If you love Jamaica let me see your hand - A Trip Report

[CherryNorth49]

At one point, you can actually swim between the levels of the falls in a series of tunnels. Sunshine was totally game.

It looked like a really cool experience. I was caught up in the moment and just like that I was announcing that I wanted to do it too. I should know better. I didn't have any swim goggles with me and I don't love having my eyes open under water. Dennis explains what is going on down there and with a deep breath I go down. I push forward and as soon as I encounter the darkness of the tunnel I panic. The smart answer would have been to keep moving forward, but panic and smart aren't often used in the same sentence. Instead I try to back out the way I came all while trying to surface. Rather predictably, this resulted in my head meeting the rock with a rather alarming amount of force.

Dennis had at one point explained that all the guides were trained lifeguards. When I emerged sputtering from the water I felt like I was in good hands. He wasn't happy jovial Dennis, he was lifeguard Dennis and until he was satisfied that I hadn't hurt my head or neck, he was in charge. It was all pretty reassuring. Being mostly embarrassed at having done it, I was eager to just move on. He offered to go through the tunnel with me, but I'd had all of that kind of fun I was going to have that day.

Not to about to let minor head trauma interfere, when we got to the next pool I was eager to jump right in.

There was more adventurous perch, but based on my love of ladders and heights, I sure as heck wouldn't be headed up. Sunshine was in his element. Someone said cannonball and that was all the urging he needed.

[CherryNorth49]

Another group had caught up with us at this point. We'd kind of been dallying along. At the top of the falls is the washing machine, the largest falls on this stretch and the top of the river walk. The water is just pounding down. It is pretty awesome.

We posed for the penultimate photo op and then had a few minutes on our own.

I did not want to get out of the water, but our time was done. I certainly never felt rushed in the tour, but I figure we had dragged the experience out as long as humanly possible. Andy disappeared to get on making photo magic and we took the slow jaunt back to the start.

It was along this walk that I have my only complaint about the whole experience. Our guide started up with the subtle sob story. I know he works for tips and I had factored that into my costs for the excursion. We planned to treat him very fairly for his time. What I didn't need at that was a lesson in how expensive things were for Jamaicans and how they were barely surviving. These are things I do want to here, but educating me wasn't his purpose. This was a poorly veiled attempt to guilt me out of my money. It made me want to give less, not more. But we didn't. Those five minutes of conversation did not undo the magic spell cast by the river.

We arrived and after changing walked back to the shop where we had rented Sunshine's shoes. Turns out it was the photo shop as well. We went back into Andy's office. I did a bit of a double take as I just didn't expect to encounter the widescreen Dell setup in the tin roofed cottage in the jungle.

I'd planned to buy the pictures all along and I was really happy with what I saw. Now we just had to negotiate the price. Andy directed us back to the lady out front. She started at $35. I my mind I had planned to pay $30, but I wanted to give $10 of it to Andy directly, as he was the guy who'd spent the time doing the work. So we start our little back and forth.

"$35! No, no, no, I'm not paying $35."

"Okay, for you a special deal, $30."

Well that was too easy. She clearly still sees me as an easy mark.

"You know all I have is a $20 bill. I will give you $20 right now and we have a deal."

"No, no, no, I can't do it for $20."

"Well a $20 is all I have, as I don't seem to have any change. That is the best I can do."

Her eyes squinted at me a bit at that point. We both know I'm talking about the change she didn't have for me when we rented to shoes. In a rather resigned tone, she agreed to the $20 and sent Andy back to burn the CD.

I followed along for one more look, as we wouldn't see the pictures again until we got home to a computer. He handed me the CD and I handed him a $10, "Thanks for taking such great pictures." His face split into the biggest, sincerest grin. He'd done his job well and not asked for thing; he'd earned it. After all the wonder of the day, that might be the moment I cherish most.

We got a curt goodbye from the women on the way out of the shop. We passed by one last time on our way out about 10 minutes later. She was sitting on the porch with Andy and we got a big wave and warm smile, with a shouted, "Hope to see you again!"

The walk back up the hill to the van almost killed me. We found Robert sitting under a tree, playing dominos with a couple of other taxi drivers. We told him to finish his game as we admired the country side.

We didn't drive out the way we drove in. I was starting to wonder if I had lost my mind when nothing seemed familiar. This route took us through Sav-le-Mar. I hadn't been joking about not having any change. I needed a bank machine and was planning on going to the RBC ATM near the roundabout in Negril. Robert knew where the RBC branch was in Sav and as it has a machine as well, he took us there instead.

I wish I had taken a picture of the sign posted on the locked door to the bank machine. "Closed Tuesdays from 3:00-3:30." It is of course Tuesday and it is 3:02. We went back to the van and said as much to Robert. He couldn't believe it so got out to check on it himself. He rattled door enough to have the security guard wander around the corner and confirm that yes indeed, the bank machine was closed. What are the chances?

We'd both expressed on a couple of occasions how much we enjoyed visiting his country. As we were passing through a more residential district, Robert asked me if I would want to live in Jamaica. I had to pause. I went with an honest response. "I don't actually know if I would. I don't think I know Jamaica well enough to answer that yet. Living someplace is very different that being a visitor."

