Catcha is my magic place and the final knock out punch I take newbies to to completely spring them on Jamaica
Catcha is my magic place and the final knock out punch I take newbies to to completely spring them on Jamaica
What separates a perfect day from a just really fantastic day? In this case, the differences were pretty minor. I spent half an hour figuring out what to do when Sunshine's Kobo completely froze up – thank goodness for the guest computer at Catcha. A little later I was walking out to the cliffs with my bag when I suddenly felt a cool trickle down my leg. My chug jug has opened in my bag and soaked everything. Thankfully there wasn't much in it and it was only water, but perfect days don't include pulling your smart phone out of a puddle in the bottom of your bag.
When Ivan's opened to the world at 5pm, it filled up pretty quickly. There was a group of a dozen or so who had come from Hedo and they were a lively bunch. One couple pulled away from the group and as he led his girlfriend to the loungers across from us, the fellow kind of blurted out to me, "Beautiful place isn't it?"
Next thing we know he is down on one knee, with a ring box in hand. We had front row seats. She seemed genuinely surprised and totally thrilled. It caused a great deal of celebration amongst the group and that kind of energy is infectious. Apparently commitment was in the air, as the Night of a 100 Candles also included a proposal that evening, though we only heard about it after the fact. If popping the question is on your to do list, do consider Catcha as the venue.
Sunset was another absolute winner. We were on a real streak.
Dinner was Ivan's again, but that was certainly no hardship. For a change we were on the opposite side of the restaurant that night, seated right along the cliffs. We were in fact perched right above where we had been giggling like fools the night before. That linguine was so good I was really tempted to have it again, but opted for the pineapple snapper instead. I like that the pineapple sauce has a bit more heat than I'd expect so it isn't too sweet. It was a good choice. Sunshine had the pineapple chicken again; he'd found something that tasted good and agreed with his system and he wasn't deviating.
As we wandered into Ivan's to settle our bar tab and get some ice, we ran into Rob and Lisa having a later dinner in the bar, along with another boardie from Thunder Bay, which is kind of in our neck of the woods. We stood around and chatted for about 15 minutes until their meal arrived. We settled up and headed back for a little private time.
Sunshine has a travel cribbage board he has been carting around on trips since somewhere near age seven. We ended the night on our patio playing cards and enjoying the sounds of the comings and goings on the road. If you play cribbage, his hand should tell you everything you need to know about how my game was going. I will be demanding a rematch this time around.
Tomorrow we'd be moving down to the beach, but we had miles to cover before we'd start our adventures there.
Chapter 9
“Everybody needs beauty as well as bread, places to play in and pray in, where nature may heal and give strength to body and soul.”
― John Muir
Sunshine had been pretty adamant on our first trip that we stick to doing not much of anything at all. Having extended this trip to ten days, he agreed that I could claim one of those extra days for an excursion.
Since there is technically a three hour span of homelessness when you are changing hotels, I thought moving day would be the right day for us to explore a little further afield. Besides, since our move was only really 8km, I thought would could trick ourselves into feeling like we had actually moved some distance by taking a very indirect route.
Having heard about a lot of great excursions on the board, it wasn't easy to decide what we wanted to do. I wanted to get back into hills and Sunshine didn't want the drive to be too long. It would just be the two of us, so we also wanted to choose something suited to that. Pelican Bar looks great, but it seems like the kind of place best enjoyed with a bit bigger group. We settled on the Mayfield Falls river walk and had made arrangements with Kingsley for the trip.
Breakfast at Catcha did not disappoint. Really, nothing at Catcha had been disappointing. The only let down was leaving. With checking out came the moment of truth; it was finally time to add up all those tabs at the bar and restaurant we'd been so carefully ignoring. I have to admit that I was pretty pleasantly surprised. I believe by West End standards, Catcha is in the more expense half, but I think it provides tremendous value.
Kinsgley's timing was perfect as he was pulling in just as we were finishing up. He explained that his other driver Robert would actually be taking us to Mayfield Falls as he also had a number of airport runs booked that day. He was going to take us down to Xtabi to connect with Robert. I was a bit surprised, but given Kingsley's reputation, I didn't think he would pass us off to some fool.
In hindsight, I think I threw Kingsley's plans off a bit as I hadn't mentioned in our emails that we'd have our luggage with us. I don't know what vehicle we were supposed to be in, but I don't think it was supposed to be Kingsley's van. I am deducing this mostly by body language and actions at the hand off at Xtabi, because I sure didn't understand what either of them was saying to the other. I have no idea what Kingsley would be driving that day, but as we set off into the hills, Robert was driving us in Kingsley's van.
I was riding shotgun. Robert proved to be an able driver. Though I am not the best judge as I am not easily frightened by aggressive driving, I only had one holy crap moment, which I think for a couple hours on the Jamaican roads is pretty good.
