he is all kinds of laid back and cool as he sort of boulevards the rail and post. “Enjoying the night?” he asks. We talk for a bit. “You’re not drinking coffee are you?” asks Sweetie Pie. “No,” he replies. “Is that soup?” “All day long,” he answers with a smile.

    “I was telling them about the conch burgers here,” I say. “Yah, mon, I make the conch burgers,” says Conch God. Now I’m flying reconnaissance spy missions at the moment but that does not affect the fact that every word I’m about to speak is the unadulterated truth, and Conch God knows it. “You make one of the greatest things on earth, mon!” He smiles, takes a sip of his soup then lifts his cup to me, “Respect, mon!” We talk conch. He will tell me NOTHING about how he makes it.

    “It’s too bad you only make them for lunch,” I say. He thinks for a moment and says, “I can make you conch burgers.” “Really?” “Yah, mon, just go up front and tell them Conch God sent you.” We do this and are promptly escorted out to the table on the point. “The best table in the house,” I say. “Yah, mon, of course,” says our waiter. We sit Johnny and Amber at the best seats, looking back on the resort and down the cliffs at the softly lit cottages clinging to the edge.

    When we order the waiter says, “We don’t serve conch burgers at dinner.” “Conch God said he would make them for us,” we answer. “Well let me see.” He returns in a short while and says, “We can make conch burgers for you!” We order three and a filet mignon. Nothing I say has convinced Johnny that he will enjoy a mouthful of sea snails. When Johnny’s soup shows up it is followed by soup for everyone else. “But we didn’t order these,” we say. “Compliments of the chef,” we are told. I could eat it all day long.
    What's so funny 'bout Peace, Love and Understanding?

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    Really great read man. I try to get to Xtabi every night while in town as the place is just super chill. As far as Debbie Lightheart, do you have contact info for her and also do you know if she is there full time? We just missed another group who is coming into Ochi right after our next reach in April, and Sandie would love to volunteer her time doing some spays and neuters in Negril.


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    Very cool Guirigay, it was nice hangin with you guys.

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    wow, I just loved reading this! Thank you so much for sharing your experiences.

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    "My biggest frustrations on this trip have to do with getting money and getting money exchanged. The banking and financial services systems in Jamaica ARE antiquated and do seem to run at cross purposes sometimes. The money exchange is its own issue worthy of much discussion. I want to be clear, though, that me ending up in the bowels of a Jamaican bank flush mostly comes down to me not being prepared appropriately. Be prepared, or else…"

    I hear ya. Between ATMS and bank lines, I lost half a day last trip...I blame myself, too. Cash is king.

    Love your report. So many feelings you write about are commonly shared by many, and eloquently played out in your writing style, love this Trip Report. You are really nailing it...you are a really good writer. Of course my opinion is worth less than 50J...


    The partying vs poverty contrast? Amazing.

    You set the bar high bro!
    Last edited by brasi; 02-29-2012 at 08:30 AM.

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    I agree with the cash issue...I never remember it being a big deal before but this last trip it seemed like I was always having to go to the ATM. I got lucky and the Scotia Bank at the round about was always working but it is still kind of inconvenient. Next time I'm bringing plenty of cash and exchanging it at the Cambio first thing! I was cracking up at the bank fiasco...it is SO true!
    "Don't gain the world and lose your soul, wisdom is better than silver and gold" R.N.M

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    Guirigay – Wow! This is hands down one of the best trip reports I've ever read!I devoured it during my lunchbreak today. I couldn't stop reading and I was late returning to the office!! I was completely sucked in and felt like I was experiencing Jamaica vicariously through your words. I loved all the details you shared, all the dialogues, observations, every moment described perfectly and your words are beautiful. The love you and Sweetiepie share really shines through your prose. She's a lucky lady and you're a lucky man.

    I can't wait to read more. Please keep it coming!! I'm really looking forward to your next installment.
    Carpe Diem

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    Thanks for all the positive feedback everyone, I really appreciate it.

    Booger - I'm not done yet with Xtabi, it draws me like a magnet I believe Debbie lives in Negril full-time. I have contact info but there is a little bit left to that story. When are you guys going again? I can PM you the contact info if you would like it in the next couple of days. Is Sandie a vet? That would be super helpful. Neutering can be handled by less qualified individuals but spaying really requires a fully trained vet. Sandie will make Sweetie Pie very happy.