He seemed to take my answer in stride. Kingsley called again to see how our return journey had been. We were happy with our trip with Robert and I told him so.

Before I knew it we were back in Negril. With a stop at the ATM and another at Shamrock's our excursion for the day was done. We'd move to a hotel only 8km away from where we started and had taken more than five hours to do it. We headed into CocoLaPalm to get checked in and hopefully down to the beach in time for the sunset.

[CherryNorth49]

look at that GRIN on Sunshine! glad to know you got out and about --- now i know why you didn't answer me before --- you DID get a private driver and hang out! Woot woot!

That is exactly it. I didn't want to give it away

I am looking forward to doing a more of it this trip.

[CherryNorth49]

Thanks for this report Cherry. Would Mayfield be appropriate with six and nine year old daughters?

I want to say yes, because it would be a magic experience at those ages. I would say you were good for sure with the 9 year. For a 6 year old, I think it very much depends on the kid. Some kids seem to be part monkey - that type of child would be in their element. I think it would be important that she be confident in the water and a decent swimmer. You could join my swim team in the development program starting at age 5. There were certainly 5 year olds in that group that I would have no qualms about taking on the walk. There were a couple of times where Dennis was practically lifting me up the falls. His task would have been much simpler with a child. He actually could just lift them over the more challenging parts.

I hope that helps!

[CherryNorth49]

Here's some of our friends, who we regularly keep in contact with. First of all Garnett, who we met at Couples Negril about 6 years ago. Now we go to their home on top road in Little London. Wife Camesha, daughters Colleen & Carla {who we met when she was just 2 months old} plus we also know some of Garnett's neighbors. Like Clifton, miss Cherry, Rasta Donnie. Paul Sundal, the amazing singing bartender from Club Riu. Carron, at the guard shack at Coco, and of course Lenbert! Lenbert for president! I'm thinking I'm missing somebody.. But , yeah the friends made and to be made are to be treasured and fun! Like Jimmy Cliff said "We all are one" or Bob "One love".. Let's see, as I'm looking at the Calendar.... we are at 17 days. soon come. Oh, I forgot Clive & Judith & children Stacy, mickey, collette & prince. You'll see Clive & Judith's "Cold Beer joint" on the left side of the road, before the bridge on the road to Sav. Stop in, they'd love to see ya. Respect mon'

Hey Farmer, that is a perfect example of the difference between 10 trips and 2. I hope 8 more visits from now, we'll have our own list!

[Jim-Donna]

Yea CocoLa Palm. SWEET! Your river walk pictures are So Nice!

[Seveen]

love your negotiation skills --- I've learned to use them every where --- Sears, Home Depot, supermarket ---- one of the best things Jamaica has taught me --- HIGGLE!

[justchuck]

This report is provoking me to book, damn it!

Your report certainly inspired me to book. I have been travelling to Negril for years but have always travelled during the off season. I have been increasingly curious about a trip at either Christmas or New Years. Well, this week I booked us a trip over New Years. Let the countdown begin!

[shell]

Loving your report! So much so that I"m starting to regret going go Barbados this December instead of our usual Negril trip. I knew I would miss going to Negril but its starting to be painful! May just have to find a way to get back sooner! Keep posting.. I"ll suffer through it.

[CherryNorth49]

Chapter 10

“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
― Benjamin Franklin

We arrived at CocoLaPalm and they were expecting us. For the first time in the trip, someone wanted to see some ID and get my credit card information. I needed to put $100 deposit down for 'incidentals' which would be refunded at the end of the trip if we hadn't used it. I have a foot note on that detail. Other than at Catcha, we were paying in cash everywhere, including Coco; it keeps spending under control. When we checked out, they refunded the deposit. However, exchange rates weren't going our way and by the time my credit card had its fees, we were out $19. So minor really, but if I had known that was going to happen, I would have spent $100 at the bar rather than paying cash for our Red Stripe.

Check in was a breeze and the porter showed us to our room. I had been disappointed I wasn't able to book a junior suite but as it turns out I needn't have been, because we ended up in one anyway. Yippee! Seriously, this room is huge. It is a big octagon, with a beautiful double vaulted wooden ceiling. The two queen beds couldn't have taken up 20% of the floor space. There was table for four, a couch and a big wet bar. The bathroom had a big open closet, double sinks with something like five feet of counter between them and a double shower. You could practically park a car in the bathroom and still get ready in the morning. The balcony was huge, with a table and four chairs and two loungers. We were towards the street side of the property, overlooking the Coco fountain. The fountain made great white noise, so we didn't really hear the street. The greenery in the centre of that section of the property is so lush. I was totally in love.

We did make it down to the beach in time for sunset.

It was another winner, at least from the beach.

Given these clouds, I don't know how the view would have been on the West End. Looks like we moved just in time!

If you are ever looking for me in Negril, if it is around sunset I can reliably be found facing west just taking it all in. Which was exactly were Mamade11 found us. We swapped stories of the day and she suggested perhaps later we might share a few beverages around the hot tub a little later. We agreed to the concept. We each went our own way for dinner. We'd been in Negril for six days and hadn't had any barrel jerk yet, so our plan was to head across the street to Best in the West.