Paradox in Paradise

[Guirigay]

Irie - that is SO funny. I should have done my fact checking on the spelling BUT... We were both pretty looped but I just talked to Sweetie Pie to confirm this point. We went round and round on the spelling of the name 'cause I was popped and knew she was too and I didn't want to forget. F-R-O-N-T-I-A I repeated a couple of times after she said I had it wrong with just an I. Freakin' drunks in Negril, ha ha. Thanks for the hook up Yes, Michael Franti...

[lisapat]

usually can find as Michael Franti and Spearhead..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TPw8MQXjDDM one of my favs

[marley9808]

Michael Franti is amazing! Such a great guy.
If you like his music you absolutely MUST check him out in concert, he is amazing.

And if he ever comes to your town for a show, be sure to go down to the venue some time during the day before the show....he likes to stand outside barefoot with his guitar and play a set on the street for free hours before the concert....He is awesome!!!
One of my faves too

[Clarity]

Beautiful! So glad you and Sweetie pie enjoyed Mayfield falls. Your pics are so great!
You both look so happy!
Swimming under those rocks with rushing current is so invigorating isn't it?!
Looking forward to your next update!

[TizzyATX]

Guiri....you're report is A-MA-Ziiiiing!!! Lovely photos of you and your lady, and you can sense the magic between you two. I'm not much of a romantic but damn you had me a couple times. lol

Got some crazy vocab too. Wish I could write like that....

[SweetSue]

Beautiful. I enjoyed every entry. Thank you for sharing this!

[Guirigay]

Saturday

We awake this morning with the undesirable Jamaican dreads, the last day variety. We look out to our sunrise spot for the last time.



We head up and are greeted by an astonishing view. The sea is like glass this morning and the reflections of the pre-dawn clouds are mesmerizing. It offers a moment to ponder the value of looking backward, “What a great week we’ve had, Sweetie.” “The greatest week I’ve ever had,” says Sweetie Pie. “Yet!” pipes in the Evil Dr. Yes. The quality of the light in general this morning is spectacular as we are cloud covered on the coast but when you look to the east it appears to be mostly just a morning humidity haze. The Reliables walk by on the West End road. Every morning this week, just a minute or two before the sun rises, the Reliables have walked by with their dog. Waves became hello’s that turned into pleasantries. Today it’s “Goodbye” and “Safe Travels”. We snap some pics of the views and head down for Tai Chi.



I grab a pic of Sweetie Pie on our favorite terrace and then we do our repititions. We take a few shots after to remind us of this supremely serene practice spot.



We sit on the cliff for a few minutes talking about what we’d like to do this morning. Gotta get a last swim in so we run up and jump into our suits and into the sea we go. I know we spent a little while swimming but it seems like we’re out in seconds. Last swims are great. Last swims suck.

[Guirigay]

After a quick shower we’re heading out when we run into Robert and Carol. We’ve really enjoyed their company this week and we have a nice chat. We’re heading back to the ATM one more time to get settling cash and Robert, who has had a car all week unbeknownst to us, offers a ride. Now we’ve known that Robert has a little problem hearing but I think he’s pretty close to deaf in his left ear because I say three or four times on the way down that we’ll turn in just past the Commerce Bank without any response from him. When we get there we just roll right on by. Sweetie Pie and I just look at each other. Finally, when we near the roundabout Robert looks over and says “Where to?” We smile, “Well, back there.” Robert is too kind, and shortly we’re at the bank. “Would you like me to wait?” he asks but we’ve got coffee and breakfast plans. What a great guy.

We are the only ones at the ATM this morning and its door is ajar. We don’t think anything of this and close it when we step in. We’ve figured out what we need to settle and tip and quickly get what we need. When we turn to leave the door won’t open! We spend a good minute or so trying to figure out what the hell is going on, how do you get locked IN an ATM! A Jamaican walking into the shopping center sees us flailing about and comes up to the door. “There’s a button somewhere up near here,” he says pointing on the door frame. There it is, a little doorbell ringer like button! We walk out and have the best laugh with our liberator.

We walk up the road one last time. It is an absolutely perfect morning and as we’re walking we talk about what an incredible environment this place is for a photographer. We grab a couple of shots that are just too easy.



When we walk into Easy Rock Max isn’t there. An older lady at the bar says he is next door at the bar. We walk down to the bar next to the coffee shack and before we even get inside we know what’s going on, you can hear the TV and the boys chattering. “Match today, Sweetie,” I say. Little did I know. Max is transfixed on the screen when we come in, even after we call out. A couple of his buddies nudge him and he responds. “Oh, Hey!,” he says, “How ya doing! Man U is on this morning! Let me get my stuff, I’ll go make you some coffee.” He starts to pull his things together on the bar. I look at the TV and it’s not just Manchester United playing, it’s Manchester vs. Liverpool! In soccer this is like Yankees-Dodgers, Cowboys-Steelers, Lakers-Celtics. There is no way we’re letting Max make us coffee. “No problem, brudda, we’re not taking YOU away from THIS game to make us coffee. We just wanted to come and say goodbye and…” I put some money on the bar, “say thanks, mon, it’s been a great week.” Sweetie Pie walks up and gives Max a big hug. They have a true moment and pass a few words of future friendship. Max comes and gives me a hug and then meets my eyes, “She’s very special, mon,” and he shakes his head. All I can do is nod and smile. I’m a little misty now thinking about it. Good man, Max, we’ll see you soon.