I was again doing my best bobble head imitation. Robert explained the cane fields and wagons as we passed them by. I was fascinated by the moss that grows on everything, including the power and phone lines. Kingsley called Robert often to see how we were making out. I think on one or two calls, he might have also been giving directions. At one point is seemed like an "Are you sure you want me to take your van down a road with this many potholes?" conversation took place.
Lest you think we spend all of our Jamaican time in a sandwich haze, it too has its time and place. We both really wanted to remember the details of this experience and that is more easily achieved with a clear head. Other than a Red Stripe when we arrived at Mayfield falls, we were teetotallers that afternoon.
As we traveled along the narrow ridge of a mountain top on a road that was not more than two paved tire tracks half of which were washed out I wondered what mystic forces had conspired to bring me here. The mountains were forests of palms, flowering trees and bamboo. Simple homes on sturdy bamboo slits clung to hill sides pitched so steep I didn't know how I'd even stand on them. This was everything I had hoped to see and somehow more. I couldn't quite believe that this road was taking me to a spring fed, tropical mountain stream that I was going to get to walk up. I have no pictures of the drive. We were too busy just taking it all in.
When we arrived at Mayfield Falls, Robert parked in the upper lot and walked down the hill with us.
We paid our entrance fee and bought a round of beer for Robert and ourselves and then we were introduced to our guide Dennis. He showed us to the lockers and change facilities. I had water shoes, but Sunshine needed to rent a pair. I believe they were $6 to rent. I only had a $10 bill and shop keeper didn't have change. "I'll have change when you come back," she says. Hmmm, I wonder how many people actually collect on that.
It was low season and as we were the only ones there, we were getting a private tour. Once we were ready we met the last member of our little party. Andy we would be our photographer. Knowing they did the photos along the walk was part of why I choose Mayfield Falls. We got home from Negril last year with exactly one picture of the two of us, which was a selfie of us bobbing in the sea. I figured even on an off day we were likely to do better than that here.
It is a bit of walk from the start of the trail to the actual river, but it is not very taxing. It gives you a chance to look across the valley.
Dennis pointed out various interesting plants along the way. Coming from a place that becomes a frozen wasteland each winter, I am fascinated by things that grow in places where they thrive all year round. At one point, he pulled out a cocoa bean pod and gave us each a couple of the nibs. The white flesh around the nib was sweet and almost gelatinous. The nib was bitter: very, very bitter. It was so cool to be able to try it.
We reached where we would enter the river and headed down the hill.
The river is spring fed and cool but not at all cold. You can feel the mineral content, it is almost like softened water. The river walk takes you up a series of small waterfalls. Each has its own character. There are opportunities for massage.
The swimmers answer to a tread mill. Dennis dared us to swim all the way to the far side of the pool, but the current is actually too strong that close to the falls. Its force ebbs away pretty quickly, so you aren't really in any danger of being swept away.
I could have laid here all day. It felt like the river was playing with my hair and the sound of it just below my ears was magic. All under the canopy of giant bamboo stands and trees I couldn't hope to name.
There were hidden nooks behind the falls.
I have to say that Dennis was awesome at guiding me through the whole experience. I am not the most coordinate person and can be a bit unsteady on my feet in the best circumstances. His descriptions of what was happening under the water gave me the confidence to keep stepping boldly. When I missed he had a firm grip and pulled me along in spite of myself.
He and Andy made a great team. It was like a well rehearsed dance. Dennis would be directing us this way at that and then all of a sudden he'd be pointing a direction and there would be Andy up a hill side or on a rock or in a tree ready to take our picture. Getting us to smile was not a challenge.
that's a very smart move cherry, using the time between hotels for a trip . . .enjoying it all . . .
Thanks for this report Cherry. Would Mayfield be appropriate with six and nine year old daughters?
Loved Mayfield! The guides there are wonderful! Keeping everyone upright and safe, your camera dry, and taking pics the whole way! Thanks for sharing this!
Cherry and others can weigh in, but I would probably say no, at least to walk the whole falls area. It's a bit of a workout climbing some of the falls, at least for a six year old. Although I am proud to say my 70 year old Mom made it! The kids will certainly enjoy playing in some of the falls, though, even if they don't walk the whole way. And it is gorgeous, as well as a pretty drive through the country. So I will change my answer to a solid maybe.Originally Posted by Oncedeported
look at that GRIN on Sunshine! glad to know you got out and about --- now i know why you didn't answer me before --- you DID get a private driver and hang out! Woot woot!
my son climbed Dunn's at 6 alone - well he climbed with another group while i took pics from the side (bad mommy lol) --- kids are more nimble and have less distance to fall down --- sounds like it could be just the exhausting day every kid needs --- don't forget there's YSL Falls too
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