    AimBri - I'm not kidding, those pictures take me RIGHT BACK. What a great time. And the parrot, invisible in the real world, right? Please tell me you had a hard time seeing it too

    negrilaholic - You are very welcome. It makes me happy to know that you find it of value. I am enjoying this experience from a lot of different avenues. So again we visit paradox. Can one thing be both altruistic and selfish at the same time? Is it really sharing if I see so many advantages for myself? Hmmm.... Okay, slap me! Just freakin' slap me!!

    Brasi - Thank you. I think I have a 50 left from the last K note I dropped, it's all yours.

    RastaGal - Your last trip report was one of the first things I read here when I started prepping for the trip. I liked it! Thanks for planting the seed.

    Clarity - and hopefully Hubby-Man and Jamiroquai - So glad to see you back! Your semi-spiritual recounting of Mayfield Falls was a big factor in the decision to go there on our road trip. No matter how much you read or how many pictures you see, though...

    I'm not sure how quick the next installment will be out. I've been working it in my head but haven't written anything yet. It was an incredible day. There's a lot I want to say and I want to give it my best.

    Peace and Understanding
    What's so funny 'bout Peace, Love and Understanding?

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    Guirigay... I didn't see a thing buddy... good times for sure.

  10. #10
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    Thursday

    With surprisingly little effort we are up this morning and out to our sunrise spot. It is a gorgeous morning and a beautiful sunrise, a long series of changing beams of light and slowly shifting colors.

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    We turn around and look out to sea; the moon is much higher on the horizon today as its cycle begins to wane.

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    It stands as tangible evidence of our ride on this orbiting rock, hurtling through the infinite expanse of the celestial. It highlights for me one of the central paradoxes of a conscious existence – I am but a speck in this universe but I am always everything. I and I. Today it’s I and I and Sweetie Pie. I am glad that I stand here with her in my arms.

    We head down for Tai Chi on the cliffs again this morning then off to Easy Rock for coffee. Biscuit treats are distributed and Scar joins us for his daily jaunt, waiting outside again. Max and Sweetie Pie greet each other like old friends. She orders an orange juice after we get our first cup, she needs vitamins and hydration. Max says OK and pulls out a big basket of oranges! “Just a couple of minutes,” he says. We wander and drink and when we come back there is a very tall glass of fresh squeezed orange juice. Did I mention how sweet Jamaican oranges are? Juiced, they are out of this world! Sweetie Pie, who is physically incapable of gulping, finishes it very quickly. I think she is worried about me gulping it. Her fears are well founded.

    Having managed to shuffle some dollars this morning with Charlie’s assistance (Sorry Max, I won’t access financial accounts from ANY kiosk or café) we head into town confident we can get a much needed infusion of capital. We go into the shopping center where I’ve been told numerous times there is an ATM out front. We walk around and still can’t find it. I ask a shopkeeper setting up for the day and they say “Yah, mon, just out front.” We start walking back toward the road. No, mon, out front,” says the shopkeeper and he points to a walkway that heads AWAY from the road. We walk back and it opens onto a large parking lot and there on the left, boom, the ATM. Then I look over and, BAM, there’s the Hi Lo!! Damn, we’ve been looking for that place all week! I have to laugh. Out front? Out back? There IS a big parking lot back there A brief wait puts some cash back in our pockets and we’re under way.

    As we are headed back I see a young boy, I’d say somewhere between 7 and 9, milling around by the road and an older man back off the road a ways kind of picking his fingers. The kid sees us, shoots a look at the old man and does a little pull together, only sort of in reverse. He starts a bit of a mopey shuffle toward us. I look at the kid for a moment and then stare at the old man. Just before the kid is to us and starts to open his mouth the old man says something I don’t quite catch and the kid peels off.

    I am angry, disgusted and sad. I remember GerryG talking about how frustrated he was with people teaching young children to beg. I think my awareness of that probably short circuits the pinch here but not until we see the full mechanics play out. What to do? I want to help this child, things are obviously difficult for him but I’m pretty damn sure giving him anything in this situation will not be beneficial. What I really want to do is go punch Fagin in the mouth. Small failure on the peace and understanding front. Not a single word passes between any of us. Sweetie Pie doesn’t really pick up on all of this but a little ways up the road she says, “Sweetie, you’re making your face…”
    What's so funny 'bout Peace, Love and Understanding?

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