[Guirigay]

We head across the road to Mi Yard. We had been planning on having breakfast here after Max’s coffee but now we’ll have both. I don’t know their names but the older guy who had served appetizers on the pub crawl and his wife are working. Very nice people. We order Ackee and Saltfish and I ask if I can get a plate of Saltfish and Dumplings. “A plate of JUST dumplings?” He asks. “Yeah, I love them,” I say and he has a conversation with his wife I don’t catch all of except he mentions having served them on the Pub Crawl in a sort of “See, I told you” kind of way. “I think serving the appetizers on the Pub Crawl is a great idea,” I say, “Bet you get some business out of that.” “Yah, mon, I think it’s a good idea,” and he shoots his wife a smile. We get coffees and a small rum cream and chill out to the porch.

There are a group of people on the boat beach across the road talking and milling about. I’m caught by the scene unfolding through the Mi Yard entrance and go to grab a shot. What I would have given for a lense with a deep field of focus.



The food arrives and is delicious. The Ackee and Saltfish is particularly good and we say so. “We’re known as the home of Ackee and Saltfish in Negril,” say Mr. Yard. I can tell you it’s REALLY good. The dumplings are excellent and just before I finish them off Sweetie Pie tears off a chunk and sets it aside. “Scar?” I ask and get a smile and nod. Sweetie Pie has had all the coffee she wants and there is still a big pour of rum cream left. I fill the cup and go in to see Mr. Yard. The cup is about three quarters full of rum cream. “Just a splash to cut the rum cream, please.” Mr. Yard makes the quickest tip of the pot possible and a few drops find their way into my cup. “Perfect,” I say and we both smile as the pot goes back on the burner.

We sit on the porch for a while, neither one of us wants to leave. Everything from this point forward will be part of the inevitable march that leads us away from our place. A check on the laundry list for departure, a roll of the parchment that has been our tale. A fitting spot for the last picture in Negril, hanging on the porch of Mi Yard…



We run into Scar on the way back to Home Sweet Home and he gets a little bite of dumpling. “I wish I could hug you, little fella,” says Sweetie Pie, “Good luck.” We wonder if we’ll ever see him again. The life of Jamaican street dogs is very short.

[Guirigay]

Back at the hotel we head up to the room for the last time. We pack trying to account for the need to grab extra layers of clothing before we grab the shuttle to our car tonight. We’re supposed to meet Coolbook and HH for an Academy Award Short Film Festival after party in Detroit tonight so we’re trying to figure out how we’ll look decent as well as semi-warm. Even with those concerns significantly less effort goes into stuffing the bags than did just over a week ago. Toss it, smush it, close it.

We haul the bags down to reception and say our farewells to Charlie and the staff and make sure everyone who has been a part of our wonderful week gets a little something. We head down to the cliffs for the last time and take a moment to soak it in. What a beautiful place, what lovely people, what a great week.

As we come up to the hotel Chris is there waiting. We load up and are on our way. The ride down our daily walk brings conflicting emotions of so many pleasant memories and disheartening pangs of departure. Chris is such a good nature guy, though, that you can’t be down for too long. He has us talking about our trip and future plans in no time. We are talking about the amazing colors in Negril and the great paint jobs so many places do on their buildings.”I want you to tell me what you think of these buildings coming up,” says Chris. We have fun disparaging the color schemes of the RIU’s, we’re going to see if we can find a more abhorrent color on any building between here and Mo Bay. We don’t.

“We haven’t had a Jelli Coconut all week,” I say, “If you see any on the way can we stop?” “I know a place,” says Chris. Somewhere around Orange Bay or Green Island we see lights being strung up between a few roadside bars and a number of people busy pulling things together. “Gonna be a Jump Up here tonight?” I ask Chris. “Yah, mon, you know it!” “Gonna be the place to be tonight, eh?” “Yah, mon, exactly!” Sweetie Pie doesn’t know what a Jump Up is. I explain that it’s a big street party mostly attended by locals but it wouldn’t be unusual to see a few tourists there. “It’s a real Jamaican party,” I say. “That’s what we need to do next time!” says Sweetie Pie. “Yah, mon, there’s one just about every week someplace,” says Chris, “I know where they’ll be, I can take you next time.” Hook up